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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
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I have this amp in for repair.
When powering it up it draws excessive current . So i checked the outputs and found 1 to be shorted. I replaced the outputs and tryed powering it up same thing . So i replaced the drivers in the amp. Same thing it will draw excessive current. If i remove 4 of the outputs that get warm when trying to power it up the amp will come on and idle perfect. The outputs test fine. Any ideas? |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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If no one else can help, post a photo so I can see what the internals look like.
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
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I just had the same issue with the directed D800, i replaced all the IRFZ44, both irf540, and both IRF9540, and the amp was back to normal.
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
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Ill get pics up in a lil bit .
I removed the 2 outputs that get warm the amp will power up then. Heres the reading i get on the outputs In diode check. Tip36C 1-2:0.536 1-3:0.539 2-3:OL Reverse probes 1-2:OL 1-3:OL 2-3:OL Tip35C 1-2:OL 1-3:OL 2-3:OL Reverse probes 1-2:0.536 1-3:0.538 2-3:OL To me it appears the outputs are good. |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
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I also replaced both rectifiers D55/D56 near the large capacitors i believe they are a FMG22S , and a FMG22R
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
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I think i found the problem with this amp.
Someone worked on it before and had the wrong drivers in the amp and also had a tip 35c in a 36c's spot. I will update you when i switch the stuff around |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
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That was it.
Switched the output to the right one and switched the drivers that were wrong and amp is powerd up and playing perfect. |
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