I say "should be an easy fix" because....
Well....the amps works great. But its a problem Im having with the plug in module. Yep, took the amp apart...cleaned and resoldered the module socket to main board connections....cleaned the contacts on the module socket and module. melted solder on the pads of the module and filed down for a smooth flat connection.
Now, I go to plug in the ZXR module and it seems like Im getting DC current to my sub (S10L7 @ 2ohm). The sub moves to almost full excursion and the ampp starts to heat up. At first I could wiggle the module and it would sometimes work right....sometimes go to full excursion.
I have another ZR240 with a ZXR module, and it works like a CHAMP in the faulty amp.....Must be an issue with the ZRX module.
Ive looked for cracks in the module board, cold solder joints (Ive went over each component melting and checking connection, except the two small chips....my tip is too fat
) Nothing seems out of the ordinary to me. Ive got continuity from the pads to the first component on each pad also.
its got me stumped....well, not really....I could try to find another ZRX to replace the bad one, but they are pretty expensive these days.
Ive got a third ZR-240 and one will be moved to my mids and highs....so Even a "pin-out" of the module connector, schematic of the module or hand drawn document would help me BYPASS the whole module.
I used to have a ZR240 with a full pass module... no components... just jumper module pretty much.... I wish I still had it that way I could know wich contacts need to be jumped in order for it to play full pass.
ANY info on wiring, a picture of the full pass module (top and bottom), or helpfull information is GREATLY appreciated !
I know there are some OS kicker guys floating around
Well....the amps works great. But its a problem Im having with the plug in module. Yep, took the amp apart...cleaned and resoldered the module socket to main board connections....cleaned the contacts on the module socket and module. melted solder on the pads of the module and filed down for a smooth flat connection.
Now, I go to plug in the ZXR module and it seems like Im getting DC current to my sub (S10L7 @ 2ohm). The sub moves to almost full excursion and the ampp starts to heat up. At first I could wiggle the module and it would sometimes work right....sometimes go to full excursion.
I have another ZR240 with a ZXR module, and it works like a CHAMP in the faulty amp.....Must be an issue with the ZRX module.
Ive looked for cracks in the module board, cold solder joints (Ive went over each component melting and checking connection, except the two small chips....my tip is too fat
) Nothing seems out of the ordinary to me. Ive got continuity from the pads to the first component on each pad also.its got me stumped....well, not really....I could try to find another ZRX to replace the bad one, but they are pretty expensive these days.
Ive got a third ZR-240 and one will be moved to my mids and highs....so Even a "pin-out" of the module connector, schematic of the module or hand drawn document would help me BYPASS the whole module.
I used to have a ZR240 with a full pass module... no components... just jumper module pretty much.... I wish I still had it that way I could know wich contacts need to be jumped in order for it to play full pass.
ANY info on wiring, a picture of the full pass module (top and bottom), or helpfull information is GREATLY appreciated !
I know there are some OS kicker guys floating around
AWESOME ! Thats what I needed to know ! But would still like as much info as I can get. Im finally at a point in my life where I can afford some of the things I used to drool over.
Perry seems like the go to guy around here....Ive been lurking for a few days and he seems to be very knowledgable. Id like to hear about his technical history. Ive been a liscensed Amature Radio operator for a while and have made small change working on and building RF tube amplifiers for many moons. Im not the sharpest tool in the shed, but my persistance is my virtue
I was troubleshooting for an open input ground causing the issue on the module, but things seemed tidy as far as connections went. I dont beleave its oscillating at all....and my ol' trust Heathkit scope went to hell about three months ago...sigh. I would imagine that its right at the first stages on the module...as it seems there are separate circuits for each channel, and neither work. The signal doesnt seem to be combined anywhere for each channel for that matter (wich makes sense to me.
Ive also checked out the switch for X-over type (high/mid/low) and all seems well there. By the way.....highpass and full pass seems to work OK but sound somewhat distorted with small "pops" and "cracks" in the audio output.
Also...while reading about other type modules....I see that signal is also sent back out to the "output RCA's" through the module connections. Im pondering trying to get the signal from my first 240 (LP filtered signal) to route through its "output RCA's" to the input of the modified 240.... Any help on that idea ?
That seems like it would make a nice clean setup....Im NOT wanting to spring for another module....Im pretty much Ant-module purchase for sure
Perry seems like the go to guy around here....Ive been lurking for a few days and he seems to be very knowledgable. Id like to hear about his technical history. Ive been a liscensed Amature Radio operator for a while and have made small change working on and building RF tube amplifiers for many moons. Im not the sharpest tool in the shed, but my persistance is my virtue
I was troubleshooting for an open input ground causing the issue on the module, but things seemed tidy as far as connections went. I dont beleave its oscillating at all....and my ol' trust Heathkit scope went to hell about three months ago...sigh. I would imagine that its right at the first stages on the module...as it seems there are separate circuits for each channel, and neither work. The signal doesnt seem to be combined anywhere for each channel for that matter (wich makes sense to me
. Ive also checked out the switch for X-over type (high/mid/low) and all seems well there. By the way.....highpass and full pass seems to work OK but sound somewhat distorted with small "pops" and "cracks" in the audio output.
