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#11 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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Those are 1N4148s.
The hifonics amps generally use the ZD designation for Zeners. The diodes rarely fail. The gate resistors for the outputs are 100 ohms.
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Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#12 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
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I see. Thinking is a little off tonight. Right part number but they aren't zeners. Are there only four gate resistors and four 4148's for the 8 output fets?
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#13 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
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Also wondering if my hip4080 is defective will it destroy the new outputs when I try to power the amp on?
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#14 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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If the outputs failed, you should assume that the 4080 is defective and replace it. Yes, it's possible that a defective 4080 could blow the new outputs.
There are 4 drive circuits from the 4080. Each pair of outputs is driven by one of the circuits. Each circuit has a single diode and gate resistor. There are other diodes and 470k resistors but those are part of the pull-down circuit.
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links Last edited by Perry Babin; 29th January 2011 at 05:11 AM. |
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#15 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
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Tonight I soldered in the IRF3710Z's . To be on the safe side I also replaced the 1N4148's and gate resistors near the outputs. I decided to give the HIP4080 I originally put in a shot and powered the amp up. It powered up normally without excessive current draw. The power light is green instead of red this time
. The output relay clicked on as it should and the amp idled fine with no issues. It's late so I couldn't run it very loudly but I verified both with a speaker and with an oscilloscope that the amp is now producing clean audio. Hopefully tomorrow I can get her all buttoned back up and put it in the car to give her a real test run.
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#16 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Estonia
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Hope the problem have been solved. But I have one more question about the ZD1: if I have only 3.83V there should I change it? Also there are about 4.1V on pin 6 and almost zero on pin 7. All these voltages were measured without the HIP (and it is probably dead). A couple of outputs were blown, so now I only use 4 of them for tests (IRF3710). The amp is almost the same, bxi1608. Do anybody have ideas about what to do first?
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#17 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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Move or copy this to a new thread and I'll try to help.
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#18 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Estonia
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Blown HIFONICS BXi-1600D (HIP4080AIPZ inside)
Here it is, but nobody else could help.. |
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#19 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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Move or copy this to a new thread in the car audio forum and I'll try to help.
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#20 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Wisconsin
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I started a new thread from the original, cut and paste.
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