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Old 24th December 2010, 07:51 AM   #11
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Wasent trying to be rude to you at all I havent seen your name on here til like a few days ago And wasent sure if you were one of thoose people that thinks they know everything about amps by reading a couple of threads on here.

I respect the fact that you have a degree and you know your stuff was just making sure .

I pulled the rectifiers out and the bank that deflected the most is normal now only have a wierd signal on 1 bank yet. wondering if this would cause a problem or not?
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Old 24th December 2010, 07:56 AM   #12
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You have come to the same conclusion you had in the start, that the smps was fine, and your issue was in the output stage, So, as we discussed in the last iteration, how is the health of the op-amps? can we get a scope shot of there input/output and voltage?


To be honest, Perry owns this section, and has these templates he likes people to use when showing measurements, so really, I'm waisting your time, Perry is who you want.
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Old 24th December 2010, 08:00 AM   #13
luka is offline luka  Slovenia
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well you would do that to unload supply, if something is worng with amp. What I would go is, go from drivers back and see if there is any good signal, as it should be... in the end something on driver card could be dead or not working ok
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Old 24th December 2010, 08:03 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luka View Post
well you would do that to unload supply, if something is worng with amp. What I would go is, go from drivers back and see if there is any good signal, as it should be... in the end something on driver card could be dead or not working ok





I tend to blame the drivers first, They just have a way of going bad... especially in the amps that use 16+ driven's, in the to-220 and bigger package, with 4 to-92's per side, holding the rein's give me good old to-220 on to-220 and to-243's for the out's, tip35 and 36c's still grace my finest amp's.
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Old 24th December 2010, 08:15 AM   #15
luka is offline luka  Slovenia
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I know what you mean, but as long as amp work, those drivers are ok, most times drivers go at the same time as fets do, so they are really "at the heart of the action"... but if they fail, then even ICs "up the stream" can be damaged.

expect everything to be damaged, but do see, what is ok and what is for sure not

This z2 and z1 are only amps, way too big to work inside a car in those conditions that they most of the times are
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Old 24th December 2010, 09:58 AM   #16
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In the last photo you posted, it appears that the PNP driver transistor isn't pulling the voltage down sharply enough. If you don't have a replacement on hand, swap it with another one to see if the problem follows the transistor.
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Old 24th December 2010, 03:26 PM   #17
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Well I found a big problem when i started removing the driver transistors ,

The legs on the C3228 is broken and someone did a number on this amp the pads are burnt very badly.

This amp to me is pretty much unrepairable. I will take pics in a few and show you what i mean.

Is there a good replacement for the C3228's Like the C2383's or should i order something else"?
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Old 24th December 2010, 03:44 PM   #18
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Perry,

Heres a pic of the pads for the driver board and for the driver transistors .

Dont know how i overlooked this lastnight but in your honest opinion is this amp even worth trying to fix?
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Old 24th December 2010, 04:09 PM   #19
spooney is offline spooney  United States
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Wow that is terrible. Is there even anything left there to solder to? I'm sure it could be made workable but who knows for how long. I'd be scared to warranty that.
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Old 24th December 2010, 04:14 PM   #20
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Thats why i told him there is no warranty on this amp at all. At this point i dont even know if its repairable im leaning towards not.
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