2 ported or 4 sealed? in a car

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solo means "one: baric means "half" they require 1/2 the air space in sealed encosure. Dude, go two with about 1 quebe of air space, put the appropriate power, and add a back up battery in the rear or as close the amp. with fuse protection. 1/2 price, twice as loud, and forget about the betery, you have plenty. Go sealed, small cab, box is not in thrunk, prob inder bed, its cheaper and you can allways go vented,ported later, that way there is NO discussion with the wife.
 
It wouldn't be that expensive to get drivers that are better for sealed apps, and take 600W each or near it.

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my idea is that is it possible to design a smaller box that is comprable to the estimated performance of the large box?

Not without either losing the low end, or bumping up your power needs significantly.

Why not scale down? Seems like the easiest solution...
 
Solo-Baric L7 Subwoofer Owner’s Manual

Sealed Enclosure Applications

The Solo-Baric generates more sound pressure than an equivalently-sized round speaker and excels when used in the recommended sealed boxes. These sealed enclosure designs give the smoothest response with increased energy at the lowest frequencies, 20 to 30Hz. These designs deliver massive
amounts of highly-accurate bass and can be driven with punishing levels of amplifier power. The Solo-Baric high performance suspension system can operate in a larger sealed enclosure. This maximum enclosure volume application is ideal for SQ (ultra sound quality) installations. The SQ
enclosure generates a very flat response curve and superbly extends the subbass response. Solo-Baric woofers perform well in any size sealed enclosure between the Compact and SQ volume recommendations. These systems will exhibit benefits of both designs: Compact produces high-impact
bass, and SQ generates low bass frequency protraction. Overall, the system will sound more like the recommended enclosure design it is closest to in enclosure volume. These enclosure recommendations have been calculated with the airspace inside the enclosure and include the displacement of the woofer. All sealed-enclosure airspace should be filled to 50% loose poly-fil (polyester fiberfill) stuffing. Do not make the airspace greater than the SQ, maximum enclosure volume, recommendation.

Model:
S8L7
S10L7
S12L7
S15L7

Sealed SQ (Maximum Enclosure Volume)

.75 ft3 (21.24L) Power Handling = 200W RMS
1.0 ft3 (28.32L) Power Handling = 600W RMS
2.0 ft3 (56.64L) Power Handling = 750W RMS
6.0 ft3 (169.9L) Power Handling = 1000W RMS

Sealed Compact (Minimum Enclosure Volume)

.33 ft3 (9.34L) Power Handling = 200W RMS
.66 ft3 (18.69L) Power Handling = 600W RMS
.88 ft3 (24.92L) Power Handling = 750W RMS
1.5 ft3 (42.48L) Power Handling = 1000W RMS
 
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Vented Enclosure Applications

Ported Solo-Barics? Absolutely...and with a vengeance! These enclosures incorporate massive slotloaded (rectangular) ports with ultra low air velocity for ground pounding street bass that will make your “skin bounce on your bones!” These boxes are the enclosure of choice for outrageous street bass and high performance SPL contests. If space is not a problem and you want to get the most from your Solo-Baric, try one of these ported designs. You will not be disappointed. The ported Compact design increases bass efficiency and fits in many space-limited applications. Although it is the smallest recommended ported enclosure, the output from 30 to 80 Hz will be
considerably higher than that of any sealed box. The SPL / Deep Bass ported design has even more output in this crucial frequency band. The SPL / Deep Bass is the largest and most efficient enclosure design. The SPL / Deep Bass delivers the sonic output needed to win SPL contests and it produces bass notes “all the way down to the cella”. This design turns heads and jump starts your heart.

A Note on Power Handling Capacity

Solo-Baric subwoofers will handle massive amounts of power in any of the recommended enclosures, minimum or maximum. The smaller enclosures are best for use in limited-space applications. The larger recommended enclosures will yield slightly more bass at the lowest frequencies.
The listed Power Handling capacities assume that both voice coils are in use.
Always connect both coils in a dual voice-coil speaker.

Model:
S8L7
S10L7
S12L7
S15L7

Vented SPL/DeepBass (Maximum Enclosure Volume)

1.0 ft3 (28.3L) + port displacement
2 x 9.5” (5.1x24cm) port, 21.25” (54cm) long
Power Handling = 375W RMS
2.25 ft3 (63.7L) + port displacement
3 x 11.25” (7.6x29cm) port, 18” (46cm) long
Power Handling = 450W RMS
3.25 ft3 (92L) + port displacement
3 x 13.25” (7.6x34cm) port, 14.5” (37cm) long
Power Handling = 600W RMS

6.0 ft3 (170L) + port displacement
3.5 x 16.25” (8.9x41cm) port, 13.75” (35cm) long
Power Handling = 750W RMS

Vented Compact (Minimum Enclosure Volume)

.66ft3 (18.7L) + port displacement
1.5 x 9.5” (3.8x24cm) port, 19.25” (49cm) long
Power Handling = 375W RMS
1.25 ft3 (35.4L) + port displacement
2.5 x 11.25” (6.4x29cm) port, 19.75” (50cm) long
Power Handling = 450W RMS
1.75 ft3 (49.6L) + port displacement
2.5 x 13.25” (6.4x34cm) port, 22.5” (57cm) long
Power Handling = 600W RMS

3.0 ft3 (85L) + port displacement
2.5 x 16.25” (6.4x41cm) port, 19.5” (50cm) long
Power Handling = 750W RMS
 
solo means "one: baric means "half"

"Baric" means related to pressure. 1 bar = approx. 1 atmosphere at seal level.

