Recently i tried to connect an old pioneer car amp GM4000. However, the +ve and negative wires touched and a cap was blown in the power supply. It leaked all over. I changed the cap with the same as before and cleaned up the board. Everyting else seemed to be in tack and working. However, when i connected it to my system, as i turn up the slightest volume the amp start to click and go into protect mode. Also when its connected to my car im not able to start the car...the car starts fine with out the amp.
What can be the problem and how can it be fixed?
Thanks
What can be the problem and how can it be fixed?
Thanks
Did you reverse the polarity of the voltage supplying your amp? If so, I'm afraid you will have more problems than those blown caps.
Also, the fact that you cannot start your car with the amp connected makes me wonder if you are using a fuse at the battery. This fuse is for safety and should blow if there is too much a load, such as a high enough load to prevent your battery from starting your car.
I don't know too much about vehicles, but that's my 3 cents.
Also, the fact that you cannot start your car with the amp connected makes me wonder if you are using a fuse at the battery. This fuse is for safety and should blow if there is too much a load, such as a high enough load to prevent your battery from starting your car.
I don't know too much about vehicles, but that's my 3 cents.
Have you determined why the vehicle wouldn't start with the amp connected?
Did you try it with a different speaker? A shorted speaker or shorted wiring could cause the amp to go into protection at low volume?
You need to confirm that you have sufficient power supply voltage. With your multimeter set to DC volts, the black meter probe on the ground terminal of the amp (not on the point where the ground wire connected to the vehicle) and the head unit on (so the amp will have remote voltage applied), touch the red probe alternately to the B+ and remote terminals of the amp. If the voltage is below ~11 volts on either the B+ or remote line, you need to check the wiring feeding whichever line is too low. If 'both' the B+ and remote turn-on lines are low and your battery is fully charged, you may have a bad ground connection.
Did you try it with a different speaker? A shorted speaker or shorted wiring could cause the amp to go into protection at low volume?
You need to confirm that you have sufficient power supply voltage. With your multimeter set to DC volts, the black meter probe on the ground terminal of the amp (not on the point where the ground wire connected to the vehicle) and the head unit on (so the amp will have remote voltage applied), touch the red probe alternately to the B+ and remote terminals of the amp. If the voltage is below ~11 volts on either the B+ or remote line, you need to check the wiring feeding whichever line is too low. If 'both' the B+ and remote turn-on lines are low and your battery is fully charged, you may have a bad ground connection.
Dude, when you reversed the leads you blew out the amp's power supply.
I'm quite confident the amp is looking like a short circuit and straining & draining your poor car battery, which is too loaded down to start the car.
--> Get the guy on the thread who's fixing amps to fix it!
And forget about using this amp until you do, it's toast, sorry.
I doubt the car battery had a problem if it was starting your car-although after your multiple tries, it may have a problem by now.
P.S. 1: ALWAYS have a fuse very close to the battery, even if the amp has a fuse. For one thing, it will protect you if the power wires rub through to the chassis. For another, it will protect you if you cross the wires like you did!
P.S. 2: If you connect an ohmmeter to the amp power terminals it probably (but not necessarily) reads like a short.
I'm quite confident the amp is looking like a short circuit and straining & draining your poor car battery, which is too loaded down to start the car.
--> Get the guy on the thread who's fixing amps to fix it!
And forget about using this amp until you do, it's toast, sorry.
I doubt the car battery had a problem if it was starting your car-although after your multiple tries, it may have a problem by now.
P.S. 1: ALWAYS have a fuse very close to the battery, even if the amp has a fuse. For one thing, it will protect you if the power wires rub through to the chassis. For another, it will protect you if you cross the wires like you did!
P.S. 2: If you connect an ohmmeter to the amp power terminals it probably (but not necessarily) reads like a short.
There is no engine starting battery (that I know of) that can't maintain 12v when minimal current (less than a 30 amp fuse can pass without blowing) if it's in good condition.
The battery may have a shorted cell. That will allow the battery to produce fairly significant current (enough to start the car) but the voltage won't remain near 12v when current is drawn from it.
The battery may have a shorted cell. That will allow the battery to produce fairly significant current (enough to start the car) but the voltage won't remain near 12v when current is drawn from it.
If you want to make 100% sure your battery is good or its bad drive down to a automotive store with no amp connected to your car and have them load test the battery.
That way you are 100% sure if its your battery or not.
If your battery checks fine then you have an amp problem. If it tests bad (battery) you have a bad battery and possibly a bad amp.
First things first do not have the amp hooked up in your car and go get your battery tested.
That way you are 100% sure if its your battery or not.
If your battery checks fine then you have an amp problem. If it tests bad (battery) you have a bad battery and possibly a bad amp.
First things first do not have the amp hooked up in your car and go get your battery tested.
I connected the ohmmeter and it reads as a short, the amp is also startin to get very hot......any ideaz if there iz sumtin i can change myself to make it work gd?
O resort to a technician?
In post #8, didn't you state that the amp was working perfectly?
If the amp is shorted, it would blow a 30 amp fuse instantly unless you're using a very small power wire or have a bad ground. Either way, the battery voltage would not be dragged to 9v.
There's no way to drag an engine starting battery in good condition to 9v through a 30 amp fuse.
If the amp is shorted, it would blow a 30 amp fuse instantly unless you're using a very small power wire or have a bad ground. Either way, the battery voltage would not be dragged to 9v.
There's no way to drag an engine starting battery in good condition to 9v through a 30 amp fuse.
Disconnect the speaker wires from the speaker terminals of the amp and let the amp idle. Does it heat up?
If the amp was shorted, it would immediately read precisely the same as when you touch the probes together. Increasing numbers mean you're charging/discharging the capacitors in the amp. Of course, this has to be done with the amp disconnected from the battery.
If the amp was shorted, it would immediately read precisely the same as when you touch the probes together. Increasing numbers mean you're charging/discharging the capacitors in the amp. Of course, this has to be done with the amp disconnected from the battery.
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