Amp turning on without remote voltage.

[Perry Babin]

Remove the small electrolytic capacitor C03. Does it still cut on and off slowly?

 

[catfishermike]

It didn't come on with cap removed

 

[Perry Babin]

Reinstall the other transistor to see if it will power up and down normally.

 

[catfishermike]

Perry,C05 is slightly bulged on top.I'm getting 4.9 on the side by the tl 494 and zero coming out the other side.

 

[catfishermike]

the relay kicks in,no cycling now.

 

[Perry Babin]

Does it produce audio?

If you've unclamped the power transistors, clamp them tightly to the sink before checking for audio.

The voltage on C05 is normal.

 

[catfishermike]

Perry,I removed all of the power and output transistors as stated in my first post.There is nothing on either side of the amp.I removed everything to test out of circuit.None of my other amps click or come on till remote is connected.No power light.And if you apply b+ and remote the power light is very very dim.I hope I didn't waste your time Perry.I'm just trying to learn.

 

[catfishermike]

Ok it left out some of my reply.This amp,when you apply b+ or remote the relay kicks in.No power light.When I apply both b+ and remote the power light comes on,but,is barely visible.

 

[Perry Babin]

I think the capacitor was leaking electrically and causing the amp to turn on when it shouldn't have. I don't know how the LED is powered so I can't comment on the way it's functioning as of now. The amp may be OK if you reinstall all of the parts and replace the capacitor with a new one.

 

[catfishermike]

A friend gave this amp to me.When hooked up there was no audio.I open it up and the only visible sign of damage was a trace on the bottom of the board had gotten hot,the trace was still intact.The trace is the ground trace from the gnd that goes to the crossover and rca input board.That trace comes to the top of the board right at the C50 lettering.There is also some traces on top of the board that got hot but still intact.The trace between R223 and R219,also between R214 and R212.
So I'm using this amp to try and further my education.I'm thinking it's not the best to learn with,but,it is the only one I have.
As soon as I'm able to do so,I will be ordering your tutorial.Right now I'm reading every thread on here,and I've read your site over and over trying to commit it to memory.
I'm very appreciative of all of your help.

 

[catfishermike]

Perry,my son decided to help me out and clean the house,doing so he threw out the diagram of the parts removed.The only thing I cant recall is U04,D14,D12,Uo3,D13,D15.Would you happen to know which components went in these locations.

 

[Perry Babin]

If U03 and U04 are the regulators, the L7812 and L7912 are likely good subs. The center leg of the L7812 will be directly connected to the secondary center tap or the negative speaker terminal.

For the rectifiers, the FEP16DT and FEP16DTA are probably good subs. The FEP16DTA will go in the locations where the diode symbols on the board are facing away from each other.

If you're lucky, the engineer from Kicker will see this and respond. He'll be able to provide the exact part numbers.

 

[catfishermike]

It is using Kia 7812A AND kia 7912PI.I cant remember which one went where.And YG225C2 and YG225N2,2 of each of those.I cant remember which ones go where.This amp is using 3205's and IRF640 and 9640's.As far as I can tell they all test good.

 

[Perry Babin]

I misread the message. I thought he threw out the parts.

The following datasheet shoes the symbols for the diodes. Match the symbols to the part numbers.
YG225C2 pdf, YG225C2 description, YG225C2 datasheets, YG225C2 view ::: ALLDATASHEET :::

The center leg of the kia7812 will go to the secondary ground. The 7912 goes on the other side of the amp.