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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Fairfax, VA
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{Disclaimer} I would have posted this in a different forum but the intention is to eventually repair 2 RF Punch 150 HD's that I have laying around.
Back in my college days (early '90s), I was insanely into car audio and this included repairing amps and head units. At the time, I purchased some test equipment at auctions including a HP 200AB Audio Oscillator (tube based), HP 1200A Oscilloscope (also tube based, I think??), and a lab grade 12V 25A rack mount PS (linear). Since these have been weathering the climate here in Virginia since 1995 in the garage, I am wondering what precautions/service steps I need to take before powering them up. They are now inside the house (after 15 years). Aside from some dust, they still appear fine externally. I figure I should give them several hours to acclimate to the temp inside my house which is about 40 degrees F higher than outside. Beyond this, any suggestions or past experiences would be greatly appreciated. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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It's generally recommended that you bring the voltage up slowly. This allows any caps that have deteriorated to 'reform'.
If the humidity is high in the house and there is a chance of condensation forming on the interior parts of the equipment, you may want to wait 24 hours. The combination of dust and condensation can form conductive paths.
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Fairfax, VA
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Thanks, Perry. I will definitely wait 24 hours or longer as my house is quite humid. As far as bringing up the voltage slowly, I don't have a variac at present. I assume that is what you are referring to as it is test equipment (120 VAC input). If it is, can you recommend one? Otherwise, would a bulb tester setup work?
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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Yes, a variac.
A 120v lamp in series would also help protect the equipment. If you have them, start with low wattage. 40w >> 100w would probably be good enough.
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Fairfax, VA
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After sleeping on it, I have decided that investing in a Variac would be a good idea. While I don't have much $ invested in my test equipment, replacing any one piece would likely be more than the cost of a variac. Can somebody recommend a particular model and vendor?
-Stu |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: SinCity
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Whom ever has the best warranty?
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All my battles have been won, But the war has just begun. |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Fairfax, VA
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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sencore pr57
Ebay is where you'll find the best prices.
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Fairfax, VA
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Thanks again, Perry. I found this on CL:
General Radio Type W10MT3A 10 Amp Metered VARIAC, Great for Guitar Amp Given my love of old [couldn't break it if you had to] equipment, it seems like a perfect fit. Actually, I am going to take a look at it in 45 mins or so and will likely pick it up. So yell quickly if I am making a huge mistake ![]() -Stu |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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I know nothing about that piece. I've had a pr57 for ~20 years and it's never failed to work properly. That's why I recommended it.
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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