Solobaric doesn't have a valid literal translation in this context.

Kicker introduced the solobaric line when isobaric systems began gaining popularity.

Isobaric means "constant pressure", referering to the air enclosed between the two moving cones.

Solobaric was their catchy name to capitalize on the popular (and slightly exotic) isobaric system, and the name suggested you could make an isobaric system with only one of these drivers. Which you can't.

Obviously, I never got over that :dodgy:.
 
thanks BP1 for all this info but they both seem like sales pitches for these speakers. from what info i have gathered it seems that these wont work well in a sealed box and i think i should stick to a ported box.

the spec that makes the most amount of sense is....
6.0 ft3 (170L) + port displacement
3.5 x 16.25” (8.9x41cm) port, 13.75” (35cm) long
Power Handling = 750W RMS
box size determines max power i can use? is that right? the reason i ask is because i bought these speakers blown up and i have put new coils in them. when i reassembled the speaker i just machined pieces of steel that hold the surround and the spider in place. so if i blow the coils again i can easily pop new ones in. so want to drive these speakers as hard as i can because i really dont have much to lose. i have 1200 watt for each speaker and i have 4 of these amps. so why not drive them with as much power as possible? (this is a serious question)

my question is, if my options are between

3.25 ft3 (92L) + port displacement
3 x 13.25” (7.6x34cm) port, 14.5” (37cm) long
Power Handling = 600W RMS

OR ...

6.0 ft3 (170L) + port displacement
3.5 x 16.25” (8.9x41cm) port, 13.75” (35cm) long
Power Handling = 750W RMS

then what will be my trade off? because this is my exact question which i started with. because i have space and power to drive 4 of the first box or 2 of the second box.

i gotta say, glowbug you have really raised one of my eyebrows at that link you sent of those 4 speakers. i will definatly be considering them for the next upgrade. for now however i need to stick with the equipment that i have on hand and try to make something work.
 
thanks BP1 for all this info but they both seem like sales pitches for these speakers. from what info i have gathered it seems that these wont work well in a sealed box and i think i should stick to a ported box.

the spec that makes the most amount of sense is....
6.0 ft3 (170L) + port displacement
3.5 x 16.25” (8.9x41cm) port, 13.75” (35cm) long
Power Handling = 750W RMS
box size determines max power i can use? is that right? the reason i ask is because i bought these speakers blown up and i have put new coils in them. when i reassembled the speaker i just machined pieces of steel that hold the surround and the spider in place. so if i blow the coils again i can easily pop new ones in. so want to drive these speakers as hard as i can because i really dont have much to lose. i have 1200 watt for each speaker and i have 4 of these amps. so why not drive them with as much power as possible? (this is a serious question)

my question is, if my options are between

3.25 ft3 (92L) + port displacement
3 x 13.25” (7.6x34cm) port, 14.5” (37cm) long
Power Handling = 600W RMS

OR ...

6.0 ft3 (170L) + port displacement
3.5 x 16.25” (8.9x41cm) port, 13.75” (35cm) long
Power Handling = 750W RMS

then what will be my trade off? because this is my exact question which i started with. because i have space and power to drive 4 of the first box or 2 of the second box.

i gotta say, glowbug you have really raised one of my eyebrows at that link you sent of those 4 speakers. i will definatly be considering them for the next upgrade. for now however i need to stick with the equipment that i have on hand and try to make something work.
No problem! The "6.0 ft3 (170L) + port displacement 3.5 x 16.25” (8.9x41cm) port, 13.75” (35cm) long Power Handling = 750W RMS" is for the 15! That's why I put the 12" specs in bold and underlined them.
 
That's why I put the 12" specs in bold and underlined them.
I'm sorry but having seen this i really must ask :D

What are the driver specifications?

For a good while i have been looking about at lots of car subwoofers simply because the boys want high SPL. Most manufacturers don't list such things as QTS,QMS,QES etc etc but they might state some ridiculous Xmax.

Having purchased an un-named driver & received a nice spec sheet with the thing i doubt it'll come as much of a surprise that the measured QTS of the driver (admittedly not broken in) was 0.89 when the quoted QTS was under 0.39.

Yes it may well alter given a week of a decent amount of power as FS with adjustments as the resonance drops, but what i'm getting at is where are the "REAL" driver specifications other than someone saying "it'll work well in box size X"?

Work well for who? For you?

If i'm designing for a flat response & high excursion in a "hifi" system i need more than "it'll work ok in this box be it sealed or ported"....

Specs please :)

E2A:- Someone mentioned RE Audio drivers, if there specifications are accurate then even the cheap RE 8/10/12 D4 speakers are seriously good value for money :D Why can't other car sub manufacturers quote specs?
 
