My 75$ Craigslist "box-o-amps"

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I wasnt in the mood to buy any amps but I seen an ad on craigslist from a guy who purchased the entire inventory of a used audio store that was going out of business and was selling boxes of amps for 75$. The ad mentioned that they were not able to test the amps (found this was due to the volume of stuff they had). Heres a few things I got in my box, there were 2 crossovers and a processor made by carver KLW and a few more amps not worth picturing but here is the bulk.

BTW:
I lightly benched (with PS and no real load, just seeing if they worked). All the amps with the exception of the little Orion (haven't opened it up yet) worked perfectly. A few had rigged plugs that shouldnt be a problem to fix. The only one I was really concerned with was the LP....I tested it last and held my breath....with a click of a relay it came to life!!!

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


Here is a bad shot of the inside of the G&S Comp 100. This is also the same board used in the PPI made Sansui SM-1500 Sansui SM-1500 inside - Amp Guts except the Sansui is missing the DIN plug and 2 fets on the power supply.

I have so many amps now I dont know what to do.
Looks like I am going to put some on fleabay.
That is....all except for the 2202 (always wanted a TO3 amp!!!!)

~JH
 
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Thanks all.....


After further observation on the 222 here is what I have found:

1. After pulling the foam tape off the caps the shrink tube is pulling off the bottoms of 2 exposing the cap base, and 2 are showing signs of mushrooming.

Please excuse my ignorance but I assume this means they are bad (even without testing).

2. Where the orange wire goes into the board there is a group of components that seem to have a puffy white corrosion around the base of the solder joints (in about a .75" circle). This includes all components localized....could this be from a liquid spilled on the board when someone else had it open or something more ominous?



My real question is now that with the caps that I clearly feel are bad is a very bad sign for the amp, meaning if these caps fail does it usually (*or always) mean that it chain reaction f's up much more?

From what I read people assumed that these SX series amps would play 1ohm mono like the HCCA just because it had Orion on the heatsink. (*the SX were supposed to be really nice amps when correctly loaded however)

Apparently many of them failed due to ultra low impedance loads.

Thanks for any advice

~JH
 
Change out the caps if you are in doubt. It would be a shame to blow up speakers because of a couple bad caps. I would simply remove the devices with the corrosion and clean them up and re solder them. It can't hurt if you are careful and don't give anything too much heat.
 
~Also....

Dont know if this means anything but the amp goes into protect on both channels when hooked up....at least WITHOUT speakers.

I hooked the amps up with no speakers attached and zero input to see if the amp starts. I dont know but I *could see an amp that would go into protect with the outputs being open. Because the amp went into protect as soon as the remote had voltage I didnt put speakers on it.

~This is my first Orion, and I dont know too much about them.
 
Those are peak indicators and are not generally an indicator of the condition of the amp. I don't know about this amp but on the others, the preamp signal drives the op-amp and when the voltage on the op-amp is high enough, the LEDs light up. There could be a problem in the preamp section or with the op-amps (or its power supply). Do you want to try to troubleshoot it? If so, you may want to start a new thread.
 
Great find! I have a old blaupunkt that will not run right without RCA hooked up. The common shows voltage.

I have the sansui 1500, it sure looks like the two extra mosfets are for the DIN? I was going to put them in but I don't think they are for the PS. The outputs fell off the board in mine, have not used it since I put them back on. No wonder it was getting quieter. Still have to build a plug for it and the crutchfields I got just like it but 4ch....5 plugs, yuck.:(
 
I am going hook up a source to the rca's to see if the PK leds go out, but I would be willing to bet that that based on the screws missing from the board and the swollen caps there is something wrong in Orionville.

Will take PBs advice and start a new thread.

I only wish there were more hours in the day for this stuff!!!!
 
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