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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
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I've got a Hifonics Titan TX1505D that I just received that came in without an IC. I am almost positive that it is supposed to be an HIP4080 . Looks to be a 20 pin IC and is socketed.. I believe the circuit board designation is IC5. Not sure why it is missing though. The outputs do not appear to be blown or to have been replaced. The amp powers on normally and the relay clicks on a few seconds after the amp powers up. There is not significant dc on the output terminals and the rail voltage appears to be sitting at roughly 65-66 volts dc. Is there anything I can check or test to make sure that everything else is working before I drop another HIP4080 in here if thats even what it takes.
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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If pushing on the board near the outputs (with a non-conductive probe) doesn't cause the voltage on the speaker terminals to swing significantly, the 4080 may be the only problem.
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
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Does this Ic fail in these amplifiers because it is a touchy part or is it something about the amps circuitry that causes the chip to fail.
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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I've seen plenty of failures that required nothing more than replacing the IC. After replacing it, I don't remember ever having one fail again (as you might have if something on the board caused it to fail).
You should check the DC voltage across ZD1C. It should be ~6.2v.
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
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Is 6.6 volts close enough for the voltage across ZD1C?
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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That's close enough.
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
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I popped in the new hip4080 and powered the amp up. The amp does not draw excessive current but it will not power on properly. It starts off in protect like normal and then the power light comes on but instead of the power light being green this time it is red. Anybody know what this means? The protect light is not illuminated but the power light appears to be a bi color led and is coming on red instead of green. The speaker relay still engages though. I can't get any output from the amp. I was mistaken about the outputs too. They have definitely been replaced. They are IRF3710's. Whoever installed them didnt bother to clip the excess leads from the bottom of the board. I am lucky they didn't short to the heatsink. It seems like I read somewhere that these amps wont work with 3710's but will function with 3710Z's. Is this potentially part of my issue?
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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I'd suggest replacing them with the Z version before you do anything else.
Confirm that you have ~6v on pins 6 and 7 of the 4080 socket (no 4080 in the socket). You should see a triangle waveform that's ~3v p-p. Are you sure that the 4080 is a good?
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
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It was brand new but I know these have a high failure rate. I will order a couple more when I order new outputs. I will check the voltage on those pins of the socket as well.
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
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Do the zeners near the outputs usually fail when the outputs fail in these amplifiers? Does anyone happen to know the value of these diodes without me having to pull them all from the board? Are they 1N4148's by chance? Are the gates for the outputs supposed to be 100 ohms?
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