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that seems very valid considering that i have changed the coils in these speakers. can anyone link me to a webpage instructing me how to measure these things? if i learn how to do it on one speaker is it the same for all speakers (even midrange)?
I'm asuming you mean how to measure driver specs?

If you weren't addressing me i apologise ;)

Look for a book by radio shack, can't remember the name but it is to do with designing & building loudspeakers. Red cover from what i can remember with a kind of cartoon pic of a speaker assembly on the front :rofl:

It'll instruct you on how to measure just about every driver parameter you need to know, frequency doesn't really matter - same theory & practise applies to midrange drivers & tweeters.

All you'll need is a function generator, a precision resistor & a voltmeter. With those you can measure damn near every driver parameter. If i can find this book (which is in bits i might add) i'll let you know the proper title :)
 
Look for a book by radio shack, can't remember the name but it is to do with designing & building loudspeakers. Red cover from what i can remember with a kind of cartoon pic of a speaker assembly on the front :rofl:

Or The Loudspeaker Design Cookbook by Vance Dickason, or for the quick route buy the woofer tester ($99?) from partsexpress.com
 

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I'm sorry but having seen this i really must ask :D

What are the driver specifications?

For a good while i have been looking about at lots of car subwoofers simply because the boys want high SPL. Most manufacturers don't list such things as QTS,QMS,QES etc etc but they might state some ridiculous Xmax.

Having purchased an un-named driver & received a nice spec sheet with the thing i doubt it'll come as much of a surprise that the measured QTS of the driver (admittedly not broken in) was 0.89 when the quoted QTS was under 0.39.

Yes it may well alter given a week of a decent amount of power as FS with adjustments as the resonance drops, but what i'm getting at is where are the "REAL" driver specifications other than someone saying "it'll work well in box size X"?

Work well for who? For you?

If i'm designing for a flat response & high excursion in a "hifi" system i need more than "it'll work ok in this box be it sealed or ported"....

Specs please :)

E2A:- Someone mentioned RE Audio drivers, if there specifications are accurate then even the cheap RE 8/10/12 D4 speakers are seriously good value for money :D Why can't other car sub manufacturers quote specs?
http://kicker.com/sites/default/files/L7_0.pdf

Model: 08S12L72 Averaged 08S12L74 Averaged
Norm Imp 4.00 8.00
SPL 87.27 87.47
Lem 3.825 5.420
Reve 3.86 6.77
Sd 0.0645 0.0645
BL 20.06 25.44
Vas 45.55 45.46
Mms 264.98 247.53
Fs 34.93 31.55
Qms 6.258 5.744
Qes 0.504 0.586
Qts 0.511 0.532

Model: 08S15L72 Averaged 08S15L74 Averaged
Norm Imp 4.00 8.00
SPL 89.28 89.43
Lem 4.085 6.284
Reve 3.69 7.10
Sd 0.1056 0.1056
BL 21.10 27.90
Vas 156.56 165.66
Mms 374.43 351.15
Fs 26.2 26.28
Qms 7.489 6.579
Qes 0.511 0.529
Qts 0.478 0.490

Model: 06S15L72 06S12L72 06S10L72 06S8L72
Nominal Impedance(Ohms): D2 D2 D2 D2
SPL dB 1W/1M: 89 88.6 86.1 83.4
Displacement, cc: 4530 2475 1830 980
Displacement, cu.in.: 276.5 151 111.8 59.8
Hole cutout, in dia: 14 1/16 11 3/16 9 1/2 7 5/8
Mounting Depth, in: 8 1/2 6 11/16 6 3/16 4 11/16
Revc: 3.56 3.73 3.645 3.305
VC Inductance, mH: 3.98 3.81 3.089 2.77
Sd, m3: 0.1056 0.0645 0.0439 0.0273
BL: 21.395 17.93 17.16 14.29
Vas, Liters: 179.3 65.55 34.3 10.075
Vas, CuFt: 6.33 2.31 1.21 0.36
Moving Mass , oz.: 12.73 6.97 6.13 4.83
Fs: 24.2 33.1 33.1 44.1
Qms: 6.8965 6.191 6.239 7.064
Qes: 0.4515 0.503 0.4745 0.614
Qts: 0.424 0.465 0.441 0.5645
Peak Power Handling, watts: 2000 1500 1200 900
EXmax, mm: 16.1 14.1 13.9 12.2
 
Or The Loudspeaker Design Cookbook by Vance Dickason
That's the one ;) It looks in vastly better condition than my copy!
A lot of the time i can't find any, in fact that may well be the first time i have seen specs for Kicker drivers :D
The good ones do ;)
Yes, i tend to agree - they also tend to be pretty accurate or at least in the ball park.
Quoting specs is one thing.

Quoting accurate specs is another.

Time for sub manufacturers to supply "birth specs" with their subs... :)
& there i rest my case!

Ok, it doesn't matter too much in my case as i'll be using these drivers i have in a sealed enclosure. The resulting peak can be taken care of with some simple electronics like a Linkwitz-Riley network.

If i'd have wanted them to work in a reflex going on the so called manufacturers specs it'd be a nightmare :eek: :smash:
 
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