I cant find an answer to this question. I bought This crossover. Deff Audio Power Acoustik C3184 3 Way Electronic Crossover
I was wondering when I install it what do I set the amps internal crossover to? I have an older KAC-927 and it has a crossover in it but its not quite giving me what I expect from my door speakers. Would it be common practice to set the amps crossover to full when using an electronic crossover, or do I set the onboard to something different? also what would I set the xover point on the class D mono block? I am guessing because monoblock doesnt have a full would I just match them? or set to highest on amp and fine tune with electronic Xover?
Also I have an eq. Would I run 2 sets of rca's to this crossover, Or just the set comming off the eq? My eq is an older kenwood and only has 1 set of rcas (In and out). Should I just op out the eq, place it just for the highs, or tie everything to it?
PS: I plan on hooking all 4 (front and rear) speakers to this amp. Tied 2 per channel @ 2ohms, and possibly using a smaller amp for tweeters (maybe smallest amp I can find)
I was wondering when I install it what do I set the amps internal crossover to? I have an older KAC-927 and it has a crossover in it but its not quite giving me what I expect from my door speakers. Would it be common practice to set the amps crossover to full when using an electronic crossover, or do I set the onboard to something different? also what would I set the xover point on the class D mono block? I am guessing because monoblock doesnt have a full would I just match them? or set to highest on amp and fine tune with electronic Xover?
Also I have an eq. Would I run 2 sets of rca's to this crossover, Or just the set comming off the eq? My eq is an older kenwood and only has 1 set of rcas (In and out). Should I just op out the eq, place it just for the highs, or tie everything to it?
PS: I plan on hooking all 4 (front and rear) speakers to this amp. Tied 2 per channel @ 2ohms, and possibly using a smaller amp for tweeters (maybe smallest amp I can find)
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Bypass them, and if you can't bypass, make sure the crossover is well within its bandwidth.
The crossover should be the last thing before the amps, so it'd go head unit -> EQ -> Xover. One set of RCAs to the Xover.
It only makes sense to use something like this if you're running multiple amps for the front speakers, or at least have amplification for each set of drivers (midbasses & tweets, for example). If it were me, I'd ditch the rear speakers & get a smaller amp for the tweets like you mention.
Tuning an active setup isn't easy at first, but the results are well worth it IMO
The crossover should be the last thing before the amps, so it'd go head unit -> EQ -> Xover. One set of RCAs to the Xover.
It only makes sense to use something like this if you're running multiple amps for the front speakers, or at least have amplification for each set of drivers (midbasses & tweets, for example). If it were me, I'd ditch the rear speakers & get a smaller amp for the tweets like you mention.
Tuning an active setup isn't easy at first, but the results are well worth it IMO
That xover looks to be setup for sub/front/rear, it can do a sub/mid/high but has no LP to bandpass the mid but you could get around that. If you want to run front and rear passive comps or coax, its fine and run the EQ before all of it I would recommend, though you can put it in only on the fronts if you want to use the head unit fader. Since the EQ can't fade you would be left with setting the front and rear amp gains to do that or buy an RCA fader of some kind, if you run EQ before the crossover.
Far as amp crossovers, they are the same thing as what you have, you can turn them off as most do to possibly get a cleaner signal through the amp with no filters. For a sub amp just set it high as it goes, or high as you would ever run subs. If you run at 80Hz say just set it to 150 or better and you will not notice it. If you also set the amp to 80Hz, you add the two slopes together at 80, it will cut it off faster. Note you need to use tones or something to determine where 80 actually is because the printing on amps and crossovers is rarely exact.
If you wanted to run active and rears and your HU has front & rear, you could run the front mid/high and sub with the crossover, then the rear off the HU to run rears and use an amp crossover to HP them at 80 or whatever. If you wanted suggestions I'd just say get a new HU with a crossover in it, but note that most can only do front/rear or mid high along with sub and not both. Anyway, you can run no processors at all since most active HU also have an EQ in them.
