Lightning Audio Storm S1.1000

m4ick · 17th September 2010, 07:28 PM

This amp suffered shorted outputs. VERY shorted outputs, they're in pieces. I have two questions about this amp.

1 - This is the second amp my friend was told was "unrepairable" that came back with parts missing. Does anyone have a power plug for this amp or know if they are even sold? The plug has ground, power and remote on it.

2 - With outputs removed, the amp powers on and I see drive signal going to both banks of outputs. One bank has nice sharp + and - swings and the other bank is VERY nasty (ripply). Each bank is driven by an MIC4420CT, is that likely the only cause of the nasty drive signal?

Perry Babin · 17th September 2010, 09:13 PM

I've never seen one of these. The MIC4420s sound like it's a Rockford design. Can you post a photo of the inside of the amp?

m4ick · 10:00 PM

Definitely Rockford judging by the MEHSA strips.

Sorry about photo quality but all I have is a camera phone.

Also, I know that it is missing a large polyester film capacitor near the output inductor, that was missing after he took it to the repair shop.

Perry Babin · 17th September 2010, 10:31 PM

Find the terminal of the output inductor that's NOT connected to the positive speaker terminal. Connect that terminal of the inductor to the negative speaker terminal with a jumper wire. Does that give you a cleaner signal on the gates of the FET?

m4ick · 18th September 2010, 12:52 AM

I'm a little confused, I've got the two leads of the inductor that are connected to the output fets and I have the BLUE OUT + and BLK GND on the other side of the inductor. BLK GND is connected to the - speaker terminal already.

Which of the 4 leads of the inductor are you talking about connecting to - speaker?

Perry Babin · 18th September 2010, 01:39 AM

The inductor probably only has 2 terminals. The other two terminals are a loop around the core to prevent the core from moving. The terminal directly connected to the output FETs is the one you need to connect to ground (chassis and speaker ground are the same).

m4ick · 18th September 2010, 01:57 AM

Yep, you are correct. One was a loop around that went nowhere. I didn't even look to see.

I thought the inductor was connected to blue and black but it's only connected to blue, the other to the outputs. We all know what happens when we assume.

So with the outputs out of circuit I am basically grounding the would be output drains.

Perry Babin · 18th September 2010, 02:02 AM

I think it's the sources but I'm not 100% sure.

m4ick · 18th September 2010, 05:06 PM

Wow, the drive signal cleaned up nicely.

What exactly does tying the inductor to ground do to make the signal clean up? Something to do with the feedback loop?

Perry Babin · 18th September 2010, 05:20 PM

There is no stable reference point until you ground the input of the inductor. You can also short the speaker terminals but it's not as effective due to the reactance of the inductor. This can only be done when the outputs are out of the circuit.

17th September 2010, 07:28 PM	#1
m4ick diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Gainesville, FL	Lightning Audio Storm S1.1000 This amp suffered shorted outputs. VERY shorted outputs, they're in pieces. I have two questions about this amp. 1 - This is the second amp my friend was told was "unrepairable" that came back with parts missing. Does anyone have a power plug for this amp or know if they are even sold? The plug has ground, power and remote on it. 2 - With outputs removed, the amp powers on and I see drive signal going to both banks of outputs. One bank has nice sharp + and - swings and the other bank is VERY nasty (ripply). Each bank is driven by an MIC4420CT, is that likely the only cause of the nasty drive signal?

17th September 2010, 09:13 PM	#2
Perry Babin diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Louisiana	I've never seen one of these. The MIC4420s sound like it's a Rockford design. Can you post a photo of the inside of the amp? __________________ Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair * Basic Car Audio Electronics * New Site * Basic Switching Power Supply Design * Basic Computer Skills << Links

17th September 2010, 10:31 PM	#4
Perry Babin diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Louisiana	Find the terminal of the output inductor that's NOT connected to the positive speaker terminal. Connect that terminal of the inductor to the negative speaker terminal with a jumper wire. Does that give you a cleaner signal on the gates of the FET? __________________ Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair * Basic Car Audio Electronics * New Site * Basic Switching Power Supply Design * Basic Computer Skills << Links

18th September 2010, 01:39 AM	#6
Perry Babin diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Louisiana	The inductor probably only has 2 terminals. The other two terminals are a loop around the core to prevent the core from moving. The terminal directly connected to the output FETs is the one you need to connect to ground (chassis and speaker ground are the same). __________________ Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair * Basic Car Audio Electronics * New Site * Basic Switching Power Supply Design * Basic Computer Skills << Links

18th September 2010, 02:02 AM	#8
Perry Babin diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Louisiana	I think it's the sources but I'm not 100% sure. __________________ Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair * Basic Car Audio Electronics * New Site * Basic Switching Power Supply Design * Basic Computer Skills << Links


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18th September 2010, 12:52 AM	#5
m4ick diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Gainesville, FL	I'm a little confused, I've got the two leads of the inductor that are connected to the output fets and I have the BLUE OUT + and BLK GND on the other side of the inductor. BLK GND is connected to the - speaker terminal already. Which of the 4 leads of the inductor are you talking about connecting to - speaker?

18th September 2010, 01:57 AM	#7
m4ick diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Gainesville, FL	Yep, you are correct. One was a loop around that went nowhere. I didn't even look to see. I thought the inductor was connected to blue and black but it's only connected to blue, the other to the outputs. We all know what happens when we assume. So with the outputs out of circuit I am basically grounding the would be output drains.

18th September 2010, 05:06 PM	#9
m4ick diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Gainesville, FL	Wow, the drive signal cleaned up nicely. What exactly does tying the inductor to ground do to make the signal clean up? Something to do with the feedback loop?

18th September 2010, 05:20 PM	#10
Perry Babin diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Louisiana	There is no stable reference point until you ground the input of the inductor. You can also short the speaker terminals but it's not as effective due to the reactance of the inductor. This can only be done when the outputs are out of the circuit. __________________ Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair * Basic Car Audio Electronics * New Site * Basic Switching Power Supply Design * Basic Computer Skills << Links

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