Put a battery in the fluke and it reads 12volts I had the car running and tested at the battery so I knew it was wrong. Here see if this looks better.
IC#
Pin 1: .211
Pin 2: 4.71
Pin 3: .051
Pin 4: .208
Pin 5: 1.665
Pin 6: 3.538
Pin 7: 0
Pin 8: .596
Pin 9: .078
Pin 10: .078
Pin 11: .602
Pin 12: 10.07
Pin 13: 5.05
Pin 14: .026
Pin 15: .023
Pin 16: .847
Car voltage/battery 12.58 at the amp
IC#
Pin 1: .211
Pin 2: 4.71
Pin 3: .051
Pin 4: .208
Pin 5: 1.665
Pin 6: 3.538
Pin 7: 0
Pin 8: .596
Pin 9: .078
Pin 10: .078
Pin 11: .602
Pin 12: 10.07
Pin 13: 5.05
Pin 14: .026
Pin 15: .023
Pin 16: .847
Car voltage/battery 12.58 at the amp
8 and 11 need to have ~12v. What's the next component on the circuit traces as they lead away from pins 8 and 11 of the IC?
It's possible that the circuit trace should go directly back to B+ so you may have an open trace, an open feedthrough or a bad connection on a jumper wire.
It's possible that the circuit trace should go directly back to B+ so you may have an open trace, an open feedthrough or a bad connection on a jumper wire.
You should also spray all the dust off the board as it can hold moisture when there is condensation from driving with a/c on for a while and then opening doors. Use something safe for circuit boards that dries quickly. Those were pretty beefy amps, we sold them and amazingly had very few problems with the hc models.
Do you have voltage on the trace on the top of the board that connects to that point. These are vias/feedthroughs and they connect the traces on opposite sides of the board. If it's open, it would prevent the voltage from getting through the board.
Not sure I will have to put it back together to check it. But it doesn't look to me to go to the 12volt input at all.
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