Far as amp crossovers, they are the same thing as what you have, you can turn them off as most do to possibly get a cleaner signal through the amp with no filters. For a sub amp just set it high as it goes, or high as you would ever run subs. If you run at 80Hz say just set it to 150 or better and you will not notice it. If you also set the amp to 80Hz, you add the two slopes together at 80, it will cut it off faster. Note you need to use tones or something to determine where 80 actually is because the printing on amps and crossovers is rarely exact.
If you wanted to run active and rears and your HU has front & rear, you could run the front mid/high and sub with the crossover, then the rear off the HU to run rears and use an amp crossover to HP them at 80 or whatever. If you wanted suggestions I'd just say get a new HU with a crossover in it, but note that most can only do front/rear or mid high along with sub and not both. Anyway, you can run no processors at all since most active HU also have an EQ in them.
Rear
Thanks for the quick responses. why do alot of people think rears are bad? My radio does have 2 pairs of rca's out (front/Rear), and my laptop is fed to a barrel adapter that allows me to use the changer input as aux. So if reading this right the best solution is to run the front, tweets, and sub together on the crossover and the rears on separate amp separate from everything? I have diamond crossovers currently and the amp is connected to those and there is a raf which said stands for rear accustic fill. (see attachment) Went electronic because all over the net they say electronic is cleaner then passive. the eq is old and a bit janky, however the radio only has settings for bass, mid, and treble. Nothing for each band respectivly. My first install I was using the eq to cut frequencys to the vocal amp, and had the monoblock tied tirectly to the headunit... but everyone told me this was wrong everything should go through the eq. I guess back to my original question what would be the best possible setting to have vocals scream with bass. Currently my bass is rattling the car, I like the bass loud thus why I didnt turn amp down any lower, just want clear, screaming vocals..
Also what if I just tied all 4 to this amp 2 speakers a channel. The amp will produce more power at 2ohm.
and finally what would be some good crossover settings for each? were talking not the best (meijer dual) coax, which I will be upgrading..
Thanks for the quick responses. why do alot of people think rears are bad? My radio does have 2 pairs of rca's out (front/Rear), and my laptop is fed to a barrel adapter that allows me to use the changer input as aux. So if reading this right the best solution is to run the front, tweets, and sub together on the crossover and the rears on separate amp separate from everything? I have diamond crossovers currently and the amp is connected to those and there is a raf which said stands for rear accustic fill. (see attachment) Went electronic because all over the net they say electronic is cleaner then passive. the eq is old and a bit janky, however the radio only has settings for bass, mid, and treble. Nothing for each band respectivly. My first install I was using the eq to cut frequencys to the vocal amp, and had the monoblock tied tirectly to the headunit... but everyone told me this was wrong everything should go through the eq. I guess back to my original question what would be the best possible setting to have vocals scream with bass. Currently my bass is rattling the car, I like the bass loud thus why I didnt turn amp down any lower, just want clear, screaming vocals..
Also what if I just tied all 4 to this amp 2 speakers a channel. The amp will produce more power at 2ohm.
and finally what would be some good crossover settings for each? were talking not the best (meijer dual) coax, which I will be upgrading..
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So how would I get around this? what makes that feature unique? I have a small 50w that I could use for tweets, and respectivly use the kac-927 for mids, but how would I get around this lp to bandpass. By that do you mean using another amp connected to the rears on radio byitself?
too late
Well its a little too late, because I ordered the electric crossover, and have them diamond passive crossovers listed on creigslist. I dont like passive crossovers because they blow up under hipower. For some reason everytime I use them and get into a mood to distort blast my music they fry. I know its not good thing to do, but everyone at some point have pushed their system way beyond its limits. Its like saying no one ever speeds LMAO!. But these were some questions before I do the install. I want to fully understand how electronic crossover work so I dont run into problems... I didnt see anywhere on the net talking about when using an electronic crossover what to set the amps internals at. Basically I am after info on getthing the crossover I purchased above to work with the components I already have to top performance, and be able to expand later.. No harm intended
Well its a little too late, because I ordered the electric crossover, and have them diamond passive crossovers listed on creigslist. I dont like passive crossovers because they blow up under hipower. For some reason everytime I use them and get into a mood to distort blast my music they fry. I know its not good thing to do, but everyone at some point have pushed their system way beyond its limits. Its like saying no one ever speeds LMAO!. But these were some questions before I do the install. I want to fully understand how electronic crossover work so I dont run into problems... I didnt see anywhere on the net talking about when using an electronic crossover what to set the amps internals at. Basically I am after info on getthing the crossover I purchased above to work with the components I already have to top performance, and be able to expand later.. No harm intended
Active does the same thing as passive, just at the low power point before the amp. This way the amp does not waste effort making sound that you don't want, but mostly you can change them in the fly. Band pass is cutting the bass and treble from a mid. You could run an amp that had a high low pass that would do this, or use an inductor/etc passive to do that. Some mids might not need it.
