blown two zx 700.5s and two deq 9200a - Page 3

Perry Babin · 28th October 2009, 05:51 PM

Clamp everything to the heatsink and insert a 10-15 amp fuse in the B+ line before applying power.

If I'm not mistaken, there are two screws in the board that had lockwashers. One is near the B+/ground terminal block. The other is near the small daughterboard. Reinstall both of them with their washers.

rolexcomm · 28th October 2009, 06:56 PM

No, No lockwashers that I see. It has clips in the center that don't even let the screws bottom out. I am just noticing something, I have my transistors here and two of the IRF 9640 are marked IRF 640. I am sure this passed me over seeing the 640 termination and I bought and installed all IRF 9640. Is this an error on my part or is this an error on kicker. If it is my error in which positions should it use the IRF 640?

Next area, No power up as of yet. The center leg on the 3205 has B+ but no signal on the other two pins.

Perry Babin · 28th October 2009, 07:16 PM

If it has 6 outputs for the class D section, 4 are likely 9640s and the other two 640s. The 3rd leg of all of the 9640s will be directly connected (0 ohms) and the 3rd leg of the 640s will be directly connected.

rolexcomm · 28th October 2009, 08:30 PM

ok, got that taken care of..... what you think, throw it in the trash or is it fixable

Perry Babin · 28th October 2009, 10:06 PM

Unless the board is burned beyond repair, it's repairable.

rolexcomm · 28th October 2009, 10:18 PM

the board itself looks good. But no rail voltages yet. Everything is replaced. what do you want me to check next?

Perry Babin · 28th October 2009, 10:19 PM

Did you power it up?

rolexcomm · 28th October 2009, 10:30 PM

yes i did. Same as before. Still have 7v on the rcas and 7v on the speaker output and on the kd718 I only get 7v too.

Perry Babin · 28th October 2009, 10:36 PM

If you insert a 10 amp fuse in the B+ line, does it blow the fuse when you power it up (including remote)?

rolexcomm · 28th October 2009, 10:42 PM

No sir, doesn't even blow a 7.5 amp fuse.

28th October 2009, 05:51 PM	#21
Perry Babin diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Louisiana	Clamp everything to the heatsink and insert a 10-15 amp fuse in the B+ line before applying power. If I'm not mistaken, there are two screws in the board that had lockwashers. One is near the B+/ground terminal block. The other is near the small daughterboard. Reinstall both of them with their washers. __________________ Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links

28th October 2009, 07:16 PM	#23
Perry Babin diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Louisiana	If it has 6 outputs for the class D section, 4 are likely 9640s and the other two 640s. The 3rd leg of all of the 9640s will be directly connected (0 ohms) and the 3rd leg of the 640s will be directly connected. __________________ Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links

28th October 2009, 10:06 PM	#25
Perry Babin diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Louisiana	Unless the board is burned beyond repair, it's repairable. __________________ Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links

28th October 2009, 10:19 PM	#27
Perry Babin diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Louisiana	Did you power it up? __________________ Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links

28th October 2009, 10:36 PM	#29
Perry Babin diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Louisiana	If you insert a 10 amp fuse in the B+ line, does it blow the fuse when you power it up (including remote)? __________________ Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links


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28th October 2009, 06:56 PM	#22
rolexcomm diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Where there are too many latin babes!!	No, No lockwashers that I see. It has clips in the center that don't even let the screws bottom out. I am just noticing something, I have my transistors here and two of the IRF 9640 are marked IRF 640. I am sure this passed me over seeing the 640 termination and I bought and installed all IRF 9640. Is this an error on my part or is this an error on kicker. If it is my error in which positions should it use the IRF 640? Next area, No power up as of yet. The center leg on the 3205 has B+ but no signal on the other two pins.

28th October 2009, 08:30 PM	#24
rolexcomm diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Where there are too many latin babes!!	ok, got that taken care of..... what you think, throw it in the trash or is it fixable

28th October 2009, 10:18 PM	#26
rolexcomm diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Where there are too many latin babes!!	the board itself looks good. But no rail voltages yet. Everything is replaced. what do you want me to check next?

28th October 2009, 10:30 PM	#28
rolexcomm diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Where there are too many latin babes!!	yes i did. Same as before. Still have 7v on the rcas and 7v on the speaker output and on the kd718 I only get 7v too.

28th October 2009, 10:42 PM	#30
rolexcomm diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Where there are too many latin babes!!	No sir, doesn't even blow a 7.5 amp fuse.

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