Sub on a cycle

AllenB · 26th February 2010, 11:40 PM

I want to mount a woofer on a motorcycle by incorporating it into the helmet case behind the seat. It will be facing forward at my back.

I have decided to go vented for a few good reasons...the driver can't be too big (10" is my limit) and it needs to be loud to be heard, plus there is no cabin gain.

Would there be issues with the driver (and the port) copping a constant flow of air at them?

Glowbug · 27th February 2010, 02:54 AM

I think you'd be better suited by a good pair of earbuds, but that's just IMHO

With some of the custom ones, you can get a pretty good seal from the outside; really helps the bass response.

AllenB · 27th February 2010, 09:39 AM

Thank you, but when doing it this way there is little distraction as the road and traffic noise is not blocked out, even at higher volumes.

The driver has stiff suspension. I guess it would be held permanently off centre for an increase in even order harmonics and power handling, but the question is how much, (too much)?

wwenze · 27th February 2010, 10:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Glowbug

I think you'd be better suited by a good pair of earbuds, but that's just IMHO

With some of the custom ones, you can get a pretty good seal from the outside; really helps the bass response.

I believe it's specifically mentioned in some places not to use sound-isolating phones when on the road.

brandes.cm · 27th February 2010, 02:31 PM

How are the noise laws in your area, most people complain about a car going by with loud bass. Just a thought.

AllenB · 27th February 2010, 07:57 PM

Loud exhausts on bikes here are considered a safety feature. Anyway I need the volume for highway use and I don't feel the need to blast the suburbs.

I've considered pointing the driver downward. I know it should have all round dispersion at these frequencies but I can't help but think I'd lose some of the SPL doing it that way.

imix500 · 27th February 2010, 08:03 PM

You could mount one or two of these to your frame:
Parts-Express.com:Aura Pro Bass Shaker | bass shaker transducer tactile transducer butt shaker seat shaker gift2009

AllenB · 27th February 2010, 08:18 PM

Great idea, but I should explain. In order to get the required output from the mains I'll need to cross into the audible region. I'm thinking between 100-200Hz. Sorry about the thread title as this is beyond sub territory.

jol50 · 2nd March 2010, 05:42 PM

I would not want bugs and stones hitting the sub, but really if they do have some air the port should equalize the box pressure to keep the sub centered right? I suppose the sub could have more surface area. You could try bandpass but they tend to be larger. Maybe foam speaker grill in front would help.

I'd build one to test, tune for say good 40Hz and up, should be able to put out with that. Get a class d amp since you don't have much power there...that is what I would try for. Use a more efficient sub, however more efficient tends to tune higher in a small box. Maybe minimum power handling might be most efficient tuned low enough to work in your ported box size. Another way is a passive radiator, though they might like buffeting wind less if exposed a lot.

BP1Fanatic · 2nd March 2010, 06:20 PM

Check out this forum.
12v Powered Systems - Speakerplans.com Forums - Page 1

26th February 2010, 11:40 PM	#1
AllenB diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2008	Sub on a cycle I want to mount a woofer on a motorcycle by incorporating it into the helmet case behind the seat. It will be facing forward at my back. I have decided to go vented for a few good reasons...the driver can't be too big (10" is my limit) and it needs to be loud to be heard, plus there is no cabin gain. Would there be issues with the driver (and the port) copping a constant flow of air at them?

27th February 2010, 02:54 AM	#2
Glowbug diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Hillsborough, NC/McLean, VA	I think you'd be better suited by a good pair of earbuds, but that's just IMHO With some of the custom ones, you can get a pretty good seal from the outside; really helps the bass response. __________________ Jim J.

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27th February 2010, 09:39 AM	#3
AllenB diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2008	Thank you, but when doing it this way there is little distraction as the road and traffic noise is not blocked out, even at higher volumes. The driver has stiff suspension. I guess it would be held permanently off centre for an increase in even order harmonics and power handling, but the question is how much, (too much)?

27th February 2010, 02:31 PM	#5
brandes.cm diyAudio Member Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Wisconsin	How are the noise laws in your area, most people complain about a car going by with loud bass. Just a thought.

27th February 2010, 07:57 PM	#6
AllenB diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2008	Loud exhausts on bikes here are considered a safety feature. Anyway I need the volume for highway use and I don't feel the need to blast the suburbs. I've considered pointing the driver downward. I know it should have all round dispersion at these frequencies but I can't help but think I'd lose some of the SPL doing it that way.

27th February 2010, 08:03 PM	#7
imix500 Proud Union Member diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Nashville, TN	You could mount one or two of these to your frame: Parts-Express.com:Aura Pro Bass Shaker \| bass shaker transducer tactile transducer butt shaker seat shaker gift2009

27th February 2010, 08:18 PM	#8
AllenB diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2008	Great idea, but I should explain. In order to get the required output from the mains I'll need to cross into the audible region. I'm thinking between 100-200Hz. Sorry about the thread title as this is beyond sub territory.

2nd March 2010, 05:42 PM	#9
jol50 diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2007	I would not want bugs and stones hitting the sub, but really if they do have some air the port should equalize the box pressure to keep the sub centered right? I suppose the sub could have more surface area. You could try bandpass but they tend to be larger. Maybe foam speaker grill in front would help. I'd build one to test, tune for say good 40Hz and up, should be able to put out with that. Get a class d amp since you don't have much power there...that is what I would try for. Use a more efficient sub, however more efficient tends to tune higher in a small box. Maybe minimum power handling might be most efficient tuned low enough to work in your ported box size. Another way is a passive radiator, though they might like buffeting wind less if exposed a lot.

2nd March 2010, 06:20 PM	#10
BP1Fanatic diyAudio Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Columbus, Ohio	Check out this forum. 12v Powered Systems - Speakerplans.com Forums - Page 1

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