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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
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I got two of these beasts sitting on my bench. I guess they are pretty rare - they say Fabrique Au Japon; AKA Made in Japan. The last time one of these was serviced was in 1996 but these are likely from the late 80s. Class AB from the looks of it (The 3558 was a Class A / Class AB). Their approximate power rating would be about 250w X 2 at 4 Ohms.
Internally these amps are in very good shape. Nothing imidiate catches the DVM off guard. i dont think these are going to be that costly to fix. From left to right; The one on the left has a plate number #1105. Powers up but sounds like there is an internal speaker under the PCB - making a white-noise sound. The one on the right's plate is numbered #0471 and proclaims itself to be 'overheated' when power and rem is applied. There seems to only be one other thread on DIY about these amps and not a whole lot else. Alpine 3545 (alpines best) problems ![]() This is gonna be fun... All transistors are individually screwed down. Last edited by Dr Zeus; 15th December 2010 at 11:49 PM. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
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Most early Alpines had individual screws per transistor. Makes it a real pain to work on but it is so worth it in the end in my opinion. Love these old Alpines
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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You don't remove the individual screws unless you're removing the transistors. The transistors are screwed to a riser plate. You unscrew that plate.
Let's start with the one in thermal protection. Start a new thread for the other one when we finish this one. Post the DC voltage on all pins of the 494: Pin 1: Pin 2: Pin 3: Pin 4: Pin 5: Pin 6: Pin 7: Pin 8: Pin 9: Pin 10: Pin 11: Pin 12: Pin 13: Pin 14: Pin 15: Pin 16:
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: On the brink of insanity
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I'm no expert with these, but the 2 that I have repaired had solder issues with the vertical boards. Check where it connects to the main board on the under side of the amp. This is where I found the problems on mine.
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
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Thanks Perry:
494: Pin 1: 0.021 Pin 2: 0.899 Pin 3: 0.837 Pin 4: 5.06 Pin 5: 1.697 Pin 6: 3.741 Pin 7: 0 Pin 8: 13.63 Pin 9: 0.789 Pin 10: 0.799 Pin 11: 13.68 Pin 12: 13.68 Pin 13: 5.07 Pin 14: 5.07 Pin 15: 5.07 Pin 16: 0.001 Theres no more than 13.7vDC anywhere Also, (on both of these amps) the power curcuitry is using D1065 transistors. Measuring from legs 1-3 I get only 3 ohms like they are shorted; but 1-2 and 2-3 I get 5M Ohms. |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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Remove ZD601. Does the amp power up with that diode out of the circuit?
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
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I removed D601 and the amp did not appear to want to power up.
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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Can you be more specific?
Is everything precisely as it was before?
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
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Yes I was about to edit. The LEDs on the front come on just as before - REM and Overheat LEDs.
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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Remove Q602. Does the amp power up?
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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