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Flyin11 29th June 2010 12:16 PM

60A AGU Fueses Burning Out
(Sorry...Topic should say Fuses...not Fueses...LOL)

Hey guys....

Been a while. I still check here just about everyday but I haven't had any problems for the last 2 1/2 years with my system till the past few weeks. The first time it happened, the system was fine and played on my way into work but when I went out to go to the store during lunch, I had no bass. I had highs but that was it. I checked my fuse block and noticed that the fuse had a burnt spot in the middle of it. I move it around and the sound was playing again. I went and bought another pack of Rockford 60A AGU fuses and replaced that one and everything was good to go. The fuse still had the piece in the middle of it...It was broken. The system even had better sound and harder bass after I changed the fuse. About 3 weeks later...I had sound going to The Home Depot, but when I came out...Nothing again. This time, something actually broke inside the fuse and I had to replace that one. That one had burn marks on the left side of the fuse and the whole fuse piece was still intact...not broken. Now I see the marks on this one again. Wondering if maybe my cap has gone bad and doesn't hold it's charge anymore? Nothing else is wrong...all wires are clean, all fuses on the amps themselves are fine and I have never had any issues before.

I'm running:

2 JL Audio 12W1V2 4 ohm subs wire in parallel for a 2 ohm load
Alpine MRP-M650 Class-D (set at 500W total power - 275 per sub)
Alpine MRP-F240 for highs...pushing 4 speakers - Doors and Rear
Rockford 1.2F Capacitor
4 Gauge power wire
12 Gauge speaker wire

AGU fuse block with 60A AGU fuse for the M650 and a 30A fuse (I think...might be 25) for the F240. 4 gauge goes in and I have 4 gauge wire going out to the cap and from the cap to the M650. Other part has 8 gauge out, straight to the amp.

Both amps and Cap grounded properly.

Perry Babin 29th June 2010 01:27 PM

It could be that the fuse holder has poor contact on the endcaps. This would cause the fuse to heat up and the solder on the ends of the fusible element to break. It likely happens when it cools off because when it's hot, the metal of the element expands slightly. When it cools, it contracts and pulls away from the ends. If you have a block type fuse holder, tighten the spring clips before replacing the fuse again. If you have one of those waterproof inline fuse holders, buy a different type.

I don't know if the Rockford fuses are good quality (many of the gold plated fuses are absolute garbage). If you want good fuses, buy Bussmann or Littelfuse fuses only. They may not be gold plated but they're manufactured by a company that knows how to make fuses.

Flyin11 29th June 2010 02:30 PM

Thanks Perry :cool: The fuse holder does have some space on the ends of it after it is pressed into place. Not much but it doesn't fully go all the way across the clips. I might think about getting the mini waffle styled fuses or the Maxi fues type instead of the AGUs. I'll start to begin to do some research...

ppia600 2nd July 2010 02:21 AM

+1 on what Perry said. Change to an anl style under the hood. The maxi type are ok if you get a good brand but I'd stick with anl, way better contact and lowest resistance.

Flyin11 2nd July 2010 12:16 PM

Yeah...The fuse under the hood is perfectly fine (I think it's 90A there...Have to look and see). The problem is the fuse distribution block I have before the wires reach the amps and cap.

Regular ANL would probably work for the 60A size but they don't make a regular ANL for 30A size...Couldn't find one. The Mini ANL's they do though. So, I think I'm leaning more that way. It's kind of hard to find a distr fuse block for Midi's that has 4 gauge outputs :rolleyes: Most I see are 8 gauge. I can't do nothing about it for a couple weeks anyways...

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