What order are the sub,amp,and deck hooked up in? Install noob, silverado truck.

crewxp · 21st October 2010, 09:30 AM

Just real quick. Stupid question, but just want to confirm. I'm installing a stereo in a Chevy Silverado '07 Extended Cab for the first time.

Can anyone tell me the order Im supposed to hook everything up with? Is everything supposed to connect to the amp, or is only the subwoofer supposed to connect to the amp.

I was thinking it was either like this:
Head Unit->Amp->(Sub)&(Front Speakers)&(Rear Speakers)
http://zenn.tripod.com/jazz/system.gif

Or Like this:
Head Unit->(Front Speakers)&((Amp)->(Subwoofer)&(Rear Speakers)
http://www.nax.com.au/main/GraphicsFAQ/Layout4.PNG

The Deck has: Sub Out (Left and Right), Front Line Out (Left and Right).
The Amp has: Audio In (Left and Right), Speaker Out (Left and Right)

Thanks! Once I get the order setup and figure out how to remove the deck, and how to access the front speakers, I should be good!

Here are the parts I bought:

Parts:

Quote:

500W Amplifier
2x 6.5 240W Speaker
2x 10" RMS Single Loaded Sub
Antenna Adapter
Chevy Deck Converter
KDHDR60 JVC Single Deck Stereo
Deck Hookup Kit
Amp Power Kit

crewxp · 21st October 2010, 05:14 PM

Hey, I forgot to mention.

The amp is a MRP-M500. Mono Power Amplifier with a channel 1 (left) and channel 2 (right) input in the back.

crewxp · 22nd October 2010, 08:55 AM

i got the door and deck off earlier today but it got dark, so i stopped. ill finish it tomorrow.

I have pictures of the parts im unsure of. mainly from my amp power kit and something called a stereo replacement interface. i REALLY wish there was someone near me that could do this, but sadly i live in an isolated area. anywho, let me see if i got this right. Correct me if im wrong if you dont mind.

http://crewxp.com/truck/IMG_0068.JPG

^Above is a picture of my amp kit. The blue wire looks like the wire I run to my battery from my amp. I'll most likely have to find the 'firewall' on the truck and drill a small hole, making sure i dont drill through the wrong spot. then hook it up. the clear wire looks like the remote wire? I run that from my deck to amp. The Black Kicker box goes in my hood somewhere, near the battery.

http://crewxp.com/truck/IMG_0069.JPG

^Above is the stereo replacement kit they gave me. Not sure what to do with this. My guess is that if something doesnt git behind the deck, use the connectors to convert it? There looks like a box with a speaker on it as well. weird.

http://crewxp.com/truck/IMG_0076.JPG

^Above is just for reference. Its the back of my deck. Not sure which one is the 'remote' though. Speakers hookup in the 16 pinned one. Sub in the sub out, nothing in the front line out. then hook whatever wires were hooked up in the factory deck into this one.

jol50 · 22nd October 2010, 06:23 PM

Looks like you really need another amp, a 2ch or 4. That amp is for the sub only, connect RCA to sub out on deck and to amp input, sub to amp via speaker wire. Should be a remote wire from deck to amp to turn it on, a small wire.

You will have to run the speakers on the deck speaker outs if you don't have another amp, even a 2x50 would be better than the deck by far. Amp power wire run to battery be very careful no metal can cut the wire, use grommet in firewall or an existing one if you can. Make sure it is fused near battery. Ground amp near amp, since it is a truck make sure it has a good ground battery to the body and add one if it is small, really should add one to the firewall since most fenders are bolted on trucks and not welded. Firewall is welded to the rest of cab. Or look for a ground engine to firewall since the engine is grounded for high draw of starter.

The stereo wire kit should plug into existing stereo plug and you can wire the deck to that, you may need a kit to mount it if you don't have that. Speakers in doors you should deaden some at least get a roll of peel and stick at the local hardware and cover around them and any holes near them. Mount them on some ply if you need to.

Deck should have a two power wires one on all the time (constant) and one switched off with key/ignition, also the ground, remote, speaker wires, maybe a dash light wire on some of them.

crewxp · 23rd October 2010, 07:53 PM

thanks, that helped a lot.

