Well I am a new member here, and was inspired by the old school debate thread to get a nice older amp. Maybe not as old or nice as some of the wonderful amps Tomtomjr or tsmith and others have, but so far after bench testing it seems nice. It was a joy to read the full 73 pages of the thread, and can not wait for more to come along. Well with that out of the way the reason i made this thread is I am now looking for a manual for my new/old school amp
it is a Audio Art 260.6xe. When i was testing i was running into amp input, and bypassing the crossover. What i really want to do though is use the crossover and run the amp in 4 channel to run my front full pass (direct to amp input) and my rears in bandpass for mid range fill. I just want to make sure I do it right, and not mess up the amp in the process.
Thank you all in advance
Zippy
it is a Audio Art 260.6xe. When i was testing i was running into amp input, and bypassing the crossover. What i really want to do though is use the crossover and run the amp in 4 channel to run my front full pass (direct to amp input) and my rears in bandpass for mid range fill. I just want to make sure I do it right, and not mess up the amp in the process.
Thank you all in advance
Zippy
Nice amp, post a picture! (Help me re-live my youth)
I doubt I have a manual or diagram, but will look around this afternoon for info. Is the internal crossover a 3-way? I doubt you'll be able to bandpass without an additional filter. But as long as the front speakers are wired correctly for bridged mode and you have good power/ground, there's not much chance for damaging the amp.
BTW, my collection is small and insignificant comapred to many others here...
I doubt I have a manual or diagram, but will look around this afternoon for info. Is the internal crossover a 3-way? I doubt you'll be able to bandpass without an additional filter. But as long as the front speakers are wired correctly for bridged mode and you have good power/ground, there's not much chance for damaging the amp.
BTW, my collection is small and insignificant comapred to many others here...
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Cool. The way it's set up gives you maximum versatility, just like the old HiFonics amps.
I don't get the sub crossover on the side can you post a larger pic of that, or is it that just the bass EQ adjustments?
With the switch in "2-way +sub" it most likely sums the input to the low frequency filter and bypasses the bandpass for highpass only on the other outputs.
For the full-range bridged channels, just use a pair of Y-adapters to tie the inputs of the A channels together and B channels together (or B and C). Power output is equal on all channels, right? Then, use the ungrounded leads from A channel as one pair of the bridged speaker leads, and likewise for the B channels. These are easy to find if you don't know how.
edit: On the "board model #" pic, do you know what the switch is for?
For the bandpass channels, switch the crossover to 3-way mode, and run your signal into either front or rear inputs on the crossover. Connect the crossover's mid output to the other unused pair of amplifier inputs.
I don't get the sub crossover on the side can you post a larger pic of that, or is it that just the bass EQ adjustments?
With the switch in "2-way +sub" it most likely sums the input to the low frequency filter and bypasses the bandpass for highpass only on the other outputs.
For the full-range bridged channels, just use a pair of Y-adapters to tie the inputs of the A channels together and B channels together (or B and C). Power output is equal on all channels, right? Then, use the ungrounded leads from A channel as one pair of the bridged speaker leads, and likewise for the B channels. These are easy to find if you don't know how.
edit: On the "board model #" pic, do you know what the switch is for?
For the bandpass channels, switch the crossover to 3-way mode, and run your signal into either front or rear inputs on the crossover. Connect the crossover's mid output to the other unused pair of amplifier inputs.
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Well it is a
4 x 35 wrms + 2 x 60 @ 4 ohms
4 x 70 wrms + 2 x 120 @ 2 ohms
2 x 140 wrms + 1 x 240 @ 4 ohms bridged
Photobucket album
I was hoping you could tell me what the switches are for lol. I included the photo album so you can see the bigger pictures and also a new pic of the bottom. Yes the side view is a bass eq, and not a crossover to early in the morning.
As for the abc channel would AB be the 4x35, and the C be 2x60
What i want is to bridge AB for the 140w to run fronts, and C to run rears.
thakns in advance
Zippy
4 x 35 wrms + 2 x 60 @ 4 ohms
4 x 70 wrms + 2 x 120 @ 2 ohms
2 x 140 wrms + 1 x 240 @ 4 ohms bridged
Photobucket album
I was hoping you could tell me what the switches are for lol. I included the photo album so you can see the bigger pictures and also a new pic of the bottom. Yes the side view is a bass eq, and not a crossover to early in the morning.
As for the abc channel would AB be the 4x35, and the C be 2x60
What i want is to bridge AB for the 140w to run fronts, and C to run rears.
thakns in advance
Zippy
Are there 3 switches?
Looks like it, and I would expect them to invert channels for bridged operation.
All speaker negatives are black and run to a common point?
edit: OK, I just looked again and saw the pic of the bottom cover. They must be for switching to bridged mode. On=bridged, off=stereo. They just invert polarity on one channel.
Looks like it, and I would expect them to invert channels for bridged operation.
All speaker negatives are black and run to a common point?
edit: OK, I just looked again and saw the pic of the bottom cover. They must be for switching to bridged mode. On=bridged, off=stereo. They just invert polarity on one channel.
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The speaker wires would be the clue...
Since your amp has a bridged power rating, it is obviously bridgeable.
- Some bridgeable amps have one channel (per pair) already inverted by design. To bridge these amps, you simply use the two wires that are "hot" with respect to power supply ground. Since the polarity is inverted on one channel, the "hot" wire will actually be a negative speaker output. So, in stereo operation, these "hot" wires will be a positive from one channel and a negative from the other channel. No switches are necessary.
- The other bridgeable amps have switches to invert the signal before it is amplified. Too bridge these amps, you use the two (+) wires from the channels being bridged.
- An amp that doesn't have either of these features isn't bridgeable without external components.
So... it appears that the black (negative) speaker wires in your photo are connected to the same point. That would indicate that the (+) wires are "hot" and it would require the switch to invert phase on one side, so that (+) output could be used as a (-) output.
Unless, of course, the wire colors were confused when they were replaced.
You can verify the connection visually, or with a DMM set to measure resistance or continuity. If half of the speaker (+) outputs are connected to the other channels' (-) outputs, the switches aren't for bridging.
A few amps have internal switches for low-impedance operation, but the switches would be labeled as 4ohm-2-ohm, not on-off.
That was a long repsonse to simply say:
Other than in the low-impedance case, an incorrect switch position wouldn't damage the amp. But it wouldn't sound too good.
Since your amp has a bridged power rating, it is obviously bridgeable.
- Some bridgeable amps have one channel (per pair) already inverted by design. To bridge these amps, you simply use the two wires that are "hot" with respect to power supply ground. Since the polarity is inverted on one channel, the "hot" wire will actually be a negative speaker output. So, in stereo operation, these "hot" wires will be a positive from one channel and a negative from the other channel. No switches are necessary.
- The other bridgeable amps have switches to invert the signal before it is amplified. Too bridge these amps, you use the two (+) wires from the channels being bridged.
- An amp that doesn't have either of these features isn't bridgeable without external components.
So... it appears that the black (negative) speaker wires in your photo are connected to the same point. That would indicate that the (+) wires are "hot" and it would require the switch to invert phase on one side, so that (+) output could be used as a (-) output.
Unless, of course, the wire colors were confused when they were replaced.
You can verify the connection visually, or with a DMM set to measure resistance or continuity. If half of the speaker (+) outputs are connected to the other channels' (-) outputs, the switches aren't for bridging.
A few amps have internal switches for low-impedance operation, but the switches would be labeled as 4ohm-2-ohm, not on-off.
That was a long repsonse to simply say:
Other than in the low-impedance case, an incorrect switch position wouldn't damage the amp. But it wouldn't sound too good.
ok i think i got what ur saying now. so if channels a and b are the 4x35 and i want to bridge them do i set both A and B switch to on, or just one. how will i tell once bridged what is positive and neg for the 2 positives. lastly do i need to hook up both left and right inputs for channels A and B for the bridge?
Thanks once again
Fellow Smith
Thanks once again
Fellow Smith
You must be my city cousin!
Both A & B switches on.
The left channel is typically inverted for (-), but you won't know for sure. Just do the same thing for A & B channels and if it sounds like there is a phase issue between the front and rears, reverse the connections. You may not be able to tell much of a difference either way -whatever sounds best to you is right.
Yes, use a Y-connector to connect the R & L inputs together for each channel.
Both A & B switches on.
The left channel is typically inverted for (-), but you won't know for sure. Just do the same thing for A & B channels and if it sounds like there is a phase issue between the front and rears, reverse the connections. You may not be able to tell much of a difference either way -whatever sounds best to you is right.
Yes, use a Y-connector to connect the R & L inputs together for each channel.
So some new progress on the amp. I found out through trial and error (more trial than anything) that it has gain control. There are some through holes on the top of the heatsink that run to some tiny pots. the neat thing is all 6 channels have there own. In the pic you can see them just a little on the left hand side
Test bench for now. I need a new deck still so i dont want to install it and the crossover till then. otherwise i have to bust out the tools and go to my dad's twice. Going to be making a new box for my sub, a board to mount amps to, etc etc. Total overhaul of the system. Will take lots of pics
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