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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: houston, tx
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i have a autotek mm series amx 100.2 i need to repair. I really want to bring this piece of car audio history back to life.
problem is protect light coming on as soon as power is received from remote wire, with b+ and ground hooked up. tried on multiple cars, same deal. have already tested all output transistors (irf9540 and irf540) all are testing fine with similar readings across all transistors. have tested all power side transistors (irfp064n) all are fine with no readings near zero. only thing i cannot test or dont know how to test is the diodes (fmg-33r, fmg-33s). have also tested all resistors in parallel with transistors, are seem fine. need someone to point me in right direction, thanks |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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If pin 16 on the TL494 is being driven above the voltage on pin 15, post the voltage on all of the pins of IC10.
IC10 Pin 1: Pin 2: Pin 3: Pin 4: Pin 5: Pin 6: Pin 7: Pin 8:
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Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Louis y ana
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I have that amp with no heatsink lol and it powers up
__________________
Don't worry... you can always turn the gain down! |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: houston, tx
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how much? u selling it?
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: houston, tx
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alright i have been doing some poking around on the amp and it looks as if a reavious repair was done with non oem component. This amp has irf9540's and irf540's. 4 of each on each side. one side has four irf540's and the other has 3 irf540's with a odd looking irfz24n. i have tested all fets with DMM all come out good, but this one irfz24n has differnt ohm readings than the irf540's and right leg/left leg tests .8 ohms(pretty near 0 if you ask me) other legs test 20-22 ohms. not only may this fet be bad, but i feel that it may not meet the specs to work right in the amp.
measurements of irf540 are right leg, center leg/21ohms right leg left leg/94.8 ohms center leg, right leg/22.1 |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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You have center-right twice.
Remove the one that reads the lowest from leg 1 to leg 2 and recheck the rest.
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: houston, tx
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heres a link to both data sheets. the second link is the irfz24n. first is irf540
http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/data...onics/9387.pdf http://www.irf.com/product-info/data...ta/irfz24n.pdf |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: houston, tx
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sorry measurement for irfz24n
right leg,center leg:20.8ohms right leg, left leg:.8 ohm center leg, left leg:22.0 ohm measurements for irf540 are right leg,center leg:21.1 ohm right leg, left leg:. 95 ohm center leg, left leg: 114.9 ohm also didnt understand the lowest reading is received from the irfz24n, all others read fine Last edited by grandam88; 20th January 2011 at 10:44 PM. |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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If removing the Z24 allowed the rest to read normally, the amp may power up and produce audio now. Clamp the transistors to the heatsink before applying power. Insert a 10 amp fuse in the B+ line.
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: houston, tx
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okay removing the z24 allowed amp to power up correctly. i have noticed this amp used heat transfer pads i guess you would call them, instead of heat sink compound. Are these reusable? they don't need to be replaced after removing board from heat sink?
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