Okay. I got everything almost installed. The only thing I have left to do is hookup the receiver, run the RCA cable to the amp, then run the RCA cable from the amp to the two subs.

I have a quick question though. Each sub has a left and right input. So thats four total RCA inputs (2 left and 2 right). The Receiver only has a left out and right out to the sub (Red and white). How do you suggest I hook them up?

is it okay to only use the left of the left subwoofer, and the right of the right sub? Or should I split them all.

mike49504 · 24th October 2010, 01:02 AM

Are you talking about the subwoffers themselfs??

If so and they have 2 positive terminals and 2 negative terminals They are a dual voice coil subwoffer.

If they are dual 4 ohm coils you would probably want to hook them up this way.

Take the positive speaker wire comming from the amp and hook it to 1 positive of the speaker take the negative of the same coil and hook it to the positve of the other coil then take the negative of that coil and run it back to the amp. Do this to both subs and you will get a 4 ohm load on the amp.
Since i dont think the amp you have likes a 1 ohm load but i could be wrong.

If you are talking about the amp itself having 4 rca jacks on it 1 of the sets is an input from your head unit and the other is an output to hook another amp up later on.

So all you would need to do is run 1 set of rca's back from the head unit and plug them into the inputs of the amp

crewxp · 24th October 2010, 05:13 AM

Thanks. I appreciate the patience youre taking to help me. Yeah, I was saving the subs for last. It has a red and white connector on the sub. I mistook that for a RCA. If you press the red and white connectors down, it opens up a hole to put the speaker wire in.

So I just need to hook the positive and negative in from the left sub to to the positive and negative out from the amp? And do the same for the right sub? So 2 total wires total go out from each +/- on the amp?

And I ran across a problem too... I have everything hooked up besides the amp and subs. I was testing the speakers and the receiver. If I turn the volume up to 16 (max volume is 50 on receiver), I hear a popping/clicking Sound. If I turn the volume up, I hear the popping and cracking sounds more often. If I turn the receiver bass up, it also comes on more often. I can't figure out why its doing that. I made sure all the receiver cramps to the deck were secure. I'm thinking It's because I left the factory tweeters on (the small speakers along the front side of the car). It seems like the audio signal goes out from the receiver, factory split in the door to the tweeter and also ran to the door speaker. I just clipped the old speakers off, cramped the new speakers to the old wire, and didn't change the tweeter because the new tweeter didn't fit. I HOPE thats why its popping. So I just need to clip off the old tweeters and leave it open? Im thinking about going to a local auto shop and asking if they can tell me why it pops (if they can do it for under 20)

Here's some specs/pics/data/audio:

Amp: Alpine MRP-M500
Per channel output into 4 ohms: <1% THD+N, 14.4V, 300Wx1
Per channel output into 2 ohms: <1% THD+N, 14.4V, 500Wx1
Input Inpedance: RCA IN: 20k ohms | SP IN: 40K ohms
Frequency Response: 20-200Hz

Sub (2): Kicker TC10--C
Normal Impedance: 4ohm
Sensitivity: 93.8dB
Power Handling Watts, Peak: 300 (150) RMS

Receiver: KD-HDR60

Audio (Of Popping from my iPhone):
http://www.crewxp.com/truck/pop.mp3

Pics: (It was too dark outside to get good sub pics, so I took a pic of the box)
Sub Box:
http://www.crewxp.com/truck/IMG_80.JPG
My Receiver Hookup:
http://www.crewxp.com/truck/IMG_77.JPG
Amp Cables:
http://www.crewxp.com/truck/IMG_79.JPG

crewxp · 24th October 2010, 08:47 PM

okay, having the car's popping issue looked at by a friend. then when i get it back in a few hours, going to try and hookup the amp and sub. hopefully no issues.

do you think there will be a issue of power difference bc my amp is 500w (or 300w i think in4ohms?), and my subs are 300 (150) RMS?

