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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
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I got this amp in for repair but someone did a number on it it has missing resistors and diodes in it. Wondering if anyone knows what the values are for theese?
Board locations R123 D27 R201 R115 R124 And also wondering if the z44's will work in the power supply? or whats a good fet to put in there? |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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If it had 7050s in it, the Z44s wouldn't be a good sub. The following part would be a better match.
INTERNATIONAL RECTIFIER | IRF1010EZPBF | Single N-Channel 60V 140 W 58 nC Power Mosfet Flange Mount - TO-220AB - Future Electronics If this is the same as the 1000s (for all of the parts), R123 and R124 are 3.32 ohms. D27 is a 1N914 (1n4148). R201 is 0.27 ohms. R115 is a 1 ohm resistor.
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
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Perry i had the modle number wrong its a Reference 1000s.
THe power supply fets that are in it right now are ndp7060 but looks like they have been replaced. So i wasent sure. Next 1 other part is missing D739 uis that the same as D738? |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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512-NDP7060 (mouser). I keep forgetting that those are still available. The schematic diagram has NDP7050.
D739 is a 1N914 on the schematic diagram but in one of the photos I have, a 1N4004 was used. I've seen several of these with various mods to that area of the board. Either diode will work.
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
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Perry,
DO you know the part number for the A1562's in this amp? This amp need a total overhaul I have to replace the capacitor bank in it also. |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
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Are certain caps better than others? i have to replace all 18 of the caps since 9 of them are junk.
And anything else i should replce since im pretty much replacing most of the power supply? |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
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wondering if theese caps will work for me?
B41827A4228M000 EPCOS Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Leaded |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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For caps across the B+ supply, I prefer the FC series made by Panasonic. Digikey sells them. Whatever you choose, you want low impedance, low ESR and 105C. Typically, caps with higher voltage are a better option so if you can find 105c caps of the same value and size but with a higher voltage rating, they're likely a better choice.
You may want to order the 2N2222 NPN driver transistors. They rarely fail but you should at least order them in case you need them.
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
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Perry, should i rebuild this amp going off the schematic? Since when i opened up the amp there was a jfet soldered in place of the diode (D739) also checked on the 1000sx amp and r201,r123,D27 board locations were nor being used.
So wondering should i keep it this way or rebuild off the schematic? Just wondering if i go off the schematic will i have any problems with the supply? Im not sure if the parts listed were there at one time or not since this amp someone tryed to fix themselfs and didnt know what they were doing |
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