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Old 28th February 2011, 04:44 PM   #1
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Default HELP! New subwoofer install with mono amp

Ok so Im not new to car audio really but new at installing.

I have a BMW X5 with the standard system.

Sub= I am adding a 10" shallow mount MB Quart RLP 254 (300 watt rms 600 watt max) sub wired in parallel at 2 ohms.

Amp= Using a Kicker mono zx300.1 (300 watt rms)

Line Output Converter= Using a Hi-Fonics MX-4 to splice into the factory speakers in the rear to get a low signal to the amp.

Deck= Stock thus the Line Converter

My problem is Im not getting sound out of the woofer. The amp is getting power because the light is on, But the remote feature on the amp has 3 modes 12v,DC,Audio well it does not turn on the standard 12v method but does on the others, Also when I turn the volume up loud I do hear a slight low toned humm from the sub if I put my hear to it.

Any Ideas?

Thanks
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Old 28th February 2011, 07:35 PM   #2
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If you disconnect the speaker wires from one voice coil of the sub, does the speaker produce audio?

Have you measured the AC voltage across the RCAs feeding the amp to see if there was any signal?
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Old 28th February 2011, 07:48 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Perry Babin View Post
If you disconnect the speaker wires from one voice coil of the sub, does the speaker produce audio?

Have you measured the AC voltage across the RCAs feeding the amp to see if there was any signal?
I really dont have the tools to measure the AC voltage or even know what volts the RCA should be...

You think my parallel sub wiring could be the problem?
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Old 28th February 2011, 07:56 PM   #4
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If you have ONE voice coil wired with reverse polarity (backwards), it could cause the symptoms you described.
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Old 28th February 2011, 08:41 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Perry Babin View Post
If you have ONE voice coil wired with reverse polarity (backwards), it could cause the symptoms you described.
I used this diagram

4ohm to 2ohm

Rockford Fosgate® - Woofer WiringWizard
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Old 4th March 2011, 04:17 AM   #6
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1) What year is the X5?

2) Temporarily jumper the permanent +12V to the turn-on input of the amp-does that do the trick? If so, you don't have an ignition lead (which doesn't exist in a lot of cars any more since they use the computer bus instead).

3) Never mind the wiring diagram, the suggestion to disconnect one coil will make sure there isn't a wiring mistake. Try with each coil connected by itself.

4) Does the sub play connected to your home stereo (never mind how it sounds, even you can take it out of the box, just want to see if sound comes out)? Be sure the sub itself hasn't fried or something.
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