shorting fets lanzar 1200d

transformers · 11th February 2011, 12:52 AM

hey guys i need some help with my amp. i have a lanzar 1200d monoblock amp. it had a shorted output inductor and DC voltage on the speaker terminals. so i got both inductors and output fets and put them in. but when i powered up the amp with a 5 amp fuse sometimes it would blow it and sometimes it wouldnt. so now im powering it up with a car headlight, but if i leave it on to long sometimes it blows output fets. theres 15v DC on the speaker terminals, after the relay clicks on it starts beeping real low like an alarm watch going off and the car headlight is really bright. the amp is drawing alot of amps, more than 5 amps i guess from the fuse blowing and the car headlight is real bright. but i dont have anything to measure exactly.
if i remove the 2 output fets closest to the inductor i replaced that had shorted, the amp starts fine no amp draw and no DC voltage on speaker terminals. and the car headlight is real dim
i do not have a camera or scope, all i have is a digital multimeter. this is my first repair attempt, THANKS TO TUBENUT for all of his help.
here are some measurements i took everything is in DC. with the 2 output fets removed i got tired of shorting fets like 7 so far, i guess the excess amperage is shorting them?

for the output fets im measureing from right to left, right being where the output inductors are. there are 8 fets
IRF2807
DRAIN HOLE for 2 removed fets is 52.7

G- 0.0V
D- -0.3V
S- -0.3V

G- 0.0V
D- -0.3V
S- -0.3V

G- 9.9V
D- 0.0V
S- -0.3V

G- 9.9V
D- 0.0V
S- -0.3V

G- 0.2V
D- 52.7V
S- 0.0V

G- 0.2V
D- 52.7V
S- 0.0V
NEXT TO THESE 8 FETS THERE IS KIA7812A THESE ARE ITS NUMBERS

G- 16.6V
D- -0.3V
S- 11.4V

NEXT TO THIS KIA ARE 3 DIODES YG225C2 THEY ALL MEASURE THE SAME

G- -0.3V
D- 52.7V
S- -0.3V

ON THE OPPOSITE SIDE OF THESE OUTPUT FETS ARE THE POWER SUPPLY FETS IRFZ44N
THERE ARE TEN AND THEY ALL MEASURE THE SAME
G- 2.6V
D- 10.1V
S- 0.0V

THE CONTROLLER FOR THE AMP IS HIP4080
PIN 1 = 11.4V
PIN 2 = 11.4V
PIN 3 = -0.3V
PIN 4 = -0.3V
PIN 5 = 0.0V
PIN 6 = 5.5V
PIN 7 = 8.3V
PIN 8 = 4.8V
PIN 9 = 4.8V
PIN 10 = 11.3V
PIN 11 = 0.3V
PIN 12 = 0.0V
PIN 13 = 10.6V
PIN 14 = -0.3V
PIN 15 = 11.4V
PIN 16 = 11.4V
PIN 17 = -0.3V
PIN 18 = 0.0V
PIN 19 = -0.3V
PIN 20 = 11.0V

TL494
PIN 1 = 2.9V
PIN 2 = 3.4V
PIN 3 = 0.0V
PIN 4 = -0.0V
PIN 5 = 1.4V
PIN 6 = 3.5V
PIN 7 = -0.0V
PIN 8 = 9.8V
PIN 9 = 2.6V
PIN 10 = 2.6V
PIN 11 = 9.8V
PIN 12 = 7.4V
PIN 13 = 4.8V
PIN 14 = 4.8V
PIN 15 = 3.9V
PIN 16 = 1.8V

both output inductors have 0 volts on both legs, i guess that the 2 fets i removed supply them power, and the problem is somewhere in that section because without them the amp powers up fine. and i get -0.3v DC on pos. speaker terminal and 0v on the neg. terminal.
any help with why these fets keep shorting?
amp is pulling to much amps?
why theres 15v DC on speakers terminals?
the fets are all new and good i checked them each. with perrys checking n-channel fets method

heres the amp
Lanzar Vibe 1200D inside - Amp Guts

Perry Babin · 11th February 2011, 12:27 PM

Are you sure that the top 2 2807s aren't shorted from leg 2-3?

Everything else looks about right but with missing components, it's difficult to be definitive.