I wonder how I should wire it.

crewxp · 25th October 2010, 03:54 AM

okay. we fixed the sound popping issue. turns out it was a bad adapter that came with the speakers. The factory tweeters his/pop only at real high volumes, so im thinking of just disabling those.

but my problem now is my subs. i tried testing only one sub hooked to the amp, and it seems like it barely comes on. my rear factory speakers produce more bass than than sub. am i screwed because the subs dont match the amp? Or do I just have to hookup both subs for it to work.

mike49504 · 25th October 2010, 04:17 AM

If its a mono amp (1 channel) hook both subs up both positives to the amps positive and both negatives to the amps negative and you will have a 2 oohm load which is 500 watts . There should be a gain setting on the amp where is that set to right now?

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21st October 2010, 05:14 PM	#2
crewxp diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2010	Hey, I forgot to mention. The amp is a MRP-M500. Mono Power Amplifier with a channel 1 (left) and channel 2 (right) input in the back.

22nd October 2010, 08:55 AM	#3
crewxp diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2010	i got the door and deck off earlier today but it got dark, so i stopped. ill finish it tomorrow. I have pictures of the parts im unsure of. mainly from my amp power kit and something called a stereo replacement interface. i REALLY wish there was someone near me that could do this, but sadly i live in an isolated area. anywho, let me see if i got this right. Correct me if im wrong if you dont mind. http://crewxp.com/truck/IMG_0068.JPG ^Above is a picture of my amp kit. The blue wire looks like the wire I run to my battery from my amp. I'll most likely have to find the 'firewall' on the truck and drill a small hole, making sure i dont drill through the wrong spot. then hook it up. the clear wire looks like the remote wire? I run that from my deck to amp. The Black Kicker box goes in my hood somewhere, near the battery. http://crewxp.com/truck/IMG_0069.JPG ^Above is the stereo replacement kit they gave me. Not sure what to do with this. My guess is that if something doesnt git behind the deck, use the connectors to convert it? There looks like a box with a speaker on it as well. weird. http://crewxp.com/truck/IMG_0076.JPG ^Above is just for reference. Its the back of my deck. Not sure which one is the 'remote' though. Speakers hookup in the 16 pinned one. Sub in the sub out, nothing in the front line out. then hook whatever wires were hooked up in the factory deck into this one.

22nd October 2010, 06:23 PM	#4
jol50 diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2007	Looks like you really need another amp, a 2ch or 4. That amp is for the sub only, connect RCA to sub out on deck and to amp input, sub to amp via speaker wire. Should be a remote wire from deck to amp to turn it on, a small wire. You will have to run the speakers on the deck speaker outs if you don't have another amp, even a 2x50 would be better than the deck by far. Amp power wire run to battery be very careful no metal can cut the wire, use grommet in firewall or an existing one if you can. Make sure it is fused near battery. Ground amp near amp, since it is a truck make sure it has a good ground battery to the body and add one if it is small, really should add one to the firewall since most fenders are bolted on trucks and not welded. Firewall is welded to the rest of cab. Or look for a ground engine to firewall since the engine is grounded for high draw of starter. The stereo wire kit should plug into existing stereo plug and you can wire the deck to that, you may need a kit to mount it if you don't have that. Speakers in doors you should deaden some at least get a roll of peel and stick at the local hardware and cover around them and any holes near them. Mount them on some ply if you need to. Deck should have a two power wires one on all the time (constant) and one switched off with key/ignition, also the ground, remote, speaker wires, maybe a dash light wire on some of them.

23rd October 2010, 07:53 PM	#5
crewxp diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2010	thanks, that helped a lot. Okay. I got everything almost installed. The only thing I have left to do is hookup the receiver, run the RCA cable to the amp, then run the RCA cable from the amp to the two subs. I have a quick question though. Each sub has a left and right input. So thats four total RCA inputs (2 left and 2 right). The Receiver only has a left out and right out to the sub (Red and white). How do you suggest I hook them up? is it okay to only use the left of the left subwoofer, and the right of the right sub? Or should I split them all.

