I have another one of theese amp in for repair.
The problem im having is when the board is in the sink the realy makes strange noises and when u try to hook a speaker to it sparks fly out of the output terminals and amp goes into protection.
With the board out of the sink the relay still makes noise but it will produce audio I checked to see if anything was shorted against the sink but cant find anything.
wondering what this might be?
The problem im having is when the board is in the sink the realy makes strange noises and when u try to hook a speaker to it sparks fly out of the output terminals and amp goes into protection.
With the board out of the sink the relay still makes noise but it will produce audio I checked to see if anything was shorted against the sink but cant find anything.
wondering what this might be?
I don't know if the 640Ns will work. They should but there's no way to know without trying them.
How many shorted in each half of the amp? The amp will run with one or two missing as long as you have at least one 640 and one 9640 on each side. If you have one half of the amp with no blown FETs, remove all of the defective FETs from the other half and try both driver boards in the side of the amp with a full bank of FETs. That would let you know if either driver board is defective. Then you could try the 640Ns in the other side of the amp. If they work, they may be a good sub. Of course, if there's no reason to rush the repair, it would be best to order the correct part.
It's best to allow the filter caps to drain off completely before installing/removing the driver boards. In some instances, the charge in the filter caps can cause the outputs to blow when making/breaking the connections on the board.
How many shorted in each half of the amp? The amp will run with one or two missing as long as you have at least one 640 and one 9640 on each side. If you have one half of the amp with no blown FETs, remove all of the defective FETs from the other half and try both driver boards in the side of the amp with a full bank of FETs. That would let you know if either driver board is defective. Then you could try the 640Ns in the other side of the amp. If they work, they may be a good sub. Of course, if there's no reason to rush the repair, it would be best to order the correct part.
It's best to allow the filter caps to drain off completely before installing/removing the driver boards. In some instances, the charge in the filter caps can cause the outputs to blow when making/breaking the connections on the board.
1 9640 and 1 640 were bad on 1 side of the amp . I replaced all of the outputs on that side. Put 1 driver board in and amp powerd on fine and No Dc on the outputs. As soon as i installed the other one Problems started again.
52 volts Of Dc on the outouts and relay squeals again.
So now i know theres a problem in the driver board. Is there a common problem with them? Or do i need to check all the transistors and resistors , diodes on the board?
52 volts Of Dc on the outouts and relay squeals again.
So now i know theres a problem in the driver board. Is there a common problem with them? Or do i need to check all the transistors and resistors , diodes on the board?
If all of the driver boards work OK on one side but cause problems on the other side, I'd suspect defective gate resistors or a bad connection in the socket.
If there is no DC on the outputs and no excessive current draw when the driver board is in the working half of the amp, it's likely a bad connection in the socket.
That op-amp appears to be OK.
If there is no DC on the outputs and no excessive current draw when the driver board is in the working half of the amp, it's likely a bad connection in the socket.
That op-amp appears to be OK.
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