What work have you done to the amp so far?

transformers · 11th February 2011, 02:29 PM

the top 2 were brand new out of the box fets.
what happened was i ordered the output fets and put them in, i didnt have the output inductors yet and was using 47k resistors in their place.
but there was little pinholes in the kapton tape and it would short fets on start up, after shorting 3 fets i noticed the holes, and fixed the tape.
but at that time i was short on fets so i use the 2 old ones. amp powered up fine with resistors in place and i had 0 DC on speaker terminals.

so then i received the new inductors, and i put them in, but the inductor that i replaced that was shorted was getting warm, and i was getting 1.5v DC on the speaker terminals. if i connected a speaker to it the DC would jump to 12v DC. and the sound that came out of the speaker sounding like when you have ground noise in a car.
so i thought maybe it was the 2 old fets i had to use, i ordered new fets. and now its going crazy like it says above.
im afraid of putting in the 2 fets because its drawing alot of amps and shorting random fets.

Perry Babin · 11th February 2011, 03:26 PM

When it was randomly killing the FETs, was the 4080 in the circuit?

transformers · 11th February 2011, 05:40 PM

the 4080 has always been in all i did to this amp was remove the output fets, and 2 inductors, and 4 blue capacitors and 1 white resistor near the inductor that were covered in soot, checked everything for continuity then put them back in
the resistor is a 3.3 ohm and it checks ohm good (3.3), but when i check it for continuity my meter beeps, like when the 2 probes are touching is that normal?

ok i put in 2 old fets i had, (the ones that i originally removed from this amp, that tested good)
its doing the same thing like it did with the new fets that were in.
relay is still beeping like an alarm watch beep---beep---beep
car headlight is still real bright
but no output fets shorted this time, and i had it on for 10 min.
im getting 13v DC to 15v DC on both pos and neg speaker terminals.

here are some measurements i took everything is in DC. with the 2 old but good output fets put in. when the measurements say 13.6v to 15.6v it means the meter is fluctuating between these numbers

for both output inductors im getting 13v to 15.7v on both inside and outside legs.
for the output fets im measuring from right to left, right being where the output inductors are. there are 8 fets
IRF2807

G- 16v to 20v
D- 31v to 32v
S- 13.6v to 15.6v

G- 16v to 20v
D- 31v to 32v
S- 13.6v to 15.6v

G- 2.5v to 3.2v
D- 13.5v to 16v
S- -0.1V

G- 2.5v to 3.2v
D- 13.5v to 16v
S- -0.1V

G- 2.5v to 3.2v
D- 13.5v to 16v
S- -0.1V

G- 2.5v to 3.2v
D- 13.5v to 16v
S- -0.1V

G- 16v to 20v
D- 31v to 32v
S- 13.6v to 15.6v

G- 16v to 20v
D- 31v to 32v
S- 13.6v to 15.6v

NEXT TO THESE 8 FETS THERE IS KIA7812A THESE ARE ITS NUMBERS

G- 9.8V
D- -0.1V
S- 8.3V

NEXT TO THIS KIA ARE 3 DIODES YG225C2 THEY ALL MEASURE THE SAME

G- -0.1V
D- 31v to 32v
S- -0.1V

ON THE OPPOSITE SIDE OF THESE OUTPUT FETS ARE THE POWER SUPPLY FETS IRFZ44N
THERE ARE TEN AND THEY ALL MEASURE THE SAME
G- 1.8V
D- 7.9V
S- 0.0V

THE CONTROLLER FOR THE AMP IS HIP4080
PIN 1 = 20v to 25v
PIN 2 = 8.3V
PIN 3 = -0.1V
PIN 4 = -0.1V
PIN 5 = 4v to 5v
PIN 6 = 5.4V
PIN 7 = 4.6v to 5.5v
PIN 8 = 4.9V
PIN 9 = 4.9V
PIN 10 = 20v to 23.4v
PIN 11 = 16v to 19.1v
PIN 12 = 13v to 15.7v
PIN 13 = 2.9v to 3.6v
PIN 14 = -0.1V
PIN 15 = 8.3V to 8.9v
PIN 16 = 8.3v
PIN 17 = -0.1V
PIN 18 = 2.8v to 3.6v
PIN 19 = 13v to 15.6v
PIN 20 = 16V to 20v

TL494
PIN 1 = 1.8V
PIN 2 = 3.2V
PIN 3 = 0.0V
PIN 4 = -0.0V
PIN 5 = 1.2V
PIN 6 = 3.2V
PIN 7 = -0.0V
PIN 8 = 7.7V
PIN 9 = 1.8V
PIN 10 = 1.8V
PIN 11 = 7.7V
PIN 12 = 5.5V
PIN 13 = 4.5V
PIN 14 = 4.5V
PIN 15 = 3.8V
PIN 16 = 1.7V

Perry Babin · 11th February 2011, 05:48 PM

When the outputs fail, the 4080 virtually always fails. Did you replace the 4080 when you replaced the outputs?

