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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
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This is how the amp came in. He told me someone else tryed to repair it before and couldnt get it to work. So just wondering if anyone else out there likes theese kind of repair jobs ? Now i have to remove all the fets outputs rectifiers ect and clean the board .
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
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At least you know what the problem is. LOL
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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If you think that's bad, you haven't been doing this work very long. What needs to be cleaned off of the board?
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Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
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Ive seen alot worse then that. I have to clean the flux off the board.
I also have to jump traces to the legs of the outputs rectifiers and fets since more then have of the pads are burnt right off the board on the bottom side and some are burned off on the topside of the board also. And now i have to try to find parts to repair this amp. The FMG36R and FMG36S have broken legs also the 60EPF06 has broken legs |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: SinCity
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That's not bad at all, I remember a US Amp's a customer of mine brought in a few years back, I think it took 2 or 3 rolls of paper towels, and a quart of acetone. that was just cleaning the heatsink.
__________________
All my battles have been won, But the war has just begun. |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
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That gunk is no match for a razor blade once you remove the transistors / pcb. Just be carefull not to scratch soft metal aluminum.
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Atlanta Ga. USA
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I've repaired amps with nickel size holes burned thru. Made a patch with JB weld, redrilled the patch for the leads of the burned up components and point to point wired it all up. So what you have is a piece of cake.
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