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Old 18th December 2010, 06:36 PM   #1
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Angry Amp keeps going into protect mode...

I have 2 12" JVC Subs, That put out 1000Watts and 4Ohms a piece. A 1800Watt Crystal Pyramid amp, I bridged the connection and its maximum impedance level is 4-8 Ohms in the manual for the amp. I fixed all of the wire leads on my sub because some had flaws. I thought maybe that would solve my problem. I was dumb, Installed the subs this morning and still goes into protect mode if the volume is turned up. Do i need a capacitor? Help would be much appreciated.
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Old 18th December 2010, 06:39 PM   #2
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When you bridge an amp you double the rated impedance so you will have to wire your subs in series to make them 8 ohms. Is this how you have done it? If so, I'll have to let the smart guys help you.
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Old 18th December 2010, 08:05 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by legalizeeit 420 View Post
I fixed all of the wire leads on my sub because some had flaws.

Do i need a capacitor? Help would be much appreciated.

Were the subs tinsel leads broken ? or was it just bad connections at the terminals?

Are the subs free moving if you press on the cones near the center ? Do they travel freely back and forth , without scraping or grabbing of the Voice coils ???

Caps can be helpful in some cases, but without more info on your system and your cars charging system, I would say its a step in the wrong direction just now.
Plus I am a fan of big caps only, 50 farad or larger, with battery's being a better choice in most cases.

Then there are the more pressing questions like, How big and long is the wire feeding power to your amp, and how much fusing is on the amp total at the amp please ?
And then what about the ground wire connection info ? how long ? Where connected, and what size wire ? and are the connections all clean and dry and non-corroded ?

And have you read the voltage reading across the power terminals on the amp while it playing loudly to see if its dropping below 12 volts ??

There are at least two dozen reasons why this might be happening, it has happened to others before, but without lots more info your issue is hard to diagnose properly. Do you have any pictures of the amp install, and the subs connections etc...

The reason I ask about the wiring and the fusing at the amp is because for your amp to really make 1800 watts in the real world it will need over 150 amperes at 12 volts. most stock car charging systems will bite the dust long before you get anywhere near this power level, and so will small wiring for power, and bad grounding, and small speaker wires are also a no-no.

If your amp is really a large one then these things come into play. Plus it may be the subs are damaged at the voice coil level and this can be sometimes hard to detect.
just tons of reason why you issue are happening, please tell us more about the install and pictures of the amp and subs if possible cause I am sure we here are all guessing at best right now without this sort of info to work with...

Last edited by 1moreamp; 18th December 2010 at 08:33 PM.
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Old 18th December 2010, 10:25 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by Cal Weldon View Post
When you bridge an amp you double the rated impedance so you will have to wire your subs in series to make them 8 ohms. Is this how you have done it? If so, I'll have to let the smart guys help you.
Nah its 2-4 unbridged, 4-8 bridged.
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Old 18th December 2010, 10:41 PM   #5
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So how have you wired the two subs? With two @ 4 ohm you get either 2 ohms or 8, no? Am i missing something? Sorry if I am.
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Old 18th December 2010, 10:41 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1moreamp View Post
Were the subs tinsel leads broken ? or was it just bad connections at the terminals?

Are the subs free moving if you press on the cones near the center ? Do they travel freely back and forth , without scraping or grabbing of the Voice coils ???

Caps can be helpful in some cases, but without more info on your system and your cars charging system, I would say its a step in the wrong direction just now.
Plus I am a fan of big caps only, 50 farad or larger, with battery's being a better choice in most cases.

Then there are the more pressing questions like, How big and long is the wire feeding power to your amp, and how much fusing is on the amp total at the amp please ?
And then what about the ground wire connection info ? how long ? Where connected, and what size wire ? and are the connections all clean and dry and non-corroded ?

And have you read the voltage reading across the power terminals on the amp while it playing loudly to see if its dropping below 12 volts ??

There are at least two dozen reasons why this might be happening, it has happened to others before, but without lots more info your issue is hard to diagnose properly. Do you have any pictures of the amp install, and the subs connections etc...

The reason I ask about the wiring and the fusing at the amp is because for your amp to really make 1800 watts in the real world it will need over 150 amperes at 12 volts. most stock car charging systems will bite the dust long before you get anywhere near this power level, and so will small wiring for power, and bad grounding, and small speaker wires are also a no-no.

If your amp is really a large one then these things come into play. Plus it may be the subs are damaged at the voice coil level and this can be sometimes hard to detect.
just tons of reason why you issue are happening, please tell us more about the install and pictures of the amp and subs if possible cause I am sure we here are all guessing at best right now without this sort of info to work with...


Yes, Some of the leads were broken, I repaired them and it works fine now.

The sub does move freely, once i get to a certain point it starts to scrape, but its too far out for the bass to hit that point without me pushing it.

I have a brand new battery, just asked about cap cause my brother told me if i bridge my **** then ill need one.

Idk much about the amp wires, I bought a kit at walmart, very standard. The connections are all very good, and there is enough power going to the amp. Ground wire is really short though.
How do you check fusing?

Have not read the voltage reading, I dont even know how i would go about doing so.

Once again, Wires are all good size wise. My brother is a sound engineer. Im more hands on, Takin **** apart puttin it back together. Hes more like if it stops working, throw it away and buy a new one.

How would i be able to detect if the coils are damaged? I am highly convinced that my subs are damaged not so much the amp or the rest of the system.
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Old 18th December 2010, 10:45 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by Cal Weldon View Post
So how have you wired the two subs? With two @ 4 ohm you get either 2 ohms or 8, no? Am i missing something? Sorry if I am.
They are bridged, A positive from each speaker goes on the first terminal for the (+), and a negative from each wire goes to the second terminal for the (-), which is using 2 channels. I dont know whats going on with the Ohms in the meantime but they are bridged correctly on my amp.
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Old 18th December 2010, 10:48 PM   #8
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Ok You have a 2 channel amp. A left channel which has a + - terminal. And a right channel which has a + - terminal. Do you have 1 sub hooked up to the left channel and 1 sub wired up to the right channel. Or do you have both positives from the subs going to the left channel + and both negatives wired to the right channels - terminal?

Last edited by mike49504; 18th December 2010 at 10:53 PM.
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Old 18th December 2010, 10:49 PM   #9
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Draw us a diagram. If I read your description properly you are overdriving the amp with too low of an impedance.
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Old 18th December 2010, 10:51 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by mike49504 View Post
How are your subs wired to the amp?

You have 1 positve and 1 negative per subwoofer correct?

Yeah, and then i connected the positives from both subs to the positive on channel 1. Same with the negatives onto channel 2.
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