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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
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I recieved this amp in for repair.
I believe the orginal power supply fets were the Z44's . The IRFZ48's are whats in it now. Will theese still work with the 10 ohm gate resistors? Also Q3 thru Q10 and Q11 thru Q17 were also Z44's (orginals) and have been replaced with Z48's . And last Q25 was IRL54 which now has a IRF540A in the amp. Wondering if the Z48's will work in this amp since someone tryed repairing it before and within 15 mins in got stuck in protection mode and i have shorted transistors all thru the board now. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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The IRL version of the IRF540 is a logic level FET. The standard IRF540 may not switch on/off efficiently and may run hot.
The Z48s will probably be OK. Are the outputs shorted? If so, what are they?
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
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2 of the outputs were shorted. The orginals were the Z44's atleast thats what MTX told me. The outputs that are in the amp now are the Z48's
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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I don't have any experience with this particular model. Similar amps are very sensitive to substitute outputs. I don't know if this one is. The Z48s should be OK in the supply.
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
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Back to this amp ,
I replaced the 8 outputs back to irfz44's and the gate resistors are new. I havent messed with the bias or dc offset pots. Upon powering it up the blue light will come on for a few secs the shut off and amp will start drawing excessive current. Any ideas on what to check? |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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Have you tried removing the rectifiers to isolate the output from the power supply to see if the excessive current draw was eliminated?
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
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Pulled all rectifiers from the amp. When i power up the amp the blue light will come on for a sec then the red light comes on and stays lit and amp idles perfectly
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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Is this the amp you have:
Xtant 1001dx inside - Amp Guts
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
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Yes
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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I've never repaired one of these. What are the ICs on the riser board?
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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