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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: southern Oregon
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I've got this SS ref 604 with a dead front and rear channel. I want to try to fix but don't know where to begin. Is there any help for me? Thanks!
Michael |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
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Try all the switches first off do u hear anything popping/crackling out of the speaker?
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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The first thing you should do is to connect speakers to both dead channels (assuming that they don't have more than a fraction of a volt DC across them) and move all switches and potentiometers through their entire range. Does that produce audio (or any noise) on either channel?
You'll need to drive a signal into the dead channels. Confirm that the signal level is sufficient by testing it on the good channels.
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair * Basic Car Audio Electronics * New Site * Basic Switching Power Supply Design * Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: southern Oregon
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Okeedokee, I did as was suggested and the rear channel came to life. However, the front did not. With the switches set on full range, stereo and sufficient gain to make the good channel loud, the 'dead' channel makes no noise. Then I turned the gain all the way up and the 'dead' channel made a barely audible sound. I did, at one point, get equal volume from both front channels with the switches set on full range and mono. But it was overall low volume with the gain maxed.
The DC volts on the front channels were 20.3mV on the 'dead' channel and 15.9mV on the working channel. Michael |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
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When you checked to see if you had dc voltage on the speaker terminals.
Did you only have Power,Ground Remote hooked up No RCA'S? |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Northern California
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Sounds like bad switches or bad solder on the FEBs < channel driver boards >. Not much else goes wrong with these, that can't be read on a ohm meter as a shorted out or open device....
Try wiggling and cleaning the switches with contact cleaner if you get noise out to the speakers the channels are good but the switches are really dirty. Replacement might be recommended, if you can't clean and tighten them up to get them working.....You might have to remove the switches and disassemble them to get them working again. Most folks drop new ones in cause its faster... Your DC output is within margins of a used amp, although I have seen it much lower like less then 5 MVDC you most likely would have to replace the diff transistor on the FEB board or the whole board to get it back to like new offset reading wise......hope this helps...
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: southern Oregon
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#8 | |||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: southern Oregon
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Thanks for the direction!!!
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: southern Oregon
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I ran cleaner through the switches to no avail. :-(
What do I look for now? I've got a descent meter just don't know how to track things down. Thnaks again for the help!! |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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The differential transistors are the 6 or 7 legged devices on the audio driver boards (near the output transistors). The arrow in the attached photo points to the differential transistor. If yours uses the 7-legged transistor, it will be slightly different.
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair * Basic Car Audio Electronics * New Site * Basic Switching Power Supply Design * Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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