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myk777 8th August 2010 01:30 AM

Alpine 3527S Repair

I have had this trusty amp in my truck for the last 10 years running in 4 channel mode for my front and rear speakers, about a month ago it started acting up and would at times not turn on then while driving down the road it would randomly just come on, I found out that if I gave it a tap it would turn on/off.

I finally got around to tearing it out of the truck today and got it on the bench, I found the culprit was two large ~1w resistors just to the right of the four large power supply caps, unfortunately they're not labeled, but they had came loose from the board I assume from vibration. I took the board out and reflowed the solder around them and put it back together. The amp fired right up and turned on/off reliably and didn't shut off with any sort of tapping or shock to the board. Great I'm thinking its fixed right.

So I hooked it up on the bench and immediately noticed that the idle current was very high ~6-7amps and the amp was running so hot that I couldn't even touch it. Even though it seems to play fine in all channels with all combinations of inputs and crossover settings. Anyone have any clues on what to check now? or any schematic, couldn't seem to locate anything via searching.

Thanks for any help


myk777 8th August 2010 01:39 AM

2 Attachment(s)
Here's a few pics, the loose resistors are circled in red with the arrow pointing to them.

Perry Babin 8th August 2010 04:22 AM

The bias current may be set too high. Measure and post the DC voltage across the outer legs of each of the large white emitter resistors. Do this with no speakers or signal cables connected to the amp.

myk777 8th August 2010 06:22 AM

Thanks for your help Perry. I just measured the resistors, which I'm assuming are the 4 next to the output transistors the longer flat white ones that have 3 legs, they are labeled Hanami MPR 3W 0.1ohm J x2 the voltage values from left to right in the picture above are below measure with a Fluke 87 meter referenced to the B- terminal on the amp. Also I noticed when the amp is cold the idle current is ~13amps then settles to ~7amps when things get nice and toasty, this thing is very hot. I also checked the rail voltages via the center legs on the output transistors (or at least I think that's what it is, correct me if I'm wrong) and it seemed reasonable at roughly plus and minus 21v.






Perry Babin 8th August 2010 06:47 AM

You need to measure the DC voltage with one probe on each end of the resistor.

myk777 8th August 2010 07:09 AM

Ahhh..OK apparently I can't understand the term across...

Here are the 4 voltage values left to right in the pic above of the same resistors measured on the outer two legs of the three. Negative probe was to the left in all measurements.



Perry Babin 8th August 2010 07:21 AM

That seems to be a bit high. I'm assuming that that's approximately 0.1v and not 0.1mv.

Are there any potentiometers near the emitter resistors?

The resistors that melted out of the board may be for the 15v regulator. Are any of the 8/9 pin op-amps running hot?

myk777 8th August 2010 07:25 AM

Yes, that is ~.1v and no there are no pots anywhere on the board excepts for the user controls at the end plate. I'll go check the op amps now, I'm assuming you mean the long skinny black components with 8/9 pins, sorry not an electronics expert by any means... I do appreciate your help greatly though.


myk777 8th August 2010 07:32 AM

Yep, the four larger ones that are close to the resistors I measured earlier are smokin hot, they all are the same part number and have a small metal heatsink built in to the tops of them that is painful to touch. All the remaining smaller black IC's are not warm.


Perry Babin 8th August 2010 07:48 AM

What is the DC voltage measured between the center legs of the two output transistors for any of the channels?

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