|
|||||||
| Home | Forums | Rules | Articles | Store | Gallery | Blogs | Register | Donations | FAQ | Calendar | Search | Today's Posts | Mark Forums Read | Search |
|
Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.
Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving |
|
![]() |
|
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|
#1 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: SinCity
|
Need to know what and where ALL to-220 package parts go inside this amp. Here is the list
D55 D56 D57 D58 Q17 Q19 Q20 Q21 Q22 Q23 Q24 Q211 Q212 Q213 Q214 Q215 Q216 Q251 Q252 Q253 Q254 Q255 Q256 If anyone has a schematic for this amp, Id be interested in compensating the provider.
__________________
All my battles have been won, But the war has just begun. |
|
|
|
|
#2 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
|
See attached. What do you need the schematic diagram for? I don't have one but I may be able to tell you what you need to know.
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
|
|
|
|
#3 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: SinCity
|
As a EE by trade, I was interested in cloning these amps, for my own sinister reasons, mainly because I want to/can.
Just saves me time from stripping a board down, and REing the circuit. Just for future reference. D55 = YG225N2 D56 = YG225C2 D57 = YG225C2 D58 = YG225N2 Q16 = IRF3205 Q17 = IRF3205 Q19 = IRF3205 Q20 = IRF3205 Q21 = IRF3205 Q22 = IRF3205 Q23 = IRF3205 Q24 = IRF3205 Q211 = IRF9640 Q212 = IRF9640 Q213 = IRF9640 Q214 = IRF9640 Q215 = IRF640 Q216 = IRF640 Q251 = IRF9640 Q252 = IRF9640 Q253 = IRF9640 Q254 = IRF9640 Q255 = IRF640 Q256 = IRF640 Thanks Perry, hope I can help you out some day, you give so much and ask so little
__________________
All my battles have been won, But the war has just begun. Last edited by 807tubenut; 8th December 2010 at 01:51 AM. |
|
|
|
|
#4 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
|
The JBL BP1200.1 uses the same class D section. Email me if you want it.
babin_perry@yahoo.com There are 8 3205s.
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
|
|
|
|
#5 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: SinCity
|
corrected, and email sent.
Interesting, the JBL amp states it's giving 1200w into 2ohms, where this Memphis realizes it's final power @ 1ohm, same wattage, that's marketing for ya.
__________________
All my battles have been won, But the war has just begun. Last edited by 807tubenut; 8th December 2010 at 02:00 AM. |
|
|
|
|
#6 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: SinCity
|
Got the new smps fets in today, powered the front-end up, with the outputs and driver cards removed, idle was 1.5amps, Voltage was quite sufficient, and nothing overheated, ill be rebuilding the driver cards, as I found both to have a few cold joints, and the gate drivers shorted. New parts get here next week, Hope I have time to get to the xtant 300.1, and the hifonics TXI7508 sitting on the shelf.
__________________
All my battles have been won, But the war has just begun. |
|
|
|
|
#7 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: SinCity
|
Got it back up and running, idle with no audio is 1.4amps, after the relay closes, all is well, minus this crazy high pitch squeal, some times it fades out, and wont come back for 10~15mins, then once again, right back to the noise! the trimmer's don't change the sound, no matter the position, removed all the caps and tested them for leakage, none detected by me, but there is a cap, in front of the audio driver card (the card with the defaced IC's) that if I touch the body of it, the squeal goes through the roof, replaced it with a really nice rubycon black gate, same deal..
Perry, you ever seen this? I figure it has to be a ground, or lack there of.
__________________
All my battles have been won, But the war has just begun. |
|
|
|
|
#8 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
|
A squeal that's produced at the preamp level sometimes indicates that there's a bad connection on one of the components in the crossover circuit. Does moving the switches and pots through their entire range affect the noise?
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
|
|
|
|
#9 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: SinCity
|
Moving the pot's, does not change anything, except the gain, and it just makes it louder
I have good +-15v on the op-amp's, and replaced all the older electrolytic caps.
__________________
All my battles have been won, But the war has just begun. |
|
|
|
|
#10 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
|
Do you have a scope?
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
|
|
![]() |
| Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
| Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|
Similar Threads
|
||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| Memphis 16-mc1000d | mike49504 | Car Audio | 46 | 9th July 2010 09:06 PM |
| 16-st1500d memphis | timwebb | Car Audio | 27 | 23rd June 2010 07:38 PM |
| Memphis 16-st1000d | mike49504 | Car Audio | 46 | 19th May 2010 07:40 AM |
| Memphis 16-ST500D | mike49504 | Car Audio | 19 | 17th December 2009 04:32 PM |
| memphis 16-ST500D | frt96 | Car Audio | 2 | 9th May 2008 07:16 AM |
| New To Site? | Need Help? |
| Page generated in 0.12025 seconds (76.65% PHP - 23.35% MySQL) with 11 queries |