Duh
Really Bill? I couldn't have figured that out. Now either you're really cocky or you don't know anything. So if you do know what volume I need then you could be helpful and tell me. If not, try to find someone eles who uses this board for something other than what it was meant for. Thank You.
Really Bill? I couldn't have figured that out. Now either you're really cocky or you don't know anything. So if you do know what volume I need then you could be helpful and tell me. If not, try to find someone eles who uses this board for something other than what it was meant for. Thank You.
Re: Duh
Don't mind Bill... sometimes he comes off as a cranky old guy, but he is quite knowledgable and we love him.
What kind of speakers are they? Brand, model? Any specs at all?
Car speakers usually don't come with specs, and if you can't measure them there are some approaches to cabinet building, which thou they may not be optimum, will give you a good shot under limited circumstances.
dave
Drivetime said:
Don't mind Bill... sometimes he comes off as a cranky old guy, but he is quite knowledgable and we love him.
What kind of speakers are they? Brand, model? Any specs at all?
Car speakers usually don't come with specs, and if you can't measure them there are some approaches to cabinet building, which thou they may not be optimum, will give you a good shot under limited circumstances.
dave
Drivetime said:
Generally these are designed to sit in the back deck & have the trunk as a box so they like a big box. Bigger than you are likely to be able to build & live with.
So my recipe would be: 1/ build as large a box as you can get away with. 2/ drill a number of small closely spaced hole (with a total area of say a third the Sd of the speaker. Damp these "ports" with some compressed fiberglass insulation. The fancy way to do it is to rebate the area where the holes are (say 3/8" if you are using 3/4" material). Then take some fiberglass (as per the example 2" thick), compress it into the rebate, and hold it down with some of the plastic eaves-trough mesh. (This works best if the holes are in a long narrow configuration). Tuning is by increasing or decreasing the damping or the total area of the holes.
What is happening is that by putting the speaker into too small a box, you get a high Q response... the damped port then tries to lower the Q.
dave
BAHH!! 6X9's 
ditch them and get a pair of nice 6.5inch woofers and some tweeters... build some ported boxes and enjoy the cabin gain.. hehe (much easier to design boxes when you know the drivers specs) 6X9s have tweeters inbuilt.... and most often the speaker cone is used as a funel to direct dust down into the voice coil... hehe its too early...
ditch them and get a pair of nice 6.5inch woofers and some tweeters... build some ported boxes and enjoy the cabin gain.. hehe (much easier to design boxes when you know the drivers specs) 6X9s have tweeters inbuilt.... and most often the speaker cone is used as a funel to direct dust down into the voice coil... hehe its too early...
I did some 6"x9" box, large one...
I did them baout 1 cubic feet each...
Even scealed i have a lot of bass...
The reality is that the volume won't change a lot of thing... It's doesn't need to be very very specific...
Larger box = more bass
smaller box = less bass!!!
You can allway try to port
Seriously it would be possible and you should go 1 cubic feet per speaker to 1 1/2 feet
and port about 5hz more that the lower the speaker goes...
The best you can do...
my 2 cents
I did them baout 1 cubic feet each...
Even scealed i have a lot of bass...
The reality is that the volume won't change a lot of thing... It's doesn't need to be very very specific...
Larger box = more bass
smaller box = less bass!!!
You can allway try to port
Seriously it would be possible and you should go 1 cubic feet per speaker to 1 1/2 feet
and port about 5hz more that the lower the speaker goes...
The best you can do...
my 2 cents
6x9s are just made to use the whole trunk (or 'boot' for us aussies ) in most cases, as stated. and really it's probably gonna be best like that.
are you exceptionally concerned with sound from the rear, or is mainly just gonna be on quiet to keep the rear passengers happy when you rarely have them etc?
to me the idea of throwing 6x9s in the rear shelf was an easy way of getting a bit of bass for the time being (until i could afford a sub), and to get some sound in the rear. i'd be more concerned with fronts, and fade the sound to the front.
) in most cases, as stated. and really it's probably gonna be best like that.are you exceptionally concerned with sound from the rear, or is mainly just gonna be on quiet to keep the rear passengers happy when you rarely have them etc?
to me the idea of throwing 6x9s in the rear shelf was an easy way of getting a bit of bass for the time being (until i could afford a sub), and to get some sound in the rear. i'd be more concerned with fronts, and fade the sound to the front.
porting?
I have the same problem with a pair of 6.5" speakers in the front of my car. It's a 1971 Mini and my only option was to make a couple of boxes that screwed to the underside of the dash. You're VERY limited with room in the car so the boxes only ended up being 0.15 cu ft. I know it's tiny tiny tiny but they sound okay (for now) but want some more bass and I think porting is the only answer.
Planet10 - You mentioned that to lower the Q response you can drill a series of holes in the box, but I didn't understand how many holes (what is a "area of a third of the Sd of a speaker"??) you should drill and cover/dampen to test the speaker response.
-MearCat
I have the same problem with a pair of 6.5" speakers in the front of my car. It's a 1971 Mini and my only option was to make a couple of boxes that screwed to the underside of the dash. You're VERY limited with room in the car so the boxes only ended up being 0.15 cu ft. I know it's tiny tiny tiny but they sound okay (for now) but want some more bass and I think porting is the only answer.
Planet10 - You mentioned that to lower the Q response you can drill a series of holes in the box, but I didn't understand how many holes (what is a "area of a third of the Sd of a speaker"??) you should drill and cover/dampen to test the speaker response.
-MearCat
Sd is the cone area.
I guess it's effectively using lots of tiny ports, but leaving them open as such, but using a soft material to dampen. the dampening will get rid of air flow noise (port noise) through these holes, and also not let the ports flow as much. that's how i understand it, but i may be wrong.
I guess it's effectively using lots of tiny ports, but leaving them open as such, but using a soft material to dampen. the dampening will get rid of air flow noise (port noise) through these holes, and also not let the ports flow as much. that's how i understand it, but i may be wrong.
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