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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
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does anyone know where i can get the schematics for the planet audio bb2400.1? i need to know what the value of the gate resistor for the IRF1010E in the power supply is.
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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100 ohms
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
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thanks
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
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the outputs (IRFP264N) also appear to be shorted but i can't seem to be able to find any available. i didn't want to do a cross ref because perry always says that class d amps are picky about exact replacement parts. what could i safely go with?
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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I couldn't find any stock. It may be possible to find a sub but you should only do it as a last resort. If you use a sub, you'd need to do thorough testing to confirm that they work properly.
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
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first off does anybody know if IRFP264N is the original output FET part # for these amps? a friend bought it a while back refurbished, and from day 1 it got very hot just from being turned on. with no load and no input just the power wires it was getting hot. it played audio but would be extremely hot and would periodically go into protection. eventaully it burned out, i opened it and ALL FETs appear to be shorted. i need to buy parts and i have found IRFP264 but not the n's for a reasonable price.
i was just wondering if it would make a difference between the 2 parts? if the IRFP264n's are not the right part in the first place i don't want to chase down problems because of wrong parts. |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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The N version is the original part.
Without actually trying the substitute part in the audio section of a class D amp, it's virtually impossible to know if it will work properly.
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
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What a 91 ohm work for the gate resistor? Should I wait and get the 100 ohm
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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For the power supply, a 91 ohms should be OK but you'll need to replace all of them (or, at the very least, all of the ones for the FETs in the bank with the resistor that failed).
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
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for the drivers in the output these 2SC4793 & 2SA1837 were used, if they are the original part #'s i don't know. i havn't removed the driver board and checked them yet but i did already order some identical replacements. but before i started i was just wandering if these were the original part #'s or not? i'm just skeptical because the amp was purchased from ebay as refurbished and from day 1 it got very hot just at idle (not even any speakers connected). i'v had stuff like that happen when i've chosen unsuitable x-ref parts in the past.
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