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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
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I just got this amp in tonight for repair.oes anyone have a schematic for this or know the order the outputs go in it? Someone worked on it before and have power supply fets in the output section. Also the fets that are in this amp now are irf1010e's not sure if they are original or not.
And in the output section they have 540's 9540's irf9z34's and irf1010e's and i know thats not correct at all correct me if im wrong. But a 9540 and a 1010e working together? Any help would greatly be appericated |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Northern California
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Yeah they have that in the bass channel sort of like a staggered output stage. RF has the schematic posted on their web site last I looked. It threw me the first time i saw it also. Plus if this is the defective channel be prepared to tweezers out some of the SMD transistor components sitting behind the outputs. I have never seen one of the just blow the outputs only, they always take down the drivers stages and several resistors also along the way....Have fun....
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
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Thanks 1moreamp,
Yeah it took out the 2a's the emitter resistors, the 10 ohm surface mount resistors, all the power supply fets, the gray and black diode , one of the 1n4003 diodes. Some of the 540's and 9540's in a couple channels. Thats what i found so far wrong with it in 25 mins could be more then that. But the guy is willing to pay for it i told him it would probably be an expensive repair |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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If it's the same as a 600a5, the sub channel is class G so only 2 of the outputs are for audio. The other two are for rail switching.
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
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the sub channel has IRF9Z34,IRF5210,IRF540, and IRF1010E .
The other channels are 540's and 9540's . Which the sub channel and 2 of the other channels have shorted outputs. The power supply is using IRF1010E's Is this a good fet to use or should i switch to something else since this guy likes to abuse his equiment |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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The 1010 is a good FET.
If this guy is abusive, tell him to use a fan to keep the amp cooler. If he doesn't run it below its lowest rated ohm load and he uses a fan, it should be reliable.
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
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Well ill post when i get the parts orderd and put in and let you know how the amp is. If its working or not
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
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i put new fets and outputs in this amp.
The other thing is i forgot to order the diode for it. The diode is marked 28-150 its gray with a black stripe. Wondering can i use a cross for this diode?? |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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That's a BYV28-150 and is difficult to match (for durability) with anything of a comparable size. If you're not going to use an exact replacement, I'd suggest using something like an MUR820 bent similar to the one in the following image. The left leg in the photo would be the same as the striped end of the original diode. If you use this as a replacement and the tab has to be cut off (for clearance), do so before you install it.
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
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well i had to order the original part. I order 10 of them from newark since i didnt have either one in stock. Plus wanna try to keep it original since its a customers amp
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