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#21 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
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Hey guys,
I'm working on the same amp and need to replace some resistors but I can't read the numbers of of them. Call y'all find out what the numbers on r600 through r607 are for me. Thanks |
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#22 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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47 ohms
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Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair * Basic Car Audio Electronics * New Site * Basic Switching Power Supply Design * Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#23 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Chicago, IL
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My 500/1 PCB 100006 Rev 10 has the same symptoms as the OP.. I've found relatively the same voltages at the 10 pin connector near the power/ground/remote terminals. Though I'm having trouble locating Q515 any help would be appreciated
Thanks |
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#24 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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It's not marked on the rev.10 amp but I think it's the one indicated in the attached photo.
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Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair * Basic Car Audio Electronics * New Site * Basic Switching Power Supply Design * Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#25 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Chicago, IL
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Desoldered Q515, no still only getting ~.3v AC out of the speaker terminals at max gain. Do you do side jobs?
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#26 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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Sometimes but shipping costs ad significantly to the cost of any repair.
What are you using for a signal source? Did you have it installed when it failed?
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair * Basic Car Audio Electronics * New Site * Basic Switching Power Supply Design * Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#27 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Chicago, IL
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I switched out the subwoofer with a brand new one, as soon as it powered on with the new woofer is when it failed. I was using an iPod with a mini to RCA cable as a signal source to test. Shipping cost isn't a problem, if it can't be repaired I won't need it back.
Thanks, Mark |
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#28 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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What is the DC voltage on each of the speaker terminals (one positive and one negative) with the black probe on the amp's main ground terminal?
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Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair * Basic Car Audio Electronics * New Site * Basic Switching Power Supply Design * Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#29 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
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I'm having almost the exact same issue with my 500/1. I just put in a new 8w7 and hooked it all up and it was pretty quiet, so I went to adjust the input sensitivity as described by the manual.
So I get it all setup, and even with the gain all the way clockwise, while running a 50hz sine tone, I am still only getting around 5.5v on the sub output terminals. This is with the input sensitivity switch on low. On high they are even lower. It's supposed to be up to 38.7v for a 3 ohm sub. I don't know too much about this stuff, so from the sounds of it, this fix is going to be over my head. But I thought I'd ask. I'm using an Alpine CDE-126BT headunit. I have defeated all EQ's on the headunit, and on the amp itself. Voltmeter is on AC. Thank you in advance. |
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#30 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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Do you have the input selector set to low?
If you have any other questions, start a new thread. Include the information in post #29. In the subject line, include the amp make/model and the symptoms.
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Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair * Basic Car Audio Electronics * New Site * Basic Switching Power Supply Design * Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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