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#11 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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Are you saying that all of the transistors marked 94-2355 have been removed and there are no transistors in those locations?
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Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair * Basic Car Audio Electronics * New Site * Basic Switching Power Supply Design * Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#12 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
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yes all have been removed bvecause the amp still draws current with them in or out
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#13 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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Are you sure that you soldered the diodes back on the IC correctly?
Are you sure the IC was installed properly in the socket (not reversed)? Did the new 4080 get hot?
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Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair * Basic Car Audio Electronics * New Site * Basic Switching Power Supply Design * Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#14 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
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positive i put the 4080 in the right way also put the diode in correctly 4080 doesnt get hot.
Well i powerd it back uop again in the sink fets clamped tightly i see a 5w 33ohm sandstone resistor thats buldged in the back |
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#15 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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It would be unusual for that type of resistor to bulge without significant discoloration. Is it cracked with the area around the fracture darkened?
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Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair * Basic Car Audio Electronics * New Site * Basic Switching Power Supply Design * Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#16 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
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didnt appear to be craked ui just replaced it anyway. I checked the other diodes connected to the 4080 diode fr105 is the number on it and it reads 4.76 the other larger pk diode reads 5.67
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#17 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
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ok this amp has 12 fets in the power supply if all 12 are in the amp idles at 15 amps if u take all of them out besides 2 (1 per side) the amp idles perfect wondering if i might have a power supply problem going on
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#18 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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4.7v/5.67 ohms, volts, amp on/off...?
With only 1 FET/side, the power supply can't produce full rail voltage (because the transformers are not being driven properly - assuming that this amp has two transformers) which may be why it's not drawing excessive current. Reinstall all of them and clamp them down. Remove the 4080 and post the DC voltage on all 20 pins of the 4080. 4080 Pin 1: Pin 2: Pin 3: Pin 4: Pin 5: Pin 6: Pin 7: Pin 8: Pin 9: Pin 10: Pin 11: Pin 12: Pin 13: Pin 14: Pin 15: Pin 16: Pin 17: Pin 18: Pin 19: Pin 20:
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Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair * Basic Car Audio Electronics * New Site * Basic Switching Power Supply Design * Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#19 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
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i try to repair an amp like that and at 12V it draws 15Amps!!!!
the audio part is working ok, all the transistors were changed with IRF3710, on the supply area i need to change probably the driver circuit KIA494(TL494). Also i changed the transistors with irfz48 and the gate resistors. What can cause suck a big consume? What i need to check/recheck??? ![]() The guy that put this question, how do you resolved this issue? |
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#20 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
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Hello, I have a problem with Hifonics Brutus BX1500D. I've also experienced the exact problem with similar amps using the HIP4080 IC (Starsound, ...).
The problem goes like this: With no/little load the amp works just fine. Idle current is ok, output signal is ok etc. But when the load is increased the output becomes distorted. Sine wave becomes like this: ![]() Nothing fails, no part gets overheated, no exessive current, just this distortion. I've tried replacing output FETs, HIP4080 but with no results. Any idea? |
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