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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
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I replaced 8 of the outputs in this amp. Checked the emitter resistors and checked the drivers all seem to test fine.
When i try to power the amp up it draws excessive current. If i unplug the output board and power up just the power supply board it idles fine. Wondering where i begin to check?? |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Wisconsin
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Just a thought, after you pull the bad fets powering the amp up before placing good fets in could save some trouble. I have found checking the gate signals prior to populating the output fets has saved me damaging more output fets.
Someone else could tell me if this is logical or not. Sorry it doesn't help your situation right now. |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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Check the driver transistors, diodes and resistors near the small driver transformers. Double-check the outputs also if you find any defective component.
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair * Basic Car Audio Electronics * New Site * Basic Switching Power Supply Design * Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
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I checked all drivers,all resistors, and diodes near the small power transformers everything is checking good.
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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Did you check the driver transistors to confirm that every one had 2 good junctions (B-C and B-E)?
You may heed to compare what you read on one half of the outputs to what you read on the other half of the outputs.
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair * Basic Car Audio Electronics * New Site * Basic Switching Power Supply Design * Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
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Perry,
Do you know if one of the 3 legged connectors go here or not. Since the wasent one when i got this amp. But it was worked on before |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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I don't have photos of a 3000 but I think it should be there. Check for continuity between the TC2 component (thermistor) and the 3 pads between Q432 and Q420 on the insulator.
Looking at the ampguts page, it appears that there is one there. http://diymobileaudio.com/gallery/sh...php?photo=6510
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair * Basic Car Audio Electronics * New Site * Basic Switching Power Supply Design * Basic Computer Skills << Links Last edited by Perry Babin; 11th March 2010 at 10:19 PM. |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
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Thats what I thought that one goes there. The is continuity. Between the pads and tc2
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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The amp will operate without that jumper but that thermistor won't be able to shut down the amp if those transistors get too hot.
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair * Basic Car Audio Electronics * New Site * Basic Switching Power Supply Design * Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
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Ok i put a jumper in the amp. But when i try powering it up it goes into thermal mode and drwas excessive current. If i take the board out that i put the jumper on it powers up fine. I checked the outputs i just replaced and also checked the driver for thoose outputs and they all seem to be fine.
Wondering what i should check? |
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