Kicker ZR 240 problems, should be simple fix

[cavhooah]

I say "should be an easy fix" because....

Well....the amps works great. But its a problem Im having with the plug in module. Yep, took the amp apart...cleaned and resoldered the module socket to main board connections....cleaned the contacts on the module socket and module. melted solder on the pads of the module and filed down for a smooth flat connection.

Now, I go to plug in the ZXR module and it seems like Im getting DC current to my sub (S10L7 @ 2ohm). The sub moves to almost full excursion and the ampp starts to heat up. At first I could wiggle the module and it would sometimes work right....sometimes go to full excursion.

I have another ZR240 with a ZXR module, and it works like a CHAMP in the faulty amp.....Must be an issue with the ZRX module.

Ive looked for cracks in the module board, cold solder joints (Ive went over each component melting and checking connection, except the two small chips....my tip is too fat ) Nothing seems out of the ordinary to me. Ive got continuity from the pads to the first component on each pad also.

its got me stumped....well, not really....I could try to find another ZRX to replace the bad one, but they are pretty expensive these days.

Ive got a third ZR-240 and one will be moved to my mids and highs....so Even a "pin-out" of the module connector, schematic of the module or hand drawn document would help me BYPASS the whole module.

I used to have a ZR240 with a full pass module... no components... just jumper module pretty much.... I wish I still had it that way I could know wich contacts need to be jumped in order for it to play full pass.


ANY info on wiring, a picture of the full pass module (top and bottom), or helpfull information is GREATLY appreciated !


I know there are some OS kicker guys floating around

[cavhooah]

Even a nice explaination of what contacts are input/output and ground would be great too !

If I cant get it figured out soon.....Ill get me some ribbon cable and feed both amps off of one module They are sink' linked anyway.

[I Am An Idiot]

To bypass the module, on the circuit board that the module plugs into, short the top leftmost pin to the bottom leftmost pin. Short the top rightmost pin to the rightmost bottom pin.

[I Am An Idiot]

The above info is done at the back side of the blue socket that accepts the module. Some of the earlier amps had a different socket that would allow use without a module. When you unplugged the module, the top pin would touch the bottom pin. I am sure Perry will have a picture for you.

[Perry Babin]

Attached is what was previously suggested.

The modules have poor quality surface mount capacitors that fail. Does the module work on bypass?

[cavhooah]

AWESOME ! Thats what I needed to know ! But would still like as much info as I can get. Im finally at a point in my life where I can afford some of the things I used to drool over.

Perry seems like the go to guy around here....Ive been lurking for a few days and he seems to be very knowledgable. Id like to hear about his technical history. Ive been a liscensed Amature Radio operator for a while and have made small change working on and building RF tube amplifiers for many moons. Im not the sharpest tool in the shed, but my persistance is my virtue

I was troubleshooting for an open input ground causing the issue on the module, but things seemed tidy as far as connections went. I dont beleave its oscillating at all....and my ol' trust Heathkit scope went to hell about three months ago...sigh. I would imagine that its right at the first stages on the module...as it seems there are separate circuits for each channel, and neither work. The signal doesnt seem to be combined anywhere for each channel for that matter (wich makes sense to me .

Ive also checked out the switch for X-over type (high/mid/low) and all seems well there. By the way.....highpass and full pass seems to work OK but sound somewhat distorted with small "pops" and "cracks" in the audio output.

Also...while reading about other type modules....I see that signal is also sent back out to the "output RCA's" through the module connections. Im pondering trying to get the signal from my first 240 (LP filtered signal) to route through its "output RCA's" to the input of the modified 240.... Any help on that idea ?

That seems like it would make a nice clean setup....Im NOT wanting to spring for another module....Im pretty much Ant-module purchase for sure

[Perry Babin]

If you don't have a scope, make something like the 'device' in the attached photo. If the LEDs light up, the amp is oscillating. You'd connect it across the speaker terminals. Notice that the LEDs are in 'reverse' parallel.

In the second two photos, you can see how the outer two terminals on the bottom row (looking in the amp with the cover off) are connected together. Maybe the low pass is sent out of those two pins to the output RCA jacks. You could check it with your working module.

[cavhooah]

Originally Posted by Perry Babin

The modules have poor quality surface mount capacitors that fail. Does the module work on bypass?

Yes it does. High pass and bypass work OK. Seems only Lowpass makes the sub want to jump out the front of the sub...lol

I now know at the least wich pins jump the module...thats good. Now, If I can get the module fixed.....Ill be even better !

[Perry Babin]

If you can determine if it's oscillating, that would help greatly. This is a VERY common problem.

[cavhooah]

Sure thing perry, Ill make that poor mans tool tomarrow and check it out. next post by me will have updates.