24th October 2010, 01:02 AM	#6
mike49504 diyAudio Member Join Date: Sep 2006	Are you talking about the subwoffers themselfs?? If so and they have 2 positive terminals and 2 negative terminals They are a dual voice coil subwoffer. If they are dual 4 ohm coils you would probably want to hook them up this way. Take the positive speaker wire comming from the amp and hook it to 1 positive of the speaker take the negative of the same coil and hook it to the positve of the other coil then take the negative of that coil and run it back to the amp. Do this to both subs and you will get a 4 ohm load on the amp. Since i dont think the amp you have likes a 1 ohm load but i could be wrong. If you are talking about the amp itself having 4 rca jacks on it 1 of the sets is an input from your head unit and the other is an output to hook another amp up later on. So all you would need to do is run 1 set of rca's back from the head unit and plug them into the inputs of the amp

24th October 2010, 05:13 AM	#7
crewxp diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2010	Thanks. I appreciate the patience youre taking to help me. Yeah, I was saving the subs for last. It has a red and white connector on the sub. I mistook that for a RCA. If you press the red and white connectors down, it opens up a hole to put the speaker wire in. So I just need to hook the positive and negative in from the left sub to to the positive and negative out from the amp? And do the same for the right sub? So 2 total wires total go out from each +/- on the amp? And I ran across a problem too... I have everything hooked up besides the amp and subs. I was testing the speakers and the receiver. If I turn the volume up to 16 (max volume is 50 on receiver), I hear a popping/clicking Sound. If I turn the volume up, I hear the popping and cracking sounds more often. If I turn the receiver bass up, it also comes on more often. I can't figure out why its doing that. I made sure all the receiver cramps to the deck were secure. I'm thinking It's because I left the factory tweeters on (the small speakers along the front side of the car). It seems like the audio signal goes out from the receiver, factory split in the door to the tweeter and also ran to the door speaker. I just clipped the old speakers off, cramped the new speakers to the old wire, and didn't change the tweeter because the new tweeter didn't fit. I HOPE thats why its popping. So I just need to clip off the old tweeters and leave it open? Im thinking about going to a local auto shop and asking if they can tell me why it pops (if they can do it for under 20) Here's some specs/pics/data/audio: Amp: Alpine MRP-M500 Per channel output into 4 ohms: <1% THD+N, 14.4V, 300Wx1 Per channel output into 2 ohms: <1% THD+N, 14.4V, 500Wx1 Input Inpedance: RCA IN: 20k ohms \| SP IN: 40K ohms Frequency Response: 20-200Hz Sub (2): Kicker TC10--C Normal Impedance: 4ohm Sensitivity: 93.8dB Power Handling Watts, Peak: 300 (150) RMS Receiver: KD-HDR60 Audio (Of Popping from my iPhone): http://www.crewxp.com/truck/pop.mp3 Pics: (It was too dark outside to get good sub pics, so I took a pic of the box) Sub Box: http://www.crewxp.com/truck/IMG_80.JPG My Receiver Hookup: http://www.crewxp.com/truck/IMG_77.JPG Amp Cables: http://www.crewxp.com/truck/IMG_79.JPG

24th October 2010, 08:47 PM	#8
crewxp diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2010	okay, having the car's popping issue looked at by a friend. then when i get it back in a few hours, going to try and hookup the amp and sub. hopefully no issues. do you think there will be a issue of power difference bc my amp is 500w (or 300w i think in4ohms?), and my subs are 300 (150) RMS? I wonder how I should wire it.

25th October 2010, 03:54 AM	#9
crewxp diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2010	okay. we fixed the sound popping issue. turns out it was a bad adapter that came with the speakers. The factory tweeters his/pop only at real high volumes, so im thinking of just disabling those. but my problem now is my subs. i tried testing only one sub hooked to the amp, and it seems like it barely comes on. my rear factory speakers produce more bass than than sub. am i screwed because the subs dont match the amp? Or do I just have to hookup both subs for it to work.

25th October 2010, 04:17 AM	#10
mike49504 diyAudio Member Join Date: Sep 2006	If its a mono amp (1 channel) hook both subs up both positives to the amps positive and both negatives to the amps negative and you will have a 2 oohm load which is 500 watts . There should be a gain setting on the amp where is that set to right now?

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