Class D parts help - Page 2

SS64 · 15th November 2009, 05:00 PM

This is all the better I could get with my phone.. Hope its good enough

Eva · 15th November 2009, 05:57 PM

The 20 pin IC looks like a HIP4080(A).

The Monacor Carpower D-REX 1200 (probably only sold in Europe and now discontinued) looks like a renewed version of that amplifier design, with some size reduction (a single bigger supply toroid) and migration to SMD. I find a lot of similarities in parts and overall layout, including the "black-box" potted daughter PCB.

Perry Babin · 15th November 2009, 07:07 PM

Except for the color of the board, this appears to be essentially identical to the old Planet Audio PA2500D.

All 3 of the inductors in the upper left of the photo tend to short. When you get the amp working and have all of the power transistors tightly clamped to the heatsink, you'll need twist them gently to see if there are any problems.

If you see sparks between the windings or if the amp begins to draw more/less current when twisting them, they have intermittently shorted windings. You should do this with a 2 ohm current limiting resistor in series with the B+ line. If the inductor just in front of the black box has shorted windings, it could cause enough current to damage the power supply. If you don't have a current limiting resistor, insert a 10 amp fuse in the B+ line.

If none are shorted yet, you need to apply a few drops of an good adhesive like Goop to the terminal windings. Apply it at the top and let it drip down the side of the inductor between the terminal winding and the rest of the windings. This will help prevent them from shorting in the future.

If any of the audio FETs shorted when they failed, you'll need to replace the 4080. They virtually always fail when the FETs short.

SS64 · 17th November 2009, 12:35 AM

Ok so far the supply is all good.. Just got those parts in today.. I'm waiting on the outputs from future.. So i will post what happens when I have everything in place..
Oh and I did replace the 4080 just to be sure..

SS64 · 20th November 2009, 01:23 AM

Ok amp works perfect.. Thank you Perry and Eva.

15th November 2009, 05:00 PM	#11
SS64 diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2008	This is all the better I could get with my phone.. Hope its good enough __________________ It isn't fun unless it can kill you!

15th November 2009, 05:57 PM	#12
Eva diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Near the sea	The 20 pin IC looks like a HIP4080(A). The Monacor Carpower D-REX 1200 (probably only sold in Europe and now discontinued) looks like a renewed version of that amplifier design, with some size reduction (a single bigger supply toroid) and migration to SMD. I find a lot of similarities in parts and overall layout, including the "black-box" potted daughter PCB. __________________ I use to feel like the small child in The Emperor's New Clothes tale

15th November 2009, 07:07 PM	#13
Perry Babin diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Louisiana	Except for the color of the board, this appears to be essentially identical to the old Planet Audio PA2500D. All 3 of the inductors in the upper left of the photo tend to short. When you get the amp working and have all of the power transistors tightly clamped to the heatsink, you'll need twist them gently to see if there are any problems. If you see sparks between the windings or if the amp begins to draw more/less current when twisting them, they have intermittently shorted windings. You should do this with a 2 ohm current limiting resistor in series with the B+ line. If the inductor just in front of the black box has shorted windings, it could cause enough current to damage the power supply. If you don't have a current limiting resistor, insert a 10 amp fuse in the B+ line. If none are shorted yet, you need to apply a few drops of an good adhesive like Goop to the terminal windings. Apply it at the top and let it drip down the side of the inductor between the terminal winding and the rest of the windings. This will help prevent them from shorting in the future. If any of the audio FETs shorted when they failed, you'll need to replace the 4080. They virtually always fail when the FETs short. __________________ Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links

17th November 2009, 12:35 AM	#14
SS64 diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2008	Ok so far the supply is all good.. Just got those parts in today.. I'm waiting on the outputs from future.. So i will post what happens when I have everything in place.. Oh and I did replace the 4080 just to be sure.. __________________ It isn't fun unless it can kill you!

20th November 2009, 01:23 AM	#15
SS64 diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2008	Ok amp works perfect.. Thank you Perry and Eva. __________________ It isn't fun unless it can kill you!


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