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Old 27th May 2003, 04:21 AM   #11
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I've got 5 of national's switching reg with sunc which could probly do about 20-25 amps but I'm not sure if that would be enough.
Theres a design here about adding a bipolar transister to boost a little switching reg up to 6 amps, If I replaced the 6 amp transister with a 35 amp one (2m max switching frequency, should be enough) and sync maybe 2 or 3 together would that fix my problem?
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Old 1st June 2003, 02:16 PM   #12
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Default 2kW Switcher

Hey dkemppai,

what controller chip did you ise? Toroid core? Switching frequency? output voltage(s)? (I like that big honkin' toroid!)

I built a 350W switcher based in Randy Vikan's car power supply fron 4/89 and 1/90 Audio Amateur. It's based on the SG3525AN PWM chip and uses IRF540s and MBR10100s. ll caps are the old Panasonic HF (superseded be theFC-series) or TSNA types. Outputs are +/-37V and +/- 45V (unloaded). Haven't loaded it down too much, but it will push an 8-ohm amp at 75W, so far......
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Old 1st June 2003, 04:44 PM   #13
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Default Re: Re: note the liberal use of hot-melt adhesive!

Quote:
Originally posted by dkemppai
Problem with H-bridge is that you have two pairs of switching devices in series with each other, on each side of the transformer. Therefore conduction losses double, so it's not as efficient. H-Bridge is great at high input voltages, where currents are small, and conduction losses are minimal.
It also depends upon what powers you're talking about. At 1kW+ I feel better with a bridge, even with a 12V input.
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Old 2nd June 2003, 06:56 PM   #14
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Default Re: 2kW Switcher

Quote:
Originally posted by N-Channel
Hey dkemppai,

what controller chip did you ise? Toroid core? Switching frequency? output voltage(s)? (I like that big honkin' toroid!)

I built a 350W switcher based in Randy Vikan's car power supply fron 4/89 and 1/90 Audio Amateur. It's based on the SG3525AN PWM chip and uses IRF540s and MBR10100s. ll caps are the old Panasonic HF (superseded be theFC-series) or TSNA types. Outputs are +/-37V and +/- 45V (unloaded). Haven't loaded it down too much, but it will push an 8-ohm amp at 75W, so far......
LM3524D, +-65 VDC regulated outputs. Switching frequency About 45 Khz. Input caps are paralleled 3300uF FC series Panasonics, output are snap-cap type 8200uF 80 Volt TUP Pans also. Switching Fets are IRF1010N's with several in parallel.

The big toroid was a find. P Type Magnetics, I can get the exact part number later. I managed to get my hands on 18 of them in the last few years... ...normally not cheap (Ebay is great!) WaAc is massive. Second largest toroid they make.

At 1500 Everything runs ICE cold. No heat at all. If I were to do it again (and I probably will), I'd downsize a bunch of the components. It was my first attempt at a large PS, and I'll do a bunch of things differently the next time.

-Dan
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Old 2nd June 2003, 10:10 PM   #15
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Default 2 kW

Dan,


No way, dude! Keep it cool! Since you're not putting it into mass-production, don't worry too much about down-sizing. Probably put it on a PC board with seriously beefed-up traces where appropriate, but don't downsize the MOSFETs. Those 100A FETs are just the ticket! Too bad ON doesn't make them anymore!

'73,

Steve
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Old 3rd June 2003, 06:57 AM   #16
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Just a general switcher question... Should the ground on the secondary side of the transformer be connected to the primary ground?
I think this may have been the problem with alternator hum with my last car amp.
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Old 3rd June 2003, 10:05 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally posted by fr0st
Just a general switcher question... Should the ground on the secondary side of the transformer be connected to the primary ground?
I think this may have been the problem with alternator hum with my last car amp.
No

The whine you are getting with the alternator can be eliminated with a filter. Remember that the leads from the battery to the switching power supply must be filtered (with a choke) , as well as the leads to the amplifier.
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Old 3rd June 2003, 11:18 AM   #18
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Quote:
No

The whine you are getting with the alternator can be eliminated with a filter. Remember that the leads from the battery to the switching power supply must be filtered (with a choke) , as well as the leads to the amplifier.
Another forum member surgested that having inputs chokes would be a bad idea since they increase transients and that the switcher should get rid of any alternator hum on its own.
opinions?
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Old 3rd June 2003, 12:04 PM   #19
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If I may offer some advice on grounding in a automotive environment:

1/ Star ground all connections to a clean (bare metal) spot on the chassis

2/Make sure the alternator housing is grounded also {min 8Ga) the moter is on rubber mounts and the 10GA ground wire on the ourput connector does not cut it

3/Replace the Battery ground if it looks bad or is atleast 4GA or thicker

4/route power and signal wires on oppisite sides of the car if the amplifier is mounted in the back....if going through the firewall place a grommet in the hole (you`ll thank me later)

5/use atleast 8GA (I prefer 4GA) for all power and ground connections and make sure the battery is fused RIGHT at the battery, secondary fuses can be added to each indivual unit


thats a general rule of thumb that I have used building competition systems in the past and if the amplifier does not have a input filter then I suggest installing one right at the amplifier.

Cheers!!The DIRT®
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Old 3rd June 2003, 12:04 PM   #20
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Default Re: Re: 2kW Switcher

Quote:
Originally posted by dkemppai


The big toroid was a find. P Type Magnetics, I can get the exact part number later. I managed to get my hands on 18 of them in the last few years... ...normally not cheap (Ebay is great!) WaAc is massive. Second largest toroid they make.

-Dan
Dan,
How do you select a toroid for 50Khz operation,What permiability should one select for optimal results?

Thanks.
Yuval.
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