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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: NC
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Been trying to figure out whats wrong with a Rubicon 502 board. The board will not power up, none of the leds will light up, no output. The board doesn't have any burnt marks other than some blackish around the bottoms rectifiers(?). Tested each outer legs to:
330k 467k Any ideas on where to look. Please describe ideas, still in the learning curve. Pics of the board and attached the schematic. ![]()
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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Clamp the transistors tightly to the heatsink and insert a 10 amp fuse in the B+ line.
Power the amp up and post the voltage on all 16 pins of the SG3524. SG3524 Pin 1: Pin 2: Pin 3: Pin 4: Pin 5: Pin 6: Pin 7: Pin 8: Pin 9: Pin 10: Pin 11: Pin 12: Pin 13: Pin 14: Pin 15: Pin 16:
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Northern California
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Here is a little more detailed info on your troubles, just trying to be helpful...
![]() Q68 is a MPSW51A and it supplies the 12 volts to the LM3524 PWM control chip. Q69 is a MPS8099 and it is the turn on transistor for the amp, thus it gets the 12 turn on through this transistor to the PWM supply. TS1 and TS2 are temperature switches and they can inhibit turn on if they are dysfunctional... This info plus what Perry has asked for should get you started on your quest...
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: NC
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NP any help is welcome.
I didn't have much luck in tracing the out the pins. If I'm right then.. Pin 1: 0.00 Pin 2: 2.74 Pin 6: 3.24 Pin 7: 2.21 Pin 10: 0.00 Pin 14: 0.00 Pin 16: 4.92 I did measure each pin with the amp facing in front of you, top pins from left to right: 4.92, 11.35, 0.00, 11.35, 11.35, 0.00, 0.02, 0.18 Bottom pins from left to right: .002, 2.74, 0.28, 0.00, 0.00, 3.24, 2.22, 0.00 |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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Pin 9 needs to go higher for the IC to produce output. From the input voltages, it appears that something external is pulling it down. Remove and check D18. C57 may be leaking (electrically) which could pull it down.
With D18 out if the circuit, all transistors clamped tightly to the heatsink and a 10 amp fuse in the B+ line, power up the amp. Does it produce rail voltage with D18 out of the circuit?
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: NC
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Pulled D18 and the amp did power up, good sight to see. I checked points TP8 and TP9 with 20.04 / -20.04vdc.
Tested D18 with open and 228v. |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: NC
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Perry you think maybe replacing C57 and see?
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: NC
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Replaced C57 and D18 but still will not power up. Took D18 back out and the amp powers up. All three leds stay on red and TP10 and TP11 are showing 16.45.
Any other idea's? |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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What's the DC voltage on the 3 legs of Q38?
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: NC
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The center leg is .013 and two outer legs are .000.
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