can someone tell me what am i looking at..?
are these output transistors or powersupply transistors?
nevertheless, five of them have blown.. as can be seen by the picture below:
it looks like one resistor is definitely burnt.. possibly a second resistor.
do you think one or two of these need to be replaced also?
will replacing the five transistors with the exact same part number get this amplifier back to an operational status?
links to the transistor are here:
http://www.fairchildsemi.com/ds/FQ/FQP50N06.pdf
Product Folder - FQP50N06 - 60V N-Channel MOSFET QFET®
more pics of the damage are here:
i took the amp out of the trunk and connected it in the house.. the amp lit up right away.
...replacing those 5 transistors and the resistors close-by is all i need to do yes/no?
are these output transistors or powersupply transistors?
nevertheless, five of them have blown.. as can be seen by the picture below:
it looks like one resistor is definitely burnt.. possibly a second resistor.
do you think one or two of these need to be replaced also?
will replacing the five transistors with the exact same part number get this amplifier back to an operational status?
links to the transistor are here:
http://www.fairchildsemi.com/ds/FQ/FQP50N06.pdf
Product Folder - FQP50N06 - 60V N-Channel MOSFET QFET®
more pics of the damage are here:
i took the amp out of the trunk and connected it in the house.. the amp lit up right away.
...replacing those 5 transistors and the resistors close-by is all i need to do yes/no?
Power supply mosfets and I would replace them all from the looks of the amp, and any of the gate resistors that burned up also.
I would also ohm out the other devices attached to the sink to see if any of them are shorted out also...
Usually a channel must blow or something else may have been shorted to cause this sort of failure...that is just my opinion though and you might be luckier then many others I have seen over the years.
I would also ohm out the other devices attached to the sink to see if any of them are shorted out also...
Usually a channel must blow or something else may have been shorted to cause this sort of failure...that is just my opinion though and you might be luckier then many others I have seen over the years.
no, no, no,
i had a channel blow.. there was a constant screech when i hooked up a speaker.
then i put my radio up for like an entire year.. never put the faceplate of the radio on.
i brought the amp into the house to test the blown channel and make sure the amp channel was indefinitely blown.
but the wierdest thing happend.. i couldnt get any output from EITHER channel.
last time i had the amp hooked up in the car, the one channel was working fine and i had ran two 5.25inch midranges on the one remaining channel.
i have absolutely no idea why the other channel quit working.
and i'm also baffled that the known broken channel didnt screech when i had it hooked up in the house.
if i have output transistors that are also fried, i think i'm gonna use my square trade warranty.
i had a channel blow.. there was a constant screech when i hooked up a speaker.
then i put my radio up for like an entire year.. never put the faceplate of the radio on.
i brought the amp into the house to test the blown channel and make sure the amp channel was indefinitely blown.
but the wierdest thing happend.. i couldnt get any output from EITHER channel.
last time i had the amp hooked up in the car, the one channel was working fine and i had ran two 5.25inch midranges on the one remaining channel.
i have absolutely no idea why the other channel quit working.
and i'm also baffled that the known broken channel didnt screech when i had it hooked up in the house.
if i have output transistors that are also fried, i think i'm gonna use my square trade warranty.
It probably screeched in the vehicle because you had a shorted speaker wire (shorted to chassis ground). Moving it to the other channel moved the shorted wire from an active output (one with signal) to the grounded speaker terminal which would typically cause nothing more than engine noise.
After removing the 6 FETs and checking the gate resistors (as was previously suggested), you need to check the gate drive signal. Measure the DC voltage on the output pins of the driver IC (SG3525 or TL494?). The voltage on the gate pads (the solder pads where leg 1 of the FET solders to the board) for the power supply FETs should essentially have the same voltage (~5-6v).
After replacing the FETs and before applying power, clamp all of the components on the heatsink tightly down and insert a 10 amp fuse in the B+ line. This will help protect the new parts if there is another fault.
After removing the 6 FETs and checking the gate resistors (as was previously suggested), you need to check the gate drive signal. Measure the DC voltage on the output pins of the driver IC (SG3525 or TL494?). The voltage on the gate pads (the solder pads where leg 1 of the FET solders to the board) for the power supply FETs should essentially have the same voltage (~5-6v).
After replacing the FETs and before applying power, clamp all of the components on the heatsink tightly down and insert a 10 amp fuse in the B+ line. This will help protect the new parts if there is another fault.
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