Touching the probes across a 3.3 ohm resistor will make most meters beep continuously (if the meter is designed to beep when set to continuity or diode check).

transformers · 08:31 PM

no i didnt replace the 4080, is there some sort of way to test it?
if i have to replace it does it pull out or do i have to cut it ?
does mouser sell them its a hip4080aip? i cant find it

Perry Babin · 11th February 2011, 08:44 PM

There's really no way of testing it without installing it in another amp but that's risky.

Most are in sockets and pull out.

Digikey has them:
Digi-Key - HIP4080AIP-ND (Manufacturer - HIP4080AIP)

What impedance is the speaker load you're driving with this amp?

transformers · 12th February 2011, 12:35 AM

well this was my brothers amp he had two alpine type s dvc 4 ohm speakers. i think he set the gain to high and one speaker stopped working. there was smoke and i guess it shorted.
then he had a 4 ohm svc laying around and put that in. and i think the speaker would thump when you powered up the amp(bad output fets), but he kept using it like that. then the amp died(shorted output inductor red protect light stayed on), it was laying in a closet for 3 years, now im trying to fix it.

can you pair a dvc 4 ohm speaker (2ohm load) on left side of speaker terminals pos and neg,and 4 ohm svc on the other side (pos and neg)?
thats like a 1.5 ohm load i guess? but its not an even 1.5 on the amp because there two different manafacturer speakers?

oh it looks like its in a socket the 4080, but how do i pull it out? with some pliers?

and thanks for the link i really appreciate it

mbates14 · 12th February 2011, 04:40 AM

i usually use a jewlers flathead screwdriver. and wedge it between socket and IC. gently pry up. then you can grab it out of there.

other thing to do is take a pair of tweezers and bend the ends 90 degrees and slip them under the IC, pull up. and out :-)

11th February 2011, 12:52 AM	#1
transformers diyAudio Member Join Date: Dec 2010	shorting fets lanzar 1200d hey guys i need some help with my amp. i have a lanzar 1200d monoblock amp. it had a shorted output inductor and DC voltage on the speaker terminals. so i got both inductors and output fets and put them in. but when i powered up the amp with a 5 amp fuse sometimes it would blow it and sometimes it wouldnt. so now im powering it up with a car headlight, but if i leave it on to long sometimes it blows output fets. theres 15v DC on the speaker terminals, after the relay clicks on it starts beeping real low like an alarm watch going off and the car headlight is really bright. the amp is drawing alot of amps, more than 5 amps i guess from the fuse blowing and the car headlight is real bright. but i dont have anything to measure exactly. if i remove the 2 output fets closest to the inductor i replaced that had shorted, the amp starts fine no amp draw and no DC voltage on speaker terminals. and the car headlight is real dim i do not have a camera or scope, all i have is a digital multimeter. this is my first repair attempt, THANKS TO TUBENUT for all of his help. here are some measurements i took everything is in DC. with the 2 output fets removed i got tired of shorting fets like 7 so far, i guess the excess amperage is shorting them? for the output fets im measureing from right to left, right being where the output inductors are. there are 8 fets IRF2807 DRAIN HOLE for 2 removed fets is 52.7 G- 0.0V D- -0.3V S- -0.3V G- 0.0V D- -0.3V S- -0.3V G- 9.9V D- 0.0V S- -0.3V G- 9.9V D- 0.0V S- -0.3V G- 0.2V D- 52.7V S- 0.0V G- 0.2V D- 52.7V S- 0.0V NEXT TO THESE 8 FETS THERE IS KIA7812A THESE ARE ITS NUMBERS G- 16.6V D- -0.3V S- 11.4V NEXT TO THIS KIA ARE 3 DIODES YG225C2 THEY ALL MEASURE THE SAME G- -0.3V D- 52.7V S- -0.3V ON THE OPPOSITE SIDE OF THESE OUTPUT FETS ARE THE POWER SUPPLY FETS IRFZ44N THERE ARE TEN AND THEY ALL MEASURE THE SAME G- 2.6V D- 10.1V S- 0.0V THE CONTROLLER FOR THE AMP IS HIP4080 PIN 1 = 11.4V PIN 2 = 11.4V PIN 3 = -0.3V PIN 4 = -0.3V PIN 5 = 0.0V PIN 6 = 5.5V PIN 7 = 8.3V PIN 8 = 4.8V PIN 9 = 4.8V PIN 10 = 11.3V PIN 11 = 0.3V PIN 12 = 0.0V PIN 13 = 10.6V PIN 14 = -0.3V PIN 15 = 11.4V PIN 16 = 11.4V PIN 17 = -0.3V PIN 18 = 0.0V PIN 19 = -0.3V PIN 20 = 11.0V TL494 PIN 1 = 2.9V PIN 2 = 3.4V PIN 3 = 0.0V PIN 4 = -0.0V PIN 5 = 1.4V PIN 6 = 3.5V PIN 7 = -0.0V PIN 8 = 9.8V PIN 9 = 2.6V PIN 10 = 2.6V PIN 11 = 9.8V PIN 12 = 7.4V PIN 13 = 4.8V PIN 14 = 4.8V PIN 15 = 3.9V PIN 16 = 1.8V both output inductors have 0 volts on both legs, i guess that the 2 fets i removed supply them power, and the problem is somewhere in that section because without them the amp powers up fine. and i get -0.3v DC on pos. speaker terminal and 0v on the neg. terminal. any help with why these fets keep shorting? amp is pulling to much amps? why theres 15v DC on speakers terminals? the fets are all new and good i checked them each. with perrys checking n-channel fets method heres the amp Lanzar Vibe 1200D inside - Amp Guts

