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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Athens
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This power amp got fire in the power supply section.
As you can see from the pic, the PWM module has melted. I wonder, does it worth replacing it? Is it available? All power supply IRFPs are blown/melted. The main board does not have severe damage, from the melted module. I think that after some careful cleaning, it can be repaired.... The class D section seems OK. Please i need some experienced advice on this |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Athens
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Here is the PWM module...
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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These often burn badly but can sometimes be saved but yours appears to have burned so badly that the connector has broken away from the driver board. Is that correct?
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Athens
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No, actualy i removed the burned module, after trying to desolder whatever pins could be desoldered....the rest ones, i cut them.
Is this module available to buy? Most of the damage to the mail board was caused by the SMD electrolytics in the module that melted/exploded. The underside of the main PCB is in repairable condition... With a q-tip and alcohol, i think i can save the main PCB. Problem is with the gate resistors of the IRFP064.....ALL burned-could i find their value? |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Athens
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This is what i could remove by desoldering....
The rest, i had to cut. In my opinion, this power supply started burning from the mosfets inwards, to the current amplifier transistors, and back |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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I don't know if the driver boards are available.
The resistors are likely 47 ohms. I've seen 27 and 47 ohm resistors used with the IRFP064s. Anything in that range should work. Most of these boards start burning at the driver transistors and burn down to the main board.
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Athens
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Yes i agree.
Do you confirm that this kind of damage is worth repairing? What would you do in my shoes? I confirm that one gate resistor i measured was 33 ohms. The rest of them , i do not know. I suppose there should be two PNP and two NPN current drive transistors that are burned on the right side of the PWM modulde. |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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Your board is a bit different than the ones I've seen but there is generally a diode and a PNP transistor. The attached images may help.
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
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damn, do you guys use fuses???
probably didn't draw that much current, but that board is gone |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Athens
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@ Luka:
I think the amp was directly connected to a battery... A 200A fuse might be difficult to blow.... @ Perry: Yes, my board seems to be a bit different. There is a D7 close to pin 5 of 293, that is not installed in your board. Is your board also an S-2000D? You can see the version of this amp in the uploaded pic of post #7. |
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