Also...while reading about other type modules....I see that signal is also sent back out to the "output RCA's" through the module connections. Im pondering trying to get the signal from my first 240 (LP filtered signal) to route through its "output RCA's" to the input of the modified 240.... Any help on that idea ?
That seems like it would make a nice clean setup....Im NOT wanting to spring for another module....Im pretty much Ant-module purchase for sure
If you don't have a scope, make something like the 'device' in the attached photo. If the LEDs light up, the amp is oscillating. You'd connect it across the speaker terminals. Notice that the LEDs are in 'reverse' parallel.
In the second two photos, you can see how the outer two terminals on the bottom row (looking in the amp with the cover off) are connected together. Maybe the low pass is sent out of those two pins to the output RCA jacks. You could check it with your working module.
In the second two photos, you can see how the outer two terminals on the bottom row (looking in the amp with the cover off) are connected together. Maybe the low pass is sent out of those two pins to the output RCA jacks. You could check it with your working module.
Attachments
Yes it does. High pass and bypass work OK. Seems only Lowpass makes the sub want to jump out the front of the sub...lol
I now know at the least wich pins jump the module...thats good. Now, If I can get the module fixed.....Ill be even better !
Well, I did some poking around in it today. Figured out how to send the filtered input signal back to the output RCA's. Works great ! What can I say....Ive got ALOT of spare time and no spare change
I did a couple paintbrush pics to maybe help others and explain it all in one or two pics.
Perry, if you see any flaws in the way I did this...or potential problems... please let me know. In my head it seems straight forward, but I was reading 100 ohms in there somewhere...wondering if that is like a "swamped input" ? We sometimes use those in low drive RF amps.
Heres the pics...im not the best paintbrusher BTW.
I did a couple paintbrush pics to maybe help others and explain it all in one or two pics.
Perry, if you see any flaws in the way I did this...or potential problems... please let me know. In my head it seems straight forward, but I was reading 100 ohms in there somewhere...wondering if that is like a "swamped input" ? We sometimes use those in low drive RF amps.
Heres the pics...im not the best paintbrusher BTW.
The only problem I see is that there is too much solder on the contacts. It may stress the spring contacts on the riser board connector which may prevent it from working properly when you use a module without solder on it.
You have plenty of time? Download GIMP and learn to use it. It's infinitely better than MS Paint and it's in your price range.
GIMP - Downloads
You have plenty of time? Download GIMP and learn to use it. It's infinitely better than MS Paint and it's in your price range.
GIMP - Downloads
Those pics were "pre-filed" era
Sounds fine, Ive got about 1 hour of listening time in today....no bad habits or anything like that. I was worried that sharing one filtered signal for two loads would split my input drive levels.....but everything seems to be fine. Volume seems comparable to the original setup.
Thanks Onemoreamp for the tease.....Ive got room for two or three if they ever get in your way The modification is easilly reversed....I tried to pick a good spot to cut the traces for easy reversal. Maybe one of these days.... Ill get a little spare change set back for a nice SWX module.
This was kinda a learning experience too... always liked taking stuff apart and figuring out how it works.... My fair share of "magic smoke" has been released...LOL. The high-pass and by-pass work fine on the module....so, really.....truth be known....Ill end up reversing this mod and chalk it up as good knowlegde for future use once I get the last of my three 240's back from loaner duty (tomarrow). Ill delegate the bad module to high-end duty and be done for a while.
Sounds fine, Ive got about 1 hour of listening time in today....no bad habits or anything like that. I was worried that sharing one filtered signal for two loads would split my input drive levels.....but everything seems to be fine. Volume seems comparable to the original setup.
Thanks Onemoreamp for the tease.....Ive got room for two or three if they ever get in your way
The modification is easilly reversed....I tried to pick a good spot to cut the traces for easy reversal. Maybe one of these days.... Ill get a little spare change set back for a nice SWX module.This was kinda a learning experience too... always liked taking stuff apart and figuring out how it works.... My fair share of "magic smoke" has been released...LOL. The high-pass and by-pass work fine on the module....so, really.....truth be known....Ill end up reversing this mod and chalk it up as good knowlegde for future use once I get the last of my three 240's back from loaner duty (tomarrow). Ill delegate the bad module to high-end duty and be done for a while.
I have most all of the modules including remote bass gain, Yes I am that old And I have seen more then my share of this series of Kicker amps that use them, especially the 1000's which all fail horribly in the wrong hands.
Don't worry I have no real need for these crossover modules and if you want one you know where and how to reach me. Best of luck on your projects...
Oh Gad-zuks I still own a 240 myself
And I have seen more then my share of this series of Kicker amps that use them, especially the 1000's which all fail horribly in the wrong hands.Don't worry I have no real need for these crossover modules and if you want one you know where and how to reach me. Best of luck on your projects...
Oh Gad-zuks I still own a 240 myself
if you have a swx, you could use a 60hz chip, iirc....... yup, just checked real quick, i have a swx with 60hz lp chips in it richeer. otherwise, if you just have the stock bypass, you could use an external cross-over.
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