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Old 24th September 2010, 09:19 PM   #11
m4ick is offline m4ick  United States
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Is it normal for the output section to get noticeably warmer than the power supply side in an amp like this? They don't get HOT but definitely warmer than the other side.

One of the noise filtering capacitors near the inductor is out of circuit. I figure all that would cause is noise but not sure if it would make the outputs warm up faster. It does produce audio, by the way.
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Old 24th September 2010, 09:34 PM   #12
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The best thing to do it to replace the cap to see if anything changes. It's normal for the outputs to operate at a slightly higher temps than the power supply FETs (in some amps) but, in general, they should not get hot quickly. If they get hot quickly after replacing the capacitor, then you can do further troubleshooting.

I'm assuming that the missing cap is in the output filter for the class D section of the amp.
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Old 29th September 2010, 01:58 AM   #13
m4ick is offline m4ick  United States
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Yes, you can see in the previous photo that there is only one capacitor near the output inductor, it's 4.7uF 250V +-5%, there is also an empty space where there are cut leads in the solder joints.

If the cap was cut out because it was visually defective then maybe they both are.
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Old 29th September 2010, 03:37 AM   #14
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Perry.I really enjoy reading your post,You are quickly becoming a legand to the Car Amp repair audiance.
Keep up the good work.
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Old 30th September 2010, 01:29 AM   #15
jol50 is offline jol50  United States
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That is nothing like the older strike 1K I have, it has large bobbin wound inductors on the output. The ones that like to break off the board. Mine are the blue sink with silver cover down the middle.
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Old 2nd August 2011, 10:20 PM   #16
m4ick is offline m4ick  United States
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I haven't messed with this amp in a while mainly because I don't have power plugs for it but in either case, you were correct. After installing 2 new capacitors in the D class filter the outputs stay cool.

One question though, I ordered 4.7uF 250v caps and they are somewhat smaller than the originals. Should I be worried about their power handling capabilities even though they are both marked 250v?

Also, jol50, I have read in some RF forums about those just falling off the board, I will apply some silicone fixative to these so it doesn't happen again.
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Old 3rd August 2011, 01:29 AM   #17
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If the capacitor is a film/Mylar capacitor, it should be OK. The 10uF caps I buy from Digi-key are generally smaller than the originals they replace but I haven't had any fail yet.
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Old 3rd August 2011, 02:34 AM   #18
m4ick is offline m4ick  United States
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Thanks Perry, I'll reassemble and test it under load.
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Old 3rd August 2011, 03:29 PM   #19
jol50 is offline jol50  United States
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I used goop to glue the inductors on in the ones I have, no problems then.
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Old 3rd August 2011, 07:45 PM   #20
m4ick is offline m4ick  United States
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Being that I do not have the power plugs and I'm not really concerned about them, is there any recommendations as to how to remove power terminals and just hard wire some 8 awg directly?

I find it difficult to either remove existing solder or to heat it up enough for them to break free.
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