Has anybody ever gotten one of those Cheap 20 Dollar VR3 12" Woofers from Walmart?
i Bought One not Long ago....and it looks Diffrent Construction Wise than the Last one i bought last Year.
The Surround Went From Rubber to Foam
The Cone Went from Poly to Paper...with a Thin Layer of Poly on it.
The Voice Coil Went from Dual 4 Ohms to Single 4 Ohms
The Magnet on Last Years Model was Bigger...this years model has Shrunk about 3/4" and lost the Bumped T-yoke with a Smaller Pole Vent.
any Reason for the Material Changes?
i Bought One not Long ago....and it looks Diffrent Construction Wise than the Last one i bought last Year.
The Surround Went From Rubber to Foam
The Cone Went from Poly to Paper...with a Thin Layer of Poly on it.
The Voice Coil Went from Dual 4 Ohms to Single 4 Ohms
The Magnet on Last Years Model was Bigger...this years model has Shrunk about 3/4" and lost the Bumped T-yoke with a Smaller Pole Vent.
any Reason for the Material Changes?
Matter of Fact....the Voice Coil Diamater Shrunk too!....Last Year's Model had a 2" Voice Coil....this one looks like it has a 1.5" Coil.
Not that i was Expecting Much...but even for 20 Bucks its Feels like Being Cheated.....but Eh....walmart.
Could always try to set it on fire and make a video of it, at least you'd get your $20 worth of fun out of it
Nah,i think i'll hang on to it until it blows...in the 34 Dollar Walmart Woofer Box,LOL
see i do have a Habit of Buying Cheap Things and Seeing how i can Improve them.
For a cheap woofer, check the Credence loudspeaker site's clearance section. They are new/old stock but made in USA and good quality for what they are. I used spome as drop/ins for some home cabinets that I rarely use.
If you have to cheap-out, at least cheap out and support American manufacturing.
If you have to cheap-out, at least cheap out and support American manufacturing.
i might have to save up some..they have some good Looking Woofers!
Whats up with those Inner Lead's?....how do they do that?
Hmmm. Didn't notice that. I have seen/heard some of their current subs a year or so ago and they were quite nice, but for a cheap-o project I know I got some good American made 12's for around 32$ ea shipped to my door. Nothing you'd throw 500W at, but really comparable to the stuff we used to pay 100 a pop for in the early 90's.
The inner leads is sort of a different take on the direct leads that a few other manufacturers use these days (DD, AudioQue, etc.) I haven't seen anyone else running them through the pole vents, but instead of running tinsel along the spider to terminals, the 8 guage (or whatever speaker wire) is run directly to the coil. Not sure how they keep it from rubbing the former like that, but I suspect some sort of suspension system?
The inner leads is sort of a different take on the direct leads that a few other manufacturers use these days (DD, AudioQue, etc.) I haven't seen anyone else running them through the pole vents, but instead of running tinsel along the spider to terminals, the 8 guage (or whatever speaker wire) is run directly to the coil. Not sure how they keep it from rubbing the former like that, but I suspect some sort of suspension system?
Those are some nice looking USA subs. I bought a kraco DVC 10 a long time ago, got it cheap because the box was torn up at kmart. Built a BP for it tuned low, ran it on a amp hooked to my PC with some little speakers. It worked great and still works, had it on the garage stereo lately, about 2x35w home stereo in parallel. Those cheap subs can work nice for lower power use.
update: The Woofer wasn't terribly hard to bottom out,in Free Air i gave it about 80 Watts at 20 Hz and the Cheap Vr3 bottomed hard enough to Deform the Voice coil former so it continually rubbed against the Pole Piece.
at that Point and time i ripped it apart being pretty useless...maybe i can do something with the Basket?
at that Point and time i ripped it apart being pretty useless...maybe i can do something with the Basket?
Maybe you just want to drop the extra bucks on a reputable brand next time, and not support the decline of standards?
Just a thought
LOL, you better move on up to PYLES!
Given they are 15s, but I ran a 170rms amp clipping onto one on a 20Hz sine and it didn't make a noise (unmounted), was pretty close to xmax or xmech not sure...but don't think the suspension would move much more than that by the looks of it. Not beat them hard really but have not heard them crack or anything with the 500rms alpine on them so far, and I have played with them and hit at least 1" xmax on bass music. Its way too much bass of course. I wrote a bunch of stuff about them just search pyle and my threads are the only ones lol. Lots of good laughs from them too, certainly was worth that and they make great 30Hz in the car on top of that. Who could ask more for $47 shipped each. Going to stick a smaller 350rms sub amp in there soon and see if I can clip it without thrashing them, that would give me a better idea what kind of power they handle IB. I should measure the voltage they get now at least, I'm too lazy to cart my scope out to the car and hook it up. I'm scared to clip the 500rms where I actually hear it clip.
