Last summer i put speakers in my car but it just isnt 100% yet. it all works but i think the sub may want a different lover(amp). u can see it at my website HERE or u can see the attatched picture to get the idea.
as u can see the car is huge and metal so cabin issues are weird. especially because the trunk is humongous. I also dont feel like the amp for the rear speakers are doing them any good.
ANY ADVICE WOULD BE HELPFULL but keep in mind i dont have much money to spend on this.....the one thing i do have is time.
as u can see the car is huge and metal so cabin issues are weird. especially because the trunk is humongous. I also dont feel like the amp for the rear speakers are doing them any good.
ANY ADVICE WOULD BE HELPFULL but keep in mind i dont have much money to spend on this.....the one thing i do have is time.
Attachments
Placement of sub
Hi Joywrex,
What exactly do you feel you are missing sonically? If it's bass you might want to take into account the amount of car the bass from that sub has to travel through to get into the cabin - the better the car the more likely you are to find there's a lot of stuff in the way.
Just a quick extreme example - my boss's 328i BMW has only slightly more kick from a 12" monster in the boot when compared to 2 6"ers built into 15 litre sealed units under my front seats. Considering his sub & amp cost 8 times more than mine I'm pretty happy with it.
Cheers
Paul
Hi Joywrex,
What exactly do you feel you are missing sonically? If it's bass you might want to take into account the amount of car the bass from that sub has to travel through to get into the cabin - the better the car the more likely you are to find there's a lot of stuff in the way.
Just a quick extreme example - my boss's 328i BMW has only slightly more kick from a 12" monster in the boot when compared to 2 6"ers built into 15 litre sealed units under my front seats. Considering his sub & amp cost 8 times more than mine I'm pretty happy with it.
Cheers
Paul
a few observations if I may......
Tiny speakers up front and big amp'd speakers in back make most of the sound come from behind you- rarely an enjoyable listening experience (for me at least). It's one of the reasons I never much cared for rear fill. Also, most head units can't compete with even inexpensive amplifiers. Your fronts will probably distort well before the rears depending on how your gains are adjusted.
Are all of the speakers crossed over at proper frequencies?
Are you able to attenuate the front/rear/sub independently to achieve any sort of balance?
You have enough components, it may just need to be tuned.
Best results I've seen involve getting as much of the midbase up front as possible. Since the sub is more or less omni-directional it'll give the sense that ALL of the base is up front, where you want it. Usually this means larger cones up front, at least 6 1/2", and an amp that can drive them. Since you have an amp already, you may want to ditch the rear fill and run it to your front doors then adjust the gains on the front/sub amps to get the proper balance.
If you want more punch out of the sub fiddle with the gain/x-over frequency. You can get away with higher cut-offs and less gain IF you've got strong midbass up front to support it.
Good luck.
Tiny speakers up front and big amp'd speakers in back make most of the sound come from behind you- rarely an enjoyable listening experience (for me at least). It's one of the reasons I never much cared for rear fill. Also, most head units can't compete with even inexpensive amplifiers. Your fronts will probably distort well before the rears depending on how your gains are adjusted.
Are all of the speakers crossed over at proper frequencies?
Are you able to attenuate the front/rear/sub independently to achieve any sort of balance?
You have enough components, it may just need to be tuned.
Best results I've seen involve getting as much of the midbase up front as possible. Since the sub is more or less omni-directional it'll give the sense that ALL of the base is up front, where you want it. Usually this means larger cones up front, at least 6 1/2", and an amp that can drive them. Since you have an amp already, you may want to ditch the rear fill and run it to your front doors then adjust the gains on the front/sub amps to get the proper balance.
If you want more punch out of the sub fiddle with the gain/x-over frequency. You can get away with higher cut-offs and less gain IF you've got strong midbass up front to support it.
Good luck.
I agree with Toenail
In that you need to get more speaker up front and less in back. Sure it can be loud the way it is, but it will have no image or soundstage at all - no SQ. For example, I run a 200 watt a side amp for my fronts, but let the wimpy 12 watts in my Kenwood headunit run the rears - and most of the time have them faded out anyhow.
With that car, you can put everything you need up front without problem. A three way would not be hard - tweets, 3" mids and 6.5 or even 8" woofers. (I had a 69 Delta 88 that was about that size and did it). Since you already have the first two speakers in the Infinity units, you only need the 8" drivers. This does not have to be expensive. Parts Express is your friend. A quick glance shows a Pioner 8" poly for 25 each. Uses a .55 box. Use your LA amp for the 8", and find a decent 25 watt amp for the Infintys (you don't need much power for these).
You will need to cross them over, so my suggestion would be to get an electronic crossover like the Pyle three way. Its about 25 or 50 for the upgraded model. Then buy an EQ. I like parametrics for cars since they give you so much shaping control - unlike your house, it hard to move things around to get rid of peaks and dropouts, so you need the electronics.
Just let the 6/9's run off the headunit - if you get the fronts right, you will not want to hear them anyhow.
So for a $100 you would get a great improvement on sound.
In that you need to get more speaker up front and less in back. Sure it can be loud the way it is, but it will have no image or soundstage at all - no SQ. For example, I run a 200 watt a side amp for my fronts, but let the wimpy 12 watts in my Kenwood headunit run the rears - and most of the time have them faded out anyhow.
With that car, you can put everything you need up front without problem. A three way would not be hard - tweets, 3" mids and 6.5 or even 8" woofers. (I had a 69 Delta 88 that was about that size and did it). Since you already have the first two speakers in the Infinity units, you only need the 8" drivers. This does not have to be expensive. Parts Express is your friend. A quick glance shows a Pioner 8" poly for 25 each. Uses a .55 box. Use your LA amp for the 8", and find a decent 25 watt amp for the Infintys (you don't need much power for these).
You will need to cross them over, so my suggestion would be to get an electronic crossover like the Pyle three way. Its about 25 or 50 for the upgraded model. Then buy an EQ. I like parametrics for cars since they give you so much shaping control - unlike your house, it hard to move things around to get rid of peaks and dropouts, so you need the electronics.
Just let the 6/9's run off the headunit - if you get the fronts right, you will not want to hear them anyhow.
So for a $100 you would get a great improvement on sound.
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