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#161 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
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Yes
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#162 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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Since the problem seems to be intermittent, I'd suggest that you power it up (including remote) via a 10-15 amp fuse. Then try pushing on various points on the board and moving various components to see if you can get it to blow the fuse.
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#163 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
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Perry,
I have it working now. I have tried pushing and moving all the different components on the board to see what will cause this to blow a fuse. Nothing makes it blow. I did notice that almost every time I turn the remote off a blow a 10 amp fuse on the B+. What would cause this? Thank you, Sean |
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#164 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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There's no common problem (as far as I know) that would cause that. It may require using a digital scope to capture the event causing it to blow fuses.
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#165 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
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Perry,
It sounds like there is nothing I can do, right? Should I try to find a shop to fix this for me? Thanks, Sean |
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#166 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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At this point, I've run out of ideas. The problem isn't a static fault that can be found through troubleshooting.
If you can find a local shop, that may be your best option.
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#167 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
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Perry,
Because I’m not the type of person to be defeated I tied a few more things out. I replaced the 10 amp fuse with a 15 amp and it dose not blow, even when the remote is turned off. I put everything back together and it works perfect! I am going to leave a 15 amp fuse in for a while I begin to build confidence in my amp again. Should I be worried about any system damage? When we first started this journey you had mentioned to replace all the 3205s even if they are not bad. I believe this is for reliability purposes. How critical is this? Will it make a big difference? As I was reinstalling my system I noticed a few things that might have caused this problem. My amps are on springs, so when hit a bump it helps to absorb some of the impact. The wires (RCAs, power & ground, speaker, & remote) run threw a hole on an amp rack. This hole is right underneath those 2 large caps. I don’t think those caps are bad but, the wires hitting the under plate and the under plate was hitting the caps and this was causing some pressure on the board that caused a short. I think all this was happening when it was trying to absorb bumps in the road. This is my best guess, if it makes since. To hopefully fix this I have relocated the wires and bent the under plate to allow more room and no pressure is on the board now. I have attached a picture of my system so you can kind of tell what I’m trying say. As you can see car audio is a major passion of mine and I have worked for many years to build this system. I can’t thank you enough for your time! Without your help and patience I would not be any were close to were I am now in the fixing process. I hope this did fix it but only time will tell. I will keep you posted. Thank you very much, Sean |
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