|
|||||||
| Home | Forums | Rules | Articles | Store | Gallery | Blogs | Register | Donations | FAQ | Calendar | Search | Today's Posts | Mark Forums Read | Search |
|
Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.
Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving |
|
![]() |
|
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|
#1 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
|
Hey guys, was referred to this site by another forum and hope you can help.
After a month of everything working fine, now, as soon as I turn on my car stereo, my whole electrical system goes nuts. All the lights in my car begin to pulsate between dim and normal at a constant rate, about 2 or 3 times a second. While it's doing this, the power/protect light on the amp flash as well. While all of this is happening, it produces no sound. I checked fuses, tried disconnecting and reconnecting everything, tried it with just power cables connected (i.e. no speaker wire or RCA's) and the exact same thing happens. The only thing I haven't checked is the ground point since it's not convenient and I haven't felt like ripping my car apart. The amp is a DB Drive PD2000.1 mono amplifier. It's the older black version, not the new silver. It has a new board though. This is a beast of an amplifier that puts out well over 2000 watts at 1 ohm, and can be run at less than 1 ohm as well. I wasn't stressing it at all - it was being run at 2 ohms, just playing some Metallica. I took it out today and opened it up. Nothing looks burnt or discolored. I can post pics if that would help. I can't think of anything else to check. I have a feeling it isn't the ground either, since my 4 channel amp is grounded at the same place, and it works fine. Any ideas? A member of another forum suggested the power supply. |
|
|
|
|
#2 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
|
It sounds like it may be drawing excessive current and it's going into protect. That's most likely due to shorted output transistors.
I've never worked on one of these but what I can see from the ampguts site, there are 10 output transistors (2 groups of 5) on each side of the amp (near the 4 round inductors). Measure the resistance between the legs of each individual transistor. If you read anything near 0 ohms between the legs of any individual transistor, that transistor (or one in parallel with it) is defective. Do this with no power applied to the amp.
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
|
|
![]() |
| Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
| Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|
Similar Threads
|
||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| Diagnosing and fixing amplifier fault (loud crackling and popping) | halfgaar | Solid State | 100 | 29th January 2012 10:01 PM |
| Quad esl63 problem diagnosing. | graeme uk | Planars & Exotics | 10 | 17th December 2009 05:44 PM |
| Diagnosing heat-related problem with amp | valterdaw | Car Audio | 3 | 9th May 2007 03:16 AM |
| Electrical problem | sdedalus | Everything Else | 1 | 22nd October 2006 07:39 AM |
| Newbie Question: Need help diagnosing a problem, tubes on, music fades out quickly | AndrewTosh | Tubes / Valves | 4 | 1st September 2004 12:09 PM |
| New To Site? | Need Help? |
| Page generated in 0.06758 seconds (72.86% PHP - 27.14% MySQL) with 10 queries |