Anything you do active you need another amp, so you would need mid and high amp front, full range rear, sub amp....or of course a four channel for two sets.
You will just damage stuff and sound nasty clipping the amps, just get larger ones....though you may get mad at yourself in 20yr when you start hearing funny sounds all the time.
Its not that hard to set up, and you can buy used ones cheap if you need more. Tinkering with the settings and getting them just right is tuning and can be the hard part.
Anything you do active you need another amp, so you would need mid and high amp front, full range rear, sub amp....or of course a four channel for two sets.
You will just damage stuff and sound nasty clipping the amps, just get larger ones....though you may get mad at yourself in 20yr when you start hearing funny sounds all the time.
Its not that hard to set up, and you can buy used ones cheap if you need more. Tinkering with the settings and getting them just right is tuning and can be the hard part.
cool, yea I read exactly that, that because your crossing over before its amplified you have cleaner signals. My only other question now is my amps crossover dont have bandpass either, But either full, low, and high.. So how would I accomplish getting the speakers to produce vocals and mids only between the new crossover that is comming and the ones in the amp? also when using a crossover before the amp, what would gains on amp be set at? Could I max them, and use the crossover to adjust all my amps vs pulling everything apart when I need to up or down the gain? Thank you ALL for taking the time to help me fully understand my options
Listen to Glowbug and jol50 a good radio will do everything that Crossover can do and more and a good amp example (Alpine/fosgate/zapco/arc audio) if you want clean sound and don't put your mids & tweets at a 2ohm load the amp is just going to clip faster and your going to get distortion at mid to high volume and invest in a good Component System and you will be happy here a example i have the Diamond Audio M5 Component System two sets hook to fosgate 800a2 to each set it is very loud and clear at 4ohm it like being at a concert in the front row the only Crossover i am using is built in to my Pioneer DEH-6800MP so my advice is listen to these guys and take your time and you will get what you want .Just dont buy junk audio you wont get what you want out of it.
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Yea I understand getting a new headunit would be the best upgrade, along with some new component speakers, but working with what I got, and the added crossover I am trying to reach optimal results. I need get another 4channel and put all 4 speaker separate (good point). But I really like the way the radio works and learned all the controls, Dont want to get a new deck just yet as this one does everything I need at the moment (IE: laptop in & capable of playing mp3z) Learning active requires separate amps, I am wonder how much power is average for tweeters, and how to set crossover (the one i stupily bought) to make the system sound its best with what i've already got to work with
PS: I have this radio too
http://esupport.sony.com/US/perl/model-documents.pl?mdl=CDXFW570®ion_id=1
looking @ specs on this sony, i see there is option for
HPF = 78Hz, 125Hz, Or Off
LPF = 78Hz, 125Hz, or Off
the one in my car is
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_6438_Kenwood+KDC-MP332.html
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I had some large (and I mean tall) Sony home component speakers. I love the way the vocals sound. Took them out and they are 4ohm via tester. How can I tell how many vocal watts these can handle? Before I buy new components I am going to try these in there as the cabinents got ruined due to basement flooding... Pretaining to crossover points how can one determine what these were originally crossed at? I love the vocals they produce. I know I am cheap, disabled and cant work anymore .. So I try stupid stuff like this to keep my mind busy
.. So I try stupid stuff like this to keep my mind busyAttachments
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bi-amp
Just re-reading your post. Guess I could always use mono for bass, kac-927 for the fronts, the small one I pictured for the tweets as a starting point, then later add an additional amp directly to the HU for the rear fill as the rear speakers are cheap dual that light up and are more for show anyways. Would this be optimal setup till I get a new head unit? Could always sell them together (HU & crossover) to add towards the cost of a better radio. Just went crossover because I dont want to get stuck with certain radios that have crossovers strictly.... Anyways thanks for all of your brilliant responses, I know in the future to ask here before I spend money. Although I did repair my mono block so that saved on costs
ALso u mention using a tone, I have a bass cd with them, but how do you know when its @ say 80Hz? Digital Multimeter? Ear?