Given they are 15s, but I ran a 170rms amp clipping onto one on a 20Hz sine and it didn't make a noise (unmounted), was pretty close to xmax or xmech not sure...but don't think the suspension would move much more than that by the looks of it. Not beat them hard really but have not heard them crack or anything with the 500rms alpine on them so far, and I have played with them and hit at least 1" xmax on bass music. Its way too much bass of course. I wrote a bunch of stuff about them just search pyle and my threads are the only ones lol. Lots of good laughs from them too, certainly was worth that and they make great 30Hz in the car on top of that. Who could ask more for $47 shipped each. Going to stick a smaller 350rms sub amp in there soon and see if I can clip it without thrashing them, that would give me a better idea what kind of power they handle IB. I should measure the voltage they get now at least, I'm too lazy to cart my scope out to the car and hook it up. I'm scared to clip the 500rms where I actually hear it clip.
I'm trying for 20Hz but can't seem to make it in this car. A 20Hz tone just cranked and I get nothing but a back seat that is pulsating, windows down. I can hear 23Hz then 25Hz is fairly strong, 30Hz a little stronger and it stays there on up. That is the only reason I put a pair of 15 in, because they have lower Fs than the quad 12s I had, easier to tune, less weight, better for 20-30Hz. I don't need it super loud, but need some excessive sub stage to get that low. These 15s go louder than I use for sure, I can't hear the highs if I dial them up.
I will admit it...I love cheap subs, but you still have to get something that will perform the job; cheap subs only give so much. The Pyles are better cheap subs I guess that happened to be tuned well for IB.
I did make a BP box with a DVC Kraco sub many years ago and it worked great.
I will admit it...I love cheap subs, but you still have to get something that will perform the job; cheap subs only give so much. The Pyles are better cheap subs I guess that happened to be tuned well for IB.
I did make a BP box with a DVC Kraco sub many years ago and it worked great.
You simply need either a ton of cone area or a driver with super x-max to get 20hz with any authority. The volume you need to displace goes up dramatically as you start dropping <40hz. Trust me when I say it takes a LOT of x-max to come up with 120db at 20hz
A lot of those old style cheap drivers work just fine if you have reasonable expectations, a large box, and low power needs.
Have you ever played with the Aura Bass Shakers? They do very well in shoring up your ultra low stuff when used along with some subs. Since you don't really "hear" 20hz anyway it's quite effective if you blend them into your subs
I thought about shakers, but in reality it is working pretty good. Have a lot of work to do on the rest of it first. I wanted to port the trunk for fun, as an experiment, but I barely have room for ports so think I will work on midbass and mids for now. With ports it had a nice gain 20-25, if they actually worked like the model said. Right I think it just has no dB down there, I need even more cone area lol. If I had the trunk room I'd run quad 15s in manifolds but I can't. You can get shallow 12s for around $40 each, if one ran about 8 of those I bet that would get low. Issue is I'm sure they have a higher Fs, and you are getting into coin maybe better used on some other subs.
I ran pyramids for a long time, long ago. They worked great IB on lower power, you got a lot out of them. Sure you can get better, but for $15 each I was getting some nice 30Hz out of tens somewhat loud. That was the paper originals. They did wear out pretty fast.
I ran pyramids for a long time, long ago. They worked great IB on lower power, you got a lot out of them. Sure you can get better, but for $15 each I was getting some nice 30Hz out of tens somewhat loud. That was the paper originals. They did wear out pretty fast.
There was a line of Pyramid subs that were made by emminence about 10-15 years ago... I've blown 15$ on worse I'm sure.
Indeed for the weight/space/cost of 8 12's you could probably do a single high excursion 18 or a couple moderately strong IB specific drivers (the Acoustic Elegence woofers come to mind).
Those are the ones I used to use IB mostly, or large ported, the 10s. The paper version was better IMO but in a box it didn't matter. IB the poly had some cone noise, it was ok behind a seat but not if visible, however it didn't in a box for some reason. However, that was a long time ago they have changed them some now the surround is different not sure what else. They would only take a 2x50 to 75rms amp (on a pair or quads, 10"), though those were 12v rated amps back then. The paper version (blue cone) is getting hard to find I scored some on ebay last year from this place, here are 12s on there #200507030715 but have not used them in anything yet. I chose to get pyles instead because I wanted 15s for this car and the Fs was lower, good specs for IB, they have worked very nicely for super cheap so far. Pyle PLWB155 amazon had them cheap paid 94 for a pair shipped. I was going to try the pyramids but then could not find the 15s in blue, and they didn't model as good for 20-30Hz like I wanted. The pyles are pretty beefy, not as efficient of course, but get lower with that heavy paper cone and low Fs. I bet these pyles would not work well in a box while the pyramids could if it was not small. It depends on what you want, but for low power the pyramids can work well they got loud considering the small amp. These pyles are 15s not 10s, I have 500rms on them but don't think I use it all. I ran a 170rms amp on one unmounted and it had over 1" xmax and didn't bottom on a sine, the amp thermalled. Guess I can say I repaired the amp properly lol, it still works.
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.