11th February 2011, 12:27 PM	#2
Perry Babin diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Louisiana	Are you sure that the top 2 2807s aren't shorted from leg 2-3? Everything else looks about right but with missing components, it's difficult to be definitive. What work have you done to the amp so far? __________________ Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links

11th February 2011, 03:26 PM	#4
Perry Babin diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Louisiana	When it was randomly killing the FETs, was the 4080 in the circuit? __________________ Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links

11th February 2011, 05:48 PM	#6
Perry Babin diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Louisiana	When the outputs fail, the 4080 virtually always fails. Did you replace the 4080 when you replaced the outputs? Touching the probes across a 3.3 ohm resistor will make most meters beep continuously (if the meter is designed to beep when set to continuity or diode check). __________________ Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links

11th February 2011, 08:27 PM	#7
transformers diyAudio Member Join Date: Dec 2010	no i didnt replace the 4080, is there some sort of way to test it? if i have to replace it does it pull out or do i have to cut it ? does mouser sell them its a hip4080aip? i cant find it Last edited by transformers; 11th February 2011 at 08:31 PM.


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11th February 2011, 02:29 PM	#3
transformers diyAudio Member Join Date: Dec 2010	the top 2 were brand new out of the box fets. what happened was i ordered the output fets and put them in, i didnt have the output inductors yet and was using 47k resistors in their place. but there was little pinholes in the kapton tape and it would short fets on start up, after shorting 3 fets i noticed the holes, and fixed the tape. but at that time i was short on fets so i use the 2 old ones. amp powered up fine with resistors in place and i had 0 DC on speaker terminals. so then i received the new inductors, and i put them in, but the inductor that i replaced that was shorted was getting warm, and i was getting 1.5v DC on the speaker terminals. if i connected a speaker to it the DC would jump to 12v DC. and the sound that came out of the speaker sounding like when you have ground noise in a car. so i thought maybe it was the 2 old fets i had to use, i ordered new fets. and now its going crazy like it says above. im afraid of putting in the 2 fets because its drawing alot of amps and shorting random fets.

11th February 2011, 05:40 PM	#5
transformers diyAudio Member Join Date: Dec 2010	the 4080 has always been in all i did to this amp was remove the output fets, and 2 inductors, and 4 blue capacitors and 1 white resistor near the inductor that were covered in soot, checked everything for continuity then put them back in the resistor is a 3.3 ohm and it checks ohm good (3.3), but when i check it for continuity my meter beeps, like when the 2 probes are touching is that normal? ok i put in 2 old fets i had, (the ones that i originally removed from this amp, that tested good) its doing the same thing like it did with the new fets that were in. relay is still beeping like an alarm watch beep---beep---beep car headlight is still real bright but no output fets shorted this time, and i had it on for 10 min. im getting 13v DC to 15v DC on both pos and neg speaker terminals. here are some measurements i took everything is in DC. with the 2 old but good output fets put in. when the measurements say 13.6v to 15.6v it means the meter is fluctuating between these numbers for both output inductors im getting 13v to 15.7v on both inside and outside legs. for the output fets im measuring from right to left, right being where the output inductors are. there are 8 fets IRF2807 G- 16v to 20v D- 31v to 32v S- 13.6v to 15.6v G- 16v to 20v D- 31v to 32v S- 13.6v to 15.6v G- 2.5v to 3.2v D- 13.5v to 16v S- -0.1V G- 2.5v to 3.2v D- 13.5v to 16v S- -0.1V G- 2.5v to 3.2v D- 13.5v to 16v S- -0.1V G- 2.5v to 3.2v D- 13.5v to 16v S- -0.1V G- 16v to 20v D- 31v to 32v S- 13.6v to 15.6v G- 16v to 20v D- 31v to 32v S- 13.6v to 15.6v NEXT TO THESE 8 FETS THERE IS KIA7812A THESE ARE ITS NUMBERS G- 9.8V D- -0.1V S- 8.3V NEXT TO THIS KIA ARE 3 DIODES YG225C2 THEY ALL MEASURE THE SAME G- -0.1V D- 31v to 32v S- -0.1V ON THE OPPOSITE SIDE OF THESE OUTPUT FETS ARE THE POWER SUPPLY FETS IRFZ44N THERE ARE TEN AND THEY ALL MEASURE THE SAME G- 1.8V D- 7.9V S- 0.0V THE CONTROLLER FOR THE AMP IS HIP4080 PIN 1 = 20v to 25v PIN 2 = 8.3V PIN 3 = -0.1V PIN 4 = -0.1V PIN 5 = 4v to 5v PIN 6 = 5.4V PIN 7 = 4.6v to 5.5v PIN 8 = 4.9V PIN 9 = 4.9V PIN 10 = 20v to 23.4v PIN 11 = 16v to 19.1v PIN 12 = 13v to 15.7v PIN 13 = 2.9v to 3.6v PIN 14 = -0.1V PIN 15 = 8.3V to 8.9v PIN 16 = 8.3v PIN 17 = -0.1V PIN 18 = 2.8v to 3.6v PIN 19 = 13v to 15.6v PIN 20 = 16V to 20v TL494 PIN 1 = 1.8V PIN 2 = 3.2V PIN 3 = 0.0V PIN 4 = -0.0V PIN 5 = 1.2V PIN 6 = 3.2V PIN 7 = -0.0V PIN 8 = 7.7V PIN 9 = 1.8V PIN 10 = 1.8V PIN 11 = 7.7V PIN 12 = 5.5V PIN 13 = 4.5V PIN 14 = 4.5V PIN 15 = 3.8V PIN 16 = 1.7V

11th February 2011, 08:44 PM	#8
Perry Babin diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Louisiana	There's really no way of testing it without installing it in another amp but that's risky. Most are in sockets and pull out. Digikey has them: Digi-Key - HIP4080AIP-ND (Manufacturer - HIP4080AIP) What impedance is the speaker load you're driving with this amp? __________________ Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links

12th February 2011, 12:35 AM	#9
transformers diyAudio Member Join Date: Dec 2010	well this was my brothers amp he had two alpine type s dvc 4 ohm speakers. i think he set the gain to high and one speaker stopped working. there was smoke and i guess it shorted. then he had a 4 ohm svc laying around and put that in. and i think the speaker would thump when you powered up the amp(bad output fets), but he kept using it like that. then the amp died(shorted output inductor red protect light stayed on), it was laying in a closet for 3 years, now im trying to fix it. can you pair a dvc 4 ohm speaker (2ohm load) on left side of speaker terminals pos and neg,and 4 ohm svc on the other side (pos and neg)? thats like a 1.5 ohm load i guess? but its not an even 1.5 on the amp because there two different manafacturer speakers? oh it looks like its in a socket the 4080, but how do i pull it out? with some pliers? and thanks for the link i really appreciate it

12th February 2011, 04:40 AM	#10
mbates14 diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: non	i usually use a jewlers flathead screwdriver. and wedge it between socket and IC. gently pry up. then you can grab it out of there. other thing to do is take a pair of tweezers and bend the ends 90 degrees and slip them under the IC, pull up. and out :-)

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