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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
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Trying to fix for a friend and do not have much history on it. Here is what I know so far:
1. Amp powers on fine, however, I have not tried to connect any speakers or line level signal yet because.... 2. There is a visible component that is blown on the main board - it is D93, so I figured I would start here first before proceeding any further. a. D93 looks to be a capacitor but I am not sure - can anyone confirm b. Does anyone have a schematic for this amp they can forward, or, since D93 is the same as D601, 605, 606 & 607 - can anyone tell me what the value of this component is or how I use the codes to find a replacement? |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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Can you post a photo of the area where the diode is located?
Do the other diodes have ES2D printed on them?
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Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair * Basic Car Audio Electronics * New Site * Basic Switching Power Supply Design * Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
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The photos are not that clear, but the area around D93 is charred, particularly the cathode terminal from what I can tell. Yes, ES2D is printed on them.
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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With the diode removed, if the cathode pad is directly connected to the RCA shield and the anode pad is directly connected to the ground terminal of the amp, don't replace it. With that diode in place, if the ground connection for the amp is lost (or weak), the amp will try to ground through the RCA shields which could be a fire hazard. There should be a 1k ohm resistor and another diode connected in parallel with that diode, if it's like other MTX amps. The other diode will be connected with the opposite polarity.
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Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair * Basic Car Audio Electronics * New Site * Basic Switching Power Supply Design * Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
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Diode is removed and cathode pad was not even attached when trying to desolder - the pad is burnt off of board. Anode pad is in tact. Cathode end connects to R23 (1K ohm) and that trace is broken due to burnt pad. There is not another visible diode in that area that I can see. Diode itself appears to be burnt - when tested out of circuit with MM, getting beep in both directions.
MM Ohm tests returned: - Anode to GND: 1K - Cathode to GND (via R23 trace): 0.3 - Cathode appears to connect directly to GND |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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What does it read from the anode to the RCA shield?
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair * Basic Car Audio Electronics * New Site * Basic Switching Power Supply Design * Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
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Anode to RCA shield is 0.3
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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This amp was produced after they found that the other diode could cause problems. There's a good chance that 12v contacted the RCA shields and that's what burned the trace (and diode, if it's defective). The amp should work with this diode out of the circuit. The 1k resistor needs to be in the circuit. Confirm that one end is directly connected to the RCA shield and the other end is directly connected to the amplifier's ground terminal.
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Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair * Basic Car Audio Electronics * New Site * Basic Switching Power Supply Design * Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
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OK. I will verify what you mention w/o D93 installed.
If I wanted to put a non-SMB diode back in circuit (due to the pad issue), could I use a tube style diode such as an 1N5402 or 04? I'd connect the anode lead to the anode pad, the cathode lead to both R23 and the RCA shield directly. |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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Virtually any diode will work in that location.
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair * Basic Car Audio Electronics * New Site * Basic Switching Power Supply Design * Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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