Go Back   Home > Forums > General Interest > Car Audio
Home Forums Rules Articles Store Gallery Blogs Register Donations FAQ Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 24th April 2010, 09:47 AM   #1
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Default Phoenix Gold MPS-2240

Can anyone help with Phoenix Gold MPS-2240 schematic diagram?I want to rebuild that old amp!
  Reply With Quote
Old 24th April 2010, 12:01 PM   #2
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
Onemoreamp is the PG guy but if you can define what you mean by 'rebuild', it may help him to better answer your question.
  Reply With Quote
Old 24th April 2010, 06:18 PM   #3
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Want to change smps trafo,replace sg2525a with tl494 to increase supply voltage and output power.And if needed replace other elements to fit higher voltage.And there are three pieces of optocoupler 4n35,so its very difficult without schematic diagram to understand what else should i change for my needs.So if anybody have schematic diagram,please help!Thanks in advance!
  Reply With Quote
Old 24th April 2010, 07:58 PM   #4
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Northern California
Thank You Perry

The opto-couplers provide isolated voltage sensing feedback to the supply so it can control the rail supply, and they also trigger muting and over power shutdown functions . This explains all three opto's inside the power supply circuit. To be exact see below:

OP1 is the DC output detection and feedback isolation opto and it turns on the overload led when the amp is over driven and produces DC output above a given level.

OP2 has its LED side across the 15 volt rails and when these rails are on and equal his signals the Sg2525 at pin 1 that all is OK and the supply operates normally. Without this the amp faults offline.

OP3 is a isolated turn on from the turn on lead that operates turn on muting functions of the amp so you don't get THUMP when it is turned on.

Most all of these functions are very necessary for the amp to operate properly and as designed. And are all hallmarks if a quality noise free feedback design used by most all high end amp makers. So nothing special here and without these devices in circuit and working you now lack noise immunity from the 12 volt power supply side and lower the overall quality and SQ of the amp to that of a flea market amp.

Changing to a 494 will not increase amp output unless you tear out the whole supply and start over from scratch. < this is not a pretty thought since these amps work so well as built and the circuit board will not accommodate such a major circuitry change without completely destroying its gold plated beauty. I Strongly advise against such a maneuver

If you simply want to change the output rails supply then you must understand that this The toroid windings are something special and they must be added to to raise output power and voltage above a small level of increase. I have done a 2220 to 2240 upgrade before and I played with taking it to a 275 level. And I succeeded but it was a huge time sink and just a pet project I did for fun.

So unless you want to rewind the toroid with custom windings your not going to be able to raise the supply rails much and the limits I am aware of are about +&-37 volts to each main large cap. And this is different for each models toroid as they all use a different set of windings. A simple low level < +&- 5 volt rise can be had by simply changing a single zener diode. But this will only unlimit the original toroid, and once this is done you will see the voltage drop off under load fairly quickly.


Might I ask you what you actually intend to try and achieve for a output increase ?

This amp has its limits and those limits are mostly set by the sink weight and surface area design. This is why PG stop this amp design at 75 watts per channel at 4 ohms. And 250 watts Mono at 4 ohms, or 2 ohm stereo. The heatsink is part of the design limitation of this amp model, and 125 watts per output pair are also the SOA limits of the Toshiba output devices.


PS you might also notice that the output transistors are using +&-21 volts and the whole amp before them are at +&-29 volts typical no load. The outputs are on a lower rail then the rest of the amp. Its design\ed to work this way, like many other amps on the market.

I am gonna let you chew on this for a while and get back to me.....
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
need help with phoenix gold xs2300 fbc Car Audio 5 10th February 2010 04:36 PM
Help with Phoenix Gold EQ215x Messerschmitt Car Audio 3 27th April 2008 05:55 PM
Phoenix Gold TI500.4 Bertje Car Audio 4 29th November 2006 08:18 PM
Phoenix Gold MS2125 Ques. shallowfu Car Audio 22 16th November 2006 09:44 PM
Phoenix Gold, worth considering??? Javaman Multi-Way 3 30th January 2002 10:31 PM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 07:58 PM.

Page generated in 0.09320 seconds (78.63% PHP - 21.37% MySQL) with 10 queries

Copyright ©1999-2012 diyAudio