Should I just send that xover back and buy this one?
http://www.amazon.com/BX55-Electronic-Crossover-Subwoofer-Control/dp/B0002VMT24http://www.amazon.com/Lanzar-OPTIX10-Optidrive-Channel-Crossover/dp/B000CHPJHU
Just re-reading your post. Guess I could always use mono for bass, kac-927 for the fronts, the small one I pictured for the tweets as a starting point, then later add an additional amp directly to the HU for the rear fill as the rear speakers are cheap dual that light up and are more for show anyways. Would this be optimal setup till I get a new head unit? Could always sell them together (HU & crossover) to add towards the cost of a better radio. Just went crossover because I dont want to get stuck with certain radios that have crossovers strictly.... Anyways thanks for all of your brilliant responses, I know in the future to ask here before I spend money. Although I did repair my mono block so that saved on costs
ALso u mention using a tone, I have a bass cd with them, but how do you know when its @ say 80Hz? Digital Multimeter? Ear?
Should I just send that xover back and buy this one?
http://www.amazon.com/BX55-Electronic-Crossover-Subwoofer-Control/dp/B0002VMT24http://www.amazon.com/Lanzar-OPTIX10-Optidrive-Channel-Crossover/dp/B000CHPJHU
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Diamond M5
You didnt need the passive crossover that come with the m5? I believe those are the ones I have installed. Dont have the m5's anymore but still have the crossovers
You didnt need the passive crossover that come with the m5? I believe those are the ones I have installed. Dont have the m5's anymore
but still have the crossoversBandpass filter
I found this one which appears to have a bandpass filter like these radio have
http://www.amazon.com/BX55-Electronic-Crossover-Subwoofer-Control/dp/B0002VMT24
Should I get this one instead? I post because I dont want to order it like i Did the last one, and it be lacking something. I am sure I can always sell the original one online or ebay as it is new.. But will this do everything the builtin ones on the radio do?
I found this one which appears to have a bandpass filter like these radio have
http://www.amazon.com/BX55-Electronic-Crossover-Subwoofer-Control/dp/B0002VMT24
Should I get this one instead? I post because I dont want to order it like i Did the last one, and it be lacking something. I am sure I can always sell the original one online or ebay as it is new.. But will this do everything the builtin ones on the radio do?
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was doing some researh! couldnt I set the crossover I purchased to act as a low pass, and the amps internal to act as a high pass thus creating a bandpass for my mids? or vice versa? then connect the sub, and tweets to the crossover, thus triamping? or would I have better chances with the one I posted above?
Downloaded the manual for that boss crossover this is exactly what I want to accomplish. Can someone confirm? Also all the radio's I looked at have set filters, None have the old school variable settings. Then again I could be wrong. If I went this configuration, Then that only leaves rears and I could always add a small amp to give small amount of full rear sound, possibly even using the full comming out of the headunit correct?
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House speakers in car
Well I Installed them today. They dont sound that bad.. I still need help on my above question of the crossover so I dont blow these.. Anyone?
Also added a utube video of the install if anyone is actually curious how these sound. Might take a while 4 video to be processed by utube
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nttUY6stGZQ
Well I Installed them today. They dont sound that bad.. I still need help on my above question of the crossover so I dont blow these.. Anyone?
Also added a utube video of the install if anyone is actually curious how these sound. Might take a while 4 video to be processed by utube
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nttUY6stGZQ
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