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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
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Im working on this amp. The outputs are all toasted in this.
I was looking at the outputs and there are 16 of them total. 15 of them are IRFP360LC and 1 of them is a IRFP460LC. Are theese pretty much the same part?? Wondering if they are maybe someone fixed this amp before. So my question is if i put all IRFP360lc's (16 of them) should i be ok? |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Northern California
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Ahh you got a flea market repair job on your bench. I would say the 460 is not the correct part and someone did a cheapy repair before you, which most likely caused the second failure bringing the amp to your fine bench Mike.
I think the very expensive 360 is the correct part to use in this case, except now you gotta replace them all. Don't you just love those cheap fast repair tech's out there. makes me want to buy a firearm...
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Wisconsin
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They are pretty much the same part, I don't like the idea of just replacing one half of the pair though.
IRFP460 500V 20A Input Cap 4200pF output Cap 870pF on resistance of .27 ohm IRFP360 400V 23A Input cap 4500pF Output cap 1100pF on resistance of .2 ohms |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: East Midlands, England
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The difference between the 360 & 460 is the voltage rating (360 is a 400V Mosfet & 460 is 500V rating), there will be a slight difference in drain source on resistance which will cause the other IRFP360s to possibly carry a tad more current than the 460. I wouldn't expect the whole thing to blow though just because one mosfet happens to be carrying a bit less current than 7 (or 3 if a stereo amp) others
![]() As you are talking about an amplifier output stage switching times simply don't matter as the mosfets will be driven linear from a voltage source. I guess it's possible that one mosfet out of spec could cause the demise of the others, however i'd describe the amp as miles too close to the edge if this was true ![]() Blowing mosfets in a stable circuit isn't easy if it's designed right & the load is in spec, i'd look at what it was driving. Killing all the fets aint easy & indicates a pretty catastrophic failure. Something tells me there is more to this than just the mosfet/s
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"Never let your morals prevent you from doing what is right!" Salvor Hardin |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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Mike, I'd suggest that you pass on this repair unless you have 'deep pockets'. These amps can be very difficult to repair and one mistake can lead to the failure of all of the outputs.
If the outputs aren't soldered in place perfectly, the spring clamps may not apply enough force to get the transistors to lay perfectly flat against the sink and the amp will fail the first or second time the amp is driven to full power (at which point, the owner will expect you to repair it again for free. If the outputs failed, you'll have to replace the driver ICs on the audio driver board. Did it feel like any of the legs on the power supply FETs were weak when you pulled them away from the heatsink?
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Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
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It didnt feel like any power supply fets were loose however all of the outputs (16) are toasted it blew the fronts off them
Also noticed shaddy solder connections on all outputs and some power supply fets. 1MOREAMP, Yes it does make me wanna get a gun sometimes I talked to the guy who owns this amp and he said he had it repaired before and it lasted a week. Perry, Ive alreadt ripped into this amp so im gonna have to put it back together I ordered all new outputs ($5.17 each) And you said i have to replace the IC'S also? |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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Yes. If all of the outputs failed, you have to replace all 4 driver ICs. I'd strongly recommend that you use ChipQuik to remove them to prevent damaging the board.
Were any of the legs of the output transistors broken?
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
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Yes 2 of the outputs had broken legs on them.
Do you know what ic's there using in this amp since they are defaced |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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If legs were broken, you can expect the legs of the power supply transistors to break soon. The boards don't have enough support and the legs are weakened by vibration. The amp basically commits suicide.
Either the IR21844S or the IRS21844S will work.
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
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Perry,
I Talked with someone else about this amp and he said the same thing as you did. Told me not to mess with the amp . He said that when maxxsonics designed this amp they did a crap job of designing this amp and i can replace all of the outputs all the power supply fets and put a new output driver board in this amp. And as soon as i hook it up all of my work can go down the drain in 2 secs. He said they use to long of traces to the gates and the amp has problems with cross conduction. So im wondering if i should even mess with this or put it back together and tell the guy it cant be fixed. Any suggestions for me i know you told me not to mess with it should i stick to what you have told me and